My M1009 Plan

[McCluskey]

Hello all,

I'm new to the MV vehicle world. I’m in the midst of gathering funds to purchase a M1009. The Blazer would be my daily driver, so I'm not going to go crazy with off-road modifications. It's also going to be my weekend adventurer vehicle. I do a lot of trips out to Death Valley, and this would be perfect for tooling around out there. I have plans for some modifications I want to do. I found a good course of suspension parts from a site called:

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/

I have a friend who has used this site to lift his F-350 Super Duty and his Jeep Rubicon. I was planning to add the following things to a M1009:

2" Suspension lift:
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/127213.html

Duel front and rear shocks:
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/75170.html
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/75171.html

Sway Bar:
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/7524B.html

I talked to the company; they said they could include their Heavy Duty front leaf springs with my order:
http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/182712.html

Duel Cherry Bomb Mufflers:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCKVGLn_Khs[/media]

This is my basic plan I have now. It is no way set in stone, and I'm looking for insight and suggestions on what would be my best option to do to my M1009. I'm completely open to constructive criticism, suggestions, whatever anyone has to offer. Thank you everyone.


-Kevin

 

[Bobert]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I forgot which company is the good one, but rough country has a 2'' lift with rear springs for $610. I think tuff country has just the springs for about $550.

I know a guy that uses tuff country on his jeeps but it depends what brand you like.

 

[McCluskey]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I forgot which company is the good one, but rough country has a 2'' lift with rear springs for $610. I think tuff country has just the springs for about $550.

I know a guy that uses tuff country on his jeeps but it depends what brand you like.

The site I've linked sells Tuff Country. My above mentioned friend has used both, he says the quality is the same but Tuff country seems to last longer through the rough of it.

 

[K45]

You should look at Offroad Design for some ideas as well.

 

[McCluskey]

I have a guy who can install all the MP amenities onto my M1009 (once I get it) He's informed me on all the legality. Besides and mistaken legality issue possibility, does anyone know of any problems with having the set up?

 

[maritimer]

hey cool i am famous lol,
yeah the vid you linked is me and my m1009, i got a couple more vids up with it as well but heheheh i am famous lol

 

[McCluskey]

hey cool i am famous lol,
yeah the vid you linked is me and my m1009, i got a couple more vids up with it as well but heheheh i am famous lol

Sweet. Your vids are what are making me get Cherry Bombs for mine.

Jeez, I'm meeting all kinds of people on this site that I've seen around the net. This site is just too awesome.

 

[underdog]

According to K-5 owners Tuff Country HD EZ ride is the preferd.
http://coloradok5.com/tuffcountrylift.shtml

 

[hobie237]

First thing I'd do is upgrade the axles and the gearing. 3/4 ton axles with a real locker and 3.73s should do it.

 

[McCluskey]

First thing I'd do is upgrade the axles and the gearing. 3/4 ton axles with a real locker and 3.73s should do it.

How would I go about getting parts for that? Do you know a website?

 

[hobie237]

Well, the 3/4 and 1-ton axles are pretty readily available from junkyards, and the fitment is pretty well documented. Try www.coloradok5.com for more info.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

What he said.

Also, why do you need dual shocks on both ends? Just going to end up with a truck that rides like a brick wagon.

Consider www.OffRoadDesign.com . They're the big name in the aftermarket for these trucks and they sell Tuff Country springs. In the rear I'd do their 2.5" shackle flip. In fact they have a 3" suspension system with this in the rear and Tuff Country springs in the front along with all the parts you'll need to do it right.

 

[McCluskey]

Well, the 3/4 and 1-ton axles are pretty readily available from junkyards, and the fitment is pretty well documented. Try www.coloradok5.com for more info.

Are new axels and differentials really necessary? There's the cost of getting the parts, then having it all installed... it's going to end up being too much for me. This is going to be my daily driver most of the time, and once a month maybe taking 60-80 miles of dirt road out in Death Valley. It's not like I'm going to go rock crawling or dune jumping.

What he said.

Also, why do you need dual shocks on both ends? Just going to end up with a truck that rides like a brick wagon.

Consider www.OffRoadDesign.com . They're the big name in the aftermarket for these trucks and they sell Tuff Country springs. In the rear I'd do their 2.5" shackle flip. In fact they have a 3" suspension system with this in the rear and Tuff Country springs in the front along with all the parts you'll need to do it right.

Yea, I talked to my off-roader friend. He told me duel shocks aren’t necessary for my plan. Thank you for helping to confirm that.

The site I have linked in my original post, www.suspensionconnection.com/; the same friend can get me a discount coupon code cuz he's a frequent buyer. So I think I'm going to go with them.

 

[McCluskey]

Which of these Sway Bars would work on a M1009?

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/7520K.html

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/7524B.html

 

[hobie237]

Are new axels and differentials really necessary? There's the cost of getting the parts, then having it all installed... it's going to end up being too much for me. This is going to be my daily driver most of the time, and once a month maybe taking 60-80 miles of dirt road out in Death Valley. It's not like I'm going to go rock crawling or dune jumping.

I dunno, I figured if you were going to do all the other modifications, the axles seemed a more logical place to start. Lots of guys never have a problem with them, but lots of guys' trucks don't ever go off road. My recommendation would be to skip all that other crap, at least for the short term, and get some real axles under the truck, since there are plenty of people around here and elsewhere that have no problem blowing up the half ton axles under minor stress (larger tires, off road usage, etc.), and the garbage 3.08 gears don't help. Neither does the garbage "Gov-Lok" POS.

The axles aren't that expensive (at least not relative to that other pile of stuff you want to buy) and they're not hard to install. I kinda figured anybody with a 20+ year old vehicle would work on it themselves, since about any repair bill would easily exceed the value of the vehicle, just for the labor.

So anyway, if you want to keep the half ton axles, by all means, do so, just don't be surprised if/when your gov-bomb lets go.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

The problem with their stuff is...big surprise...they're the house store for Tuff Country. It's a bit overpriced and the kit is lacking. Notice how it has a "brake line extension" kit and doesn't even mention the steering at all.

Here's the ORD kit I mentioned before:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/3inchliftsystem.htm
Lift, brakelines, steering, and even addresses the frame by the steering box and the shackle issues when lifting these trucks. Also notice they said they customize the lift and the various springs are available in the kit. Great guys at ORD, run their stuff myself and have used them for years.

Gearing and axles...with 2-3" of lift you could easily fit 33's and 35's would fit with some trimming. I assume you're going to bigger tires because there's not much point in lifting it if you aren't. 3.08 gears were chosen for these trucks because - A. GM sold them as part of the cheapest package and B. they allowed the M1009's to do freeway speeds. Now put even 33's on and suddenly you've effectively got somewhere in the 2.xx:1 range for gearing. Take offs will be slow and you'll find it rather doggy around town. Hell, I don't like them with stock 31's! Find a set of 3/4 ton axles and you've got a better rear axle AND chances are excellent you'll end up with at least 3.73 gears which would allow you to comfortably drive and cruise with 33-35" tires. Not to mention as said above the Gov-Lock is a ticking time bomb in a 10 bolt. In a 14FF it's not a great locker but it does survive much better due to just being a lot bigger. Even in a 14SF it's stronger. A good set of 3/4 ton axles should be easy to find out in California. That site we've mentioned, www.ColoradoK5.com , has TONS of Cali members out there and I'd bet you could find someone willing to sell you a set or help. Lots of good folks on there and the tech info is great.

Swaybar - Why? Most people take them off (especially with lift springs) and find they don't miss them at all. I took mine off Big Ugly and you can't tell it was there. Why add a rear bar too? Not to mention those bars are ment for stock height trucks and not lifted ones. It can be made to work I'd bet but again...why?

 

[McCluskey]

I dunno, I figured if you were going to do all the other modifications, the axles seemed a more logical place to start. Lots of guys never have a problem with them, but lots of guys' trucks don't ever go off road. My recommendation would be to skip all that other crap, at least for the short term, and get some real axles under the truck, since there are plenty of people around here and elsewhere that have no problem blowing up the half ton axles under minor stress (larger tires, off road usage, etc.), and the garbage 3.08 gears don't help. Neither does the garbage "Gov-Lok" POS.

The axles aren't that expensive (at least not relative to that other pile of stuff you want to buy) and they're not hard to install. I kinda figured anybody with a 20+ year old vehicle would work on it themselves, since about any repair bill would easily exceed the value of the vehicle, just for the labor.

So anyway, if you want to keep the half ton axles, by all means, do so, just don't be surprised if/when your gov-bomb lets go.

What makes the gears and the Gov-lok so bad?

The problem with their stuff is...big surprise...they're the house store for Tuff Country. It's a bit overpriced and the kit is lacking. Notice how it has a "brake line extension" kit and doesn't even mention the steering at all.

Here's the ORD kit I mentioned before:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/3inchliftsystem.htm
Lift, brakelines, steering, and even addresses the frame by the steering box and the shackle issues when lifting these trucks. Also notice they said they customize the lift and the various springs are available in the kit. Great guys at ORD, run their stuff myself and have used them for years.

Gearing and axles...with 2-3" of lift you could easily fit 33's and 35's would fit with some trimming. I assume you're going to bigger tires because there's not much point in lifting it if you aren't. 3.08 gears were chosen for these trucks because - A. GM sold them as part of the cheapest package and B. they allowed the M1009's to do freeway speeds. Now put even 33's on and suddenly you've effectively got somewhere in the 2.xx:1 range for gearing. Take offs will be slow and you'll find it rather doggy around town. Hell, I don't like them with stock 31's! Find a set of 3/4 ton axles and you've got a better rear axle AND chances are excellent you'll end up with at least 3.73 gears which would allow you to comfortably drive and cruise with 33-35" tires. Not to mention as said above the Gov-Lock is a ticking time bomb in a 10 bolt. In a 14FF it's not a great locker but it does survive much better due to just being a lot bigger. Even in a 14SF it's stronger. A good set of 3/4 ton axles should be easy to find out in California. That site we've mentioned, www.ColoradoK5.com , has TONS of Cali members out there and I'd bet you could find someone willing to sell you a set or help. Lots of good folks on there and the tech info is great.

Swaybar - Why? Most people take them off (especially with lift springs) and find they don't miss them at all. I took mine off Big Ugly and you can't tell it was there. Why add a rear bar too? Not to mention those bars are ment for stock height trucks and not lifted ones. It can be made to work I'd bet but again...why?

Well the reason behind the lift isn't as much to get bigger tires, as it is to fit better quality leaf-spring and shocks. The bigger tires are a plus, but not my main reason.

If I were to change out axles for something with a different gear ratio, is my top speed going to drop along with my gas mileage? If upgrading the axels is the better thing to do, I'll do it. I just want to know all the info behind doing such an upgrade.

As for the sway bar; the idea of supposed better handling sounded good to me, but as I said in my first post my plan isn't set in stone. If a sway bar is a waste of money, then I won't install one.

What I need out of my Blazer, is a good street vehicle and to try to retain as much of the stock mileage as possible. For off-roading, at the most, something capable of close to the Blazer here:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm

I doubt I'd be traversing something like what is pictured, but something that could handle it if the situation called for it.

 

[hobie237]

What makes the gears and the Gov-lok so bad?

3.08 is a crappy ratio for anything but fuel economy. Deeper gears give you more torque multiplication- better for towing, hauling, off-roading, and generally accelerating. Taller tires will only make crappy 3.08s crappier, not to mention stress the crap-o gov-bomb, which brings us to...

The Gov-bombs are the worst of both worlds, ineffective at locking and effective at breaking.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

What makes the gears and the Gov-lok so bad?

As hobie said the stock 3.08 gears are mainly meant for highway use. Putting bigger tires on will effectively raise the ratio and you're heading more towards land speed racer than offroader at that point. It'd still drive and go...it'd just struggle to get up to speed and maintain speed.

The Gov-Lock likes to blow up in 10 bolts. It eventually fails and either blows up all at once or sorta goes limp and you think it's turned into an open diff for a long time...then blows up. I can think of three friends of mine who have had this happen to them off the top of my head and I know there's more.

Well the reason behind the lift isn't as much to get bigger tires, as it is to fit better quality leaf-spring and shocks. The bigger tires are a plus, but not my main reason.

Just through some good shocks on it and call it good then. No need to lift it. Unless your current springs are shot why replace them? Heck, you could fit 32's on the stock suspension and 33's if you trim a bit. The factory springs are fine quality...actually better than some of what's out there on the market (not Tuff Country though).

If I were to change out axles for something with a different gear ratio, is my top speed going to drop along with my gas mileage? If upgrading the axels is the better thing to do, I'll do it. I just want to know all the info behind doing such an upgrade.

No. Bigger tires will change your effective ratio (raise it) so putting lower gears in will bring your truck more back to the stock configuration's "driveability". This isn't like a hot rod or race car where your tire sizes are staying the same. When you change the tire size you should change the gearing.
Gas mileage...you'll likely loose a bit. Bigger, heavier tires will create more road resistance and a taller truck will create more wind drag. How much depends on how big the truck and the tires get.

As for the sway bar; the idea of supposed better handling sounded good to me, but as I said in my first post my plan isn't set in stone. If a sway bar is a waste of money, then I won't install one.

You've already got a front sway bar (okay, should have one unless someone took it off). Just for ****s and grins climb under there some time and disconnect the sway bar. Tie it up out of the way and go drive it around. Tell me if you notice any difference. Betting you won't. Big Ugly has a TOUCH more lean in fast corners and other than that, nada. There's more folks on CK5 without sway bars than there are with them.

What I need out of my Blazer, is a good street vehicle and to try to retain as much of the stock mileage as possible. For off-roading, at the most, something capable of close to the Blazer here:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/action/burly-burb.htm

I doubt I'd be traversing something like what is pictured, but something that could handle it if the situation called for it.

Then that lift I linked you too would be perfect. That's a Suburban by the way.

 

[hobie237]

On the topic of fuel economy, it's mostly a lost cause with these vehicles. If you want economy, buy something that gets better economy, not a 20+ year old truck. With current diesel prices, you're losing on the price per gallon end. Around town you lose because you're hauling around what, 5000 pounds of steel? (The pickups are around 6000, 5000 is just a guess on the Blazers because I'm too lazy to look it up.) On the highway you lose because you have the frontal area of a small building, to say nothing of the drag coefficient. Anyway, an overdrive trans would be your best bet.