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My M1009 IS HERE! Pictures and video!

linx310

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Well my M1009 arrived today. After waiting over 100 days for my EUC to clear it is a welcome site!

When the transport company picked it up they called and told me the truck would not start but the engine does turn.

So much for the “starts and runs” description from Government Liquidation.

Well when the truck arrived we had to push it since the truck would not start, lets just say that was no easy task.

My initial inspection of the truck was that it was in better shape then I thought. No major dents, drive shafts look straight, tires are decent, and no broken windows.

Taking a closer look the truck has lots of new parts. The engine has 2 brand new 6TMF batteries, 2 new alternators, a new fuel filter, and pvc valve labeled 6/1/2009.

Under the vehicle the transmission looks like it could have just been rebuilt, and the engine has a brand new fram oil filter installed.

I checked the engine oil and it looks almost new, I am going to change it any way though.

The interior is in decent shape, a few small tears on the front seat, and a couple of cracks in the top part of the dash. Overall I think I lucked out on that part, most of the ones I have seen look horrible. The interior is covered in a fine sand. So much that when I opened the sun visor sand came out!

The back seat looks like it has most of the lines to hook up the radio. Probably going to keep it in place.

The bed and tail gate are in excellent shape. No real rust on the tail gate at all! Sadly I did not get the jack that comes with those tools.

Now for the bad stuff.

I have a hole in the front passenger floor board. Luckily it is in an area that is easy to cut out and replace. Other than this one area, there are really no major rust problems any place else. For some reason they did not remove the rubber mat from this area, which from what I understand, there was a service order to pull up because it traps water.

The truck would not start (more on this later).

The headlights, blinkers, and brake lights do not work. This could be related to the mods done to the fuse box I noticed.

Someone didn’t fully reassemble part of the dash after adding a volt meter.

The truck needs an alignment. This isn’t really a big issue, it’s just weird having the steering wheel 90 degrees from where it should be.

Missing shackles and pintel. And it looks like a fork lift bent the cable cover on the rear bumper.

The truck came with unit markings and most of the factory stickers still in place.
Any one know what units or these markings mean (pics below)
Right Front: FP202 (has a ST painted over the FP)
Left Front: 189IN BDE
Left Rear Tailgate: 189IN BDE
Right Rear Tailgate: 1 ST spray painted over FP202
Right Rear Bumper: ECS 27B-45
Glove Compartment: NF0499 (I think this is the reg. number)
Under hood: Winterized Blue -35
Hood: LSB 313

Also I am not sure what was mounted in the back right corner of the vehicle. Was it some kind of speaker?

Ok back to the no start issue.

I was trying to figure out why it would not start. I noticed the wait light was not coming on so I started checking out the glow plug system. I noticed It was not coming on. I checked the glow plug controller card and someone had removed it and inserted it backwards. I am not sure why someone would have done that, Government Liquidation didn’t seem to know about it because they would have fixed it to get it on the truck.

Overall I am very happy with the truck. I will post more as I restore it.

Click here for a quick overview video
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46M3Jaf9GfY[/media]
 

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67_C-30

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Sweet Home Alabama!
Just watched your video, and you said you had no lights. Mine was in blackout mode when I got it from GL, and my lights wouldn't work either until I turned the service lights back on. Also check your front hubs. Mine were locked in, even though the transfer case was in two wheel drive.
 

67_C-30

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Sweet Home Alabama!
Oh, that's for the dome light, at least it is on civilian blazer. I don't know if CUCV's had them installed from the factory, because none of the ones at Warner Robins where I got mine had them either.
 

linx310

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Just watched your video, and you said you had no lights. Mine was in blackout mode when I got it from GL, and my lights wouldn't work either until I turned the service lights back on. Also check your front hubs. Mine were locked in, even though the transfer case was in two wheel drive.
Yea I tried that, it was getting dark out so I am going to have to tackle the no lights issue tomorrow.

My hubs were locked in also. I unlocked them before taking it for a test drive.
 

wallew

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OK, first off, GREAT TRUCK!

Second. You don't need an 'alignment' unless the truck pulls to the left or right while you are driving. To correct your steering wheel problem, either purchase, borrow or rent a steering wheel puller. Park the vehicle with the front wheels as straight as you can get them. Set the parking brake. Chock the wheels so it doesn't roll AT ALL.

Pull the steering wheel off. Once it's off, then you can remount it in the correct position.

Can't say WHY the wheel would be that much off. Certainly doesn't make any sense. But you can fix it yourself, with a steering wheel puller and a set of socket wrenches. Takes about two hours and I'm REALLY slow.

You got a great example and it is going to be a great learning experience.
 
The splines on the inside of the steering wheel are made to engage with the steering shaft in only one position. If you look closely, you will see an area where there is a tooth missing, and also, the horn button only will go into the horn slot, so re-aligning the steering wheel should not be done by pulling it off and turning it.
The proper way to do it is to loosen the two bolt/nuts on the drag link, which is right behind your driver's side front wheel, and turning the adjuster sleeve to get the wheel where you want it. First you need to drive your truck a little to determine where exactly your steering is centered and note that as to the position of your steering wheel currently. You'll want to drive it on several different roads, and try and drive it down the center of the roads as much as possible, since the crown on the road will tend to make the truck pull towards the passenger side some, and thereby keeps you pulling the wheel towards the driver's side when you're driving in the correct lane.
Next, you will need to park the truck with the steering wheel in that position you noted it was in when the truck is travelling straight. Finally, loosen the two previously mentioned bolts and use a prybar to turn the adjustment sleeve on the drag link. You will need a mid-sized pipe wrench to hold the draglink against turning the adjuster sleeve. One can figure out by watching the wheel turn in response to turning the sleeve which way the sleeve needs to go in order to get the wheel centered. Make sure the keys are in the ignition and the steering wheel is unlocked, or you might break something in the column. It also will help to spray down the drag link's adjusting sleeve with some P-blaster or equivalent (old brake fluid also works well as a penetrating oil, but it has to be the non-silicone type).
Anyway, just thought I would save you some time and irritation. :confused:
 
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K9Vic

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Fort Worth, TX
OK, first off, GREAT TRUCK!

Second. You don't need an 'alignment' unless the truck pulls to the left or right while you are driving. To correct your steering wheel problem, either purchase, borrow or rent a steering wheel puller. Park the vehicle with the front wheels as straight as you can get them. Set the parking brake. Chock the wheels so it doesn't roll AT ALL.

Pull the steering wheel off. Once it's off, then you can remount it in the correct position.

Can't say WHY the wheel would be that much off. Certainly doesn't make any sense. But you can fix it yourself, with a steering wheel puller and a set of socket wrenches. Takes about two hours and I'm REALLY slow.

You got a great example and it is going to be a great learning experience.
Or just adjust the drag link until the wheel is straight, only takes a few minutes as long as the blots are not rusted. They probably replaced it and did not adjust the wheel after replacement. Find a large empty parking lot and drive the truck straight, stop without moving the wheel and then adjust the drag link to straighten the wheel.
 
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Or just adjust the drag link until the wheel is straight, only takes a few minutes as long as the blots are not rusted. They probably replaced it and did not adjust the wheel after replacement. Find a large empty parking lot and drive the truck straight, stop without moving the wheel and then adjust the drag link to straighten the wheel.
Yeah, I think I mentioned that...
If you do try the pull-the-steeringwheel method, let us know how it goes. I have never been one to try the square peg into the round hole, but have heard tales it can be done. I know for a fact the spilines inside the wheel are made to fit onto the shaft in one and only one position. At least that is how it has been on all 12 of my CUCVs, two 1986 Suburbans, and one 1978 K20. But maybe your's will be different...
 

OL AG '89

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SWEET Truck!!!!!
It looks like it came directly from a Military unit, not bastardize by a civy gooberment owner, other than the fuse block "fix".
I'm amazed that it has all the "goodies", radio mounts, fuel can holder, other stuff.....

Good luck, you're on the right track with the fluid change...... remember the TM has the PMCS, just a suggestion..... it is definitely a complete review of everything that's right and wrong with the truck.
A good starting point for any new project!!!

Again SWEET truck!!!

yea I'm a little jealous.....:smile:
 

wallew

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Yeah, I think I mentioned that...
If you do try the pull-the-steeringwheel method, let us know how it goes. I have never been one to try the square peg into the round hole, but have heard tales it can be done. I know for a fact the spilines inside the wheel are made to fit onto the shaft in one and only one position. At least that is how it has been on all 12 of my CUCVs, two 1986 Suburbans, and one 1978 K20. But maybe your's will be different...

Maybe on the CUCV's as I have not pulled one of these yet. But I'm gettin ready to this winter and replace it with a NOS.

But I've owned six mid 1980's Suburbans and this is patently FALSE. I've replaced two badly torn up stock steering wheels by either pulling them and repaired them back to plain stock. Or have found replacements either on the net or in 'the yards'. But I've pulled a bundle of Chevy truck steering wheels over the past fifteen plus years. AND I've done the realignment I've discussed without touching anything in the steering portion UNDER the vehicle and the only thing that changed was to remount the steering wheel.

And have replaced a couple with non stock wheels as well.

Sorry the only pix I've found is of my last Sub with custom interior I designed and had done. But the pix is not that great. But you can see the wooden wheel in it's place. I did change this one out in under an hour.

View attachment 199123
 
I'll be doing a change to a '90s steering wheel on my latest M1009 late next week, that is if my wheel was delivered to my other address like the ebayer I ordered it from says it was, and I'll take pics of what I am talking about to show all you doubters out there I actually do know a little something every great once in a while, when the moon is right, and the tides are just so...
Hopefully my camera will be able to focus on the area of the splines of which I speak. I would be interested to see what an alignment mechanic would have to say about our current conundrum. I have never seen one R&R a steering wheel in order to center it when I have taken my vehicles in for alignment.

aua
 
OK, I just R&R'd my steering wheel on my 1985 M1009 with one from a '90s version, and I will now admit I'm wrong! Dad always told me it took a big man to admit when he's wrong, so I guess I am a bigger man than the old man, 'cause that SOB was never wrong, but I am. Now for those of you thinking I was hallucinating, as I thought I was at first, there is a selective spline like I spoke of on the steering shaft, but it is not the area where the wheel mates up to it. The area of which I was thinking is a little further down on it where the lock plate mates up to the shaft. I did not take pics because I figured I was already admitting my error, but there is a place on the locking plate's splines that is missing a tooth, and the shaft also has an area where it is missing a groove so the locking plate can be installed in one and only one way. The problem with aligning the steering wheel by taking it off is the slot in the locking plate does allow one to adjust the little horn button's plastic tube for a matter of about an eighth of a turn, which may be enough, but if you don't remove the snap ring from the locking plate, it is just about impossible to move the horn button any without breaking the plastic. When considering the ease with which the plastic part can be broken, and the fact you will need not only the steering wheel puller and the tool to compress the spring holding the locking plate up against the snap ring, I would still think it is easier to adjust it the way I have seen alignment specialist always do it, but it is possible to do it the other way as well.
Anyway, my bad, I was wrong about the steering wheel splines, and I like my crow medium rare please.
 
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