My M1009 Problems!!!

[Jerchambers]

Ok...So I bought this CUCV and showed it only had 3273 miles...I thought wow!!! It is stamped range control on the side so the story was believable. I drove 90 miles to home. Everything was just fine until about ten miles out. My speedometer went out. I got home and parked it in front of the house. Started it again and backed into the driveway... It hasn't started since. It won't even turn over. The temp light came on as the key was turned and the starter relay clicks but nothing else. I replaced the starter relay... Checked the batteries... Tested the started.... and tested the voltage in both Alternators.... and looked for any loose ground wires. I am at a loss.... I have had two other people look and none of us can figure out anything.... Any ideas? After examining further there are a couple of shrapnel holes on the passenger side. So... Is this a rebuild?

 

[YellowHammer]

There's no telling how many times the odometer has rolled over. I bought mine at 99K right before it rolled over. I don't know how many times it may have prior. It was in the AL national guard. I'm in the GA guard and we roll up the miles on our HMMWV's big time. Active duty vehicles don't see nearly the miles that vehicles from guard units do. Range Control rolls em pretty heavy to depending on what base they were assigned.

As for your specific problems. If you've replaced the relay, checked the batteries, and ensured that all connections and the cables are good; I'd look at the starter. If you're not real proficient in checking the wiring, go to an auto electric place and get them to check all the wiring. It could just be some buggered up wiring.

 

[Jerchambers]

I was pretty skeptical as far as the mileage was concerned... I too was in the Guard here in CO... We used the heck out of our vehicles. This one look like a rebuild however. I did as I said above checked the wiring. I dropped the started and took it to Autozone to test it. I am still not sure what to do though. I know it is probably something simple and rediculous. If anyone else has ideas let me know.

 

[Jerchambers]

When I turn the key the oil light and brake and temp light are on. Sometimes I here the starter relay click. I have tried to check all grounds. Yes, I have looked at the TMs and came up with nothing but what I have said before. I thought about checking the starter switch... Maybe my optimum batteries are cooked. The voltage reads 11.9v for front battery and 23.4v on the rear. The alt are the same as the matching batteries. The wire to the selenoid on the starter has been spliced and extended as what looks to be a different gauge wire. The glow plug attachments look to be gunky. The fuzes are all tested and fine. The GPR is intact and shows voltage to match the 23.9v as the rear battery. Ahhhh... I don't know what else to do.

 

[mistaken1]

11.9V is a bad battery (or at least a discharged battery). 23.4V is too low. You should be over 25V.

 

[Warthog]

Start with the simple issues.

Have the batteries checked under load. Just because you have voltage doesn't mean there isn't a dead cell. Autozone will do it for free.

Clean the battery connections. Invest in a quality termial cleaner brush.

Check/clean your grounds.

The TM 9-2320-289-34 Tech manual Troubleshooting section covers a no start problem. It is pargraph 16 & 17 of Section 2.

You will have to learn how to trace the wiring and test the components. There are not many in the starting system.

You have the following in a stock starter system:

Assuming you have good batteries and clean battery cable connections.

24v from the 24v Positive Terminal Board to starter relay under the dash
with the relay energized - 24v to the starter solenoid on the starter
24v from the 24v Positive Terminal Board to starter
12v from the ignitio switch to the starter relay under the dash
ground from the starter relay to the chassis


Since you have the starter out, you can check for 24v at the purple wire when you turn the key. If you do not have 24v you can remove the starter relay and check the voltages there.

Here is the starter wiring digram with the wires colored for clarity.

Right click on the thumbnail and choose "Open Link in New Window"

 

[bkwudzhom]

It's a PITA but helps you learn you vehicle pretty quick. Don't ask me how I know.
The under dash relay is a problem when it comes to weak batts and has easy corrosion issues. I suggest this thread also by Warthog. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50551-cucv-switches-diodes-relays.html It is a great help in locating specific points. BTW Thanks Warthog!! It helped me a bunch!!

I also suggest DOGHEADS under dash starter relay upgrade while your at it. Search for it in the CUCV FAQ- --although the mods need to edit some unnecessary stuff out-- that whole section has good info in it.

 

[wallew]

Jerchambers,
I live in Denver and own both an M1009 and an M1028A2 dually.

If you want to 'look at' a running, correctly set up (IE 24v) CUCV, I have two you can look at. I'd also gladly help if I can.

Also, we have an MV club here in Colorado. Military Vehicle Collector of Colorado's aka MVCC. You can visit our NEW website by going to MVCC Online: Home

We meet the first Friday of every month down in Sedalia. That will be July 2nd. Then we have a parade at Highlands Ranch on July 4th, then a picnic afterwards for the members.

We would LOVE to have you visit or join the club. Just a bunch of old guys who like MV's.

If you would like more info, contact me at whiterivr at msn dot com

jim

 

[Jerchambers]

So my batteries should be fully charged by tomorrow...Keep your fingers crossed for me... I can't help but be frustrated right now... I am keep the faith and can't wait to see this thing rolling again. Thanks for all the information guys...bkwudzhom ... I did check out warthogs stuff....Great work... That is how I knew to replace the starter relay...

 

[Jerchambers]

Oh yeah... Does anyone here know where I can find a new F?%#ing instrument cluster? I broke the stupid thing where the gear shift knob cable loops.

 

[Warthog]

Oh yeah... Does anyone here know where I can find a new F?%#ing instrument cluster? I broke the stupid thing where the gear shift knob cable loops.

Been there done that. The only place I have seen them is the junkyard or another CUCV. I Civvy unit with the idiot lights will work. You just have to transfer the guts over.

 

[Jerchambers]

Loose wiring somewhere.... It RUNS!!!! Thank you all for the help and suggestions....Turns out one on the crappy Optima batteries wasn't holding the charge. Wallew I would still like to see your CUCVs..And would you happen to know of someplace that has spare parts... As I was doing all the troubleshooting my instrument cluster could use some help.

 

[Warthog]

Glad to hear you worked it out. Always start with the simple things. Don't assume your batteries are good until they are fully checked out.

 

[Jerchambers]

So I get back from running around town and now the dang thing won't start again. I don't know about this... I was messing around trying to figure out why the brake lights don't work. This is very frustrating.

 

[IdahoPlowboy]

Been there done that. The only place I have seen them is the junkyard or another CUCV. I Civvy unit with the idiot lights will work. You just have to transfer the guts over.

I had one that was broken myself, I just used 5 min epoxy to fix it.

 

[Jerchambers]

So I get back from running around town and now the dang thing won't start again. I don't know about this... I was messing around trying to figure out why the brake lights don't work. This is very frustrating.