My M1009 won't start

[harryhr]

I cannot get my M1009 to start. The batteries are fully charged. I have replaced the "glow plug card", glow plug distributer located on fire wall, and the fuel filter (which does fill with fuel).
I let the plug cycle three times and crank the engine for about five seconds as to not over heat starter. I can smell fuel. I have bleed the fuel. It just will not start. I changed the fuel filter last week and made sure the new filter was secure and tight before snapping the closures in place. It just will not fire up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Harry.

 

[Barrman]

You wrote about bleeding the fuel, then the fuel filter swap. Do you mean you did bleed the new filter with the pink wire unplugged? Then it hasn’t started since?

If that is the sequence then some air might have gotten in. That seems to always happen with me as well. I have found 45-90 seconds combined cranking time is needed to get all the air out and the engine running.

 

[harryhr]

I have not been able to start my 1009 since this past October. Prior to that, I was getting ready to attend a static display at a VFW hall. I had the 1009 running all the week before that Saturday. I got in the truck that Saturday morning. I did all the usual pre-checks before cranking engine. All it did was crank and would not start. So, I have been doing everything since then. You mentioned if I bled the new filter with the pink wire unplugged?. Hummmm, I did not know I had to have the pink wire unplugged. I did the fuel bleed before I changed the fuel filter (which was hard to find a replacement filter at all the auto/truck parts stores). Found it at Advance Auto Parts here in the falls. (special order from warehouse). As it is now, it still will not start even with new fuel filter. I will disconnect pink wire next time I bleed the fuel. How many times must I crank the engine before I close bleeder and re-plug pink wire?

 

[harryhr]

I cannot get to it today, but for sure I will do it tomorrow. Thanks Barrman for your comment. Much appreciated. Kinda woke up my brain. I will disconnect pink wire and crank engine at 6 sec. interval's as to not over heat starter. The whole time I was driving cucv's on active army duty, I never had any issue's with the vehicle's, mechanical or electrical. And our Company M1009's (military police) were always on the go.

 

[Guyfang]

Harry,

This thread should be in the CUCV forum, and not the "Website Help" Forum. I will move it for you.

 

[Barrman]

At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs. Don’t. Stop at your 20 count and wait. Then fire it up.

However, if it was running and then one day wasn’t. You might have other issues. I’m thinking bout pink wire connectivity in the first place as your possible no start cause. So, with the key on. Pull the pink wire off the IP. It should spark. Then hook it back up and you should hear a click. That is normal. No spark or no click then fix that first.

 

[nyoffroad]

At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs. Don’t. Stop at your 20 count and wait. Then fire it up.

However, if it was running and then one day wasn’t. You might have other issues. I’m thinking bout pink wire connectivity in the first place as your possible no start cause. So, with the key on. Pull the pink wire off the IP. It should spark. Then hook it back up and you should hear a click. That is normal. No spark or no click then fix that first.

I'd like to add, keep the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking, you're try to get all the air out and replaced with fuel and flooring it will speed things up.

 

[Mainsail]

So where are we currently?

Fuel? Are you getting white smoke while cranking?
- If yes; you have fuel into the cylinders, it's just not lighting off.
- If no; crack one of the injectors and crank to see if you have some fuel pressure.
No smoke and/or no fuel at the injectors might mean the lift pump isn't doing what its name implies it should be doing. You can crack or pull lines at the input and output to the filter to see if fuel is trying to escape to determine if the lift pump is lifting. If there's fuel pressure on the output side of the filter, next in line is the IP; those are known to go bad from age, like fruit.

Air? Did something build a nest in the air cleaner? Pull the cover off and take a peek in there.

Ignition? What outside air temperature are you attempting to start it in? You can ohm check the glow plugs without removing them, at least to get you a go/no-go determination. If you've ruled out fuel (white smoke from the tailpipe during cranking) then it isn't lighting off. Disconnect one of the glow plug wires and put a voltmeter between, get the WAIT light to come on, then watch the voltmeter. No voltage tells you something is amiss in the electrics somewhere- short path from the batteries to there, so should be easy enough to trace.

Where did you get the glow plug card? It might be bad from new.

Let us know what you find.

 

[harryhr]

So where are we currently?

Fuel? Are you getting white smoke while cranking?
- If yes; you have fuel into the cylinders, it's just not lighting off.
- If no; crack one of the injectors and crank to see if you have some fuel pressure.
No smoke and/or no fuel at the injectors might mean the lift pump isn't doing what its name implies it should be doing. You can crack or pull lines at the input and output to the filter to see if fuel is trying to escape to determine if the lift pump is lifting. If there's fuel pressure on the output side of the filter, next in line is the IP; those are known to go bad from age, like fruit.

Air? Did something build a nest in the air cleaner? Pull the cover off and take a peek in there.

Ignition? What outside air temperature are you attempting to start it in? You can ohm check the glow plugs without removing them, at least to get you a go/no-go determination. If you've ruled out fuel (white smoke from the tailpipe during cranking) then it isn't lighting off. Disconnect one of the glow plug wires and put a voltmeter between, get the WAIT light to come on, then watch the voltmeter. No voltage tells you something is amiss in the electrics somewhere- short path from the batteries to there, so should be easy enough to trace.

Where did you get the glow plug card? It might be bad from new.

Let us know what you find.

There is fuel in the fuel filter. When I'm cranking the engine, there is no white smoke coming out of tail pipe (at least none from what I can see). I can smell fuel. Before changing fuel filter, when I took off filter it was full of fuel. At this point in time, I do not have a voltmeter. Kinda disappeared when my cousin's son was in my garage a few days ago when I was not home. So, cannot check and watch volt meter at this time. I pulled air cleaner cover and it's clear. I have an enclosed airway from air cleaner to inside fender well for air intake. Where is this pink wire located. What is the purpose of the pink wire? Does this shut off the glow plug relay (that's located on the firewall)? I have been trying to get this engine to turn over since we had decent warm weather. Now it's Nov, and it's in the 40's. I appreciate very much for all the suggestion's and help I've been given. I'm just at my wit's end. My Blazer is parked outside next to my garage because I have a project 67' M151A1 sitting in there. Otherwise, that's where my Blazer is usually parked. I have batteries on trickle charge. 24 volt charger.

 

[harryhr]

When I took off old filter, there was fuel in it. Now that I have changed filter's, I still smell fuel when cranking.

 

[harryhr]

At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs. Don’t. Stop at your 20 count and wait. Then fire it up.

However, if it was running and then one day wasn’t. You might have other issues. I’m thinking bout pink wire connectivity in the first place as your possible no start cause. So, with the key on. Pull the pink wire off the IP. It should spark. Then hook it back up and you should hear a click. That is normal. No spark or no click then fix that first.

There is fuel in the fuel filter. When I'm cranking the engine, there is no white smoke coming out of tail pipe (at least none from what I can see). I can smell fuel. Before changing fuel filter, when I took off filter it was full of fuel. At this point in time, I do not have a voltmeter. Kinda disappeared when my cousin's son was in my garage a few days ago when I was not home. So, cannot check and watch volt meter at this time. I pulled air cleaner cover and it's clear. I have an enclosed airway from air cleaner to inside fender well for air intake. Where is this pink wire located. What is the purpose of the pink wire? Does this shut off the glow plug relay (that's located on the firewall)? I have been trying to get this engine to turn over since we had decent warm weather. Now it's Nov, and it's in the 40's. I appreciate very much for all the suggestion's and help I've been given. I'm just at my wit's end. My Blazer is parked outside next to my garage because I have a project 67' M151A1 sitting in there. Otherwise, that's where my Blazer is usually parked. I have batteries on trickle charge. 24 volt charger.

It was mentioned "pull the pink wire off the IP". what is IP?. Sorry, I am just not knowledgeable of the parts on a 6.2 diesel.

 

[harryhr]

Harry,

This thread should be in the CUCV forum, and not the "Website Help" Forum. I will move it for you.

 

[harryhr]

Thank you Guyfang for correcting my mistake.

 

[Guyfang]

IP is Injector Pump. The pink wire is what opens and closes a valve, (Solenoid) that lets fuel into the IP. Reason? Well, Diesels tend to run on, after being shut off. Run on, means continue to run. Why? because to make a diesel run, you need fuel, air and compression. So, to get an engine to stop running, when you turn it off, is a magnetic valve, (solenoid). Thats what the pink wire controls. Often, the solenoid is bad, and when it will not open, you can turn the engine over till the second coming, and it will not start.

 

[vanaisa]

Pink wire is here, circled in yellow

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/cf77383d-2fcd-4d6c-8bde-7c65566713c8-jpeg.883968/

 

[harryhr]

It was mentioned "pull the pink wire off the IP". what is IP?. Sorry, I am just not knowledgeable of the parts on a 6.2 diesel.
[/QUOTE

IP is Injector Pump. The pink wire is what opens and closes a valve, (Solenoid) that lets fuel into the IP. Reason? Well, Diesels tend to run on, after being shut off. Run on, means continue to run. Why? because to make a diesel run, you need fuel, air and compression. So, to get an engine to stop running, when you turn it off, is a magnetic valve, (solenoid). Thats what the pink wire controls. Often, the solenoid is bad, and when it will not open, you can turn the engine over till the second coming, and it will not start.

Okay, so now I know what to do. Much appreciated. First off, I will disconnect pink wire and and turn ignition on till WAIT light comes on and see if I have a spark from the pink wire. I will put it aside so that I can crank the engine a few times holding the fuel pedal down to get all the air out. Then hook the pink wire back and wait a bit, than crank it again. Right now it's cold and snowing. Tomorrow is supposed to be a better day to do this. I will run a tarp from the open hood to the high gate to keep the elements at bay. I would have liked to have known about that pink wire a couple months ago when the weather was much better. Oh well, crap happens. It's Steel soldier members like you, that make's this site great. That's how I gain the knowledge to get the job done.

 

[harryhr]

It was mentioned "pull the pink wire off the IP". what is IP?. Sorry, I am just not knowledgeable of the parts on a 6.2 diesel.
[/QUOTE

So where are we currently?

Fuel? Are you getting white smoke while cranking?
- If yes; you have fuel into the cylinders, it's just not lighting off.
- If no; crack one of the injectors and crank to see if you have some fuel pressure.
No smoke and/or no fuel at the injectors might mean the lift pump isn't doing what its name implies it should be doing. You can crack or pull lines at the input and output to the filter to see if fuel is trying to escape to determine if the lift pump is lifting. If there's fuel pressure on the output side of the filter, next in line is the IP; those are known to go bad from age, like fruit.

Air? Did something build a nest in the air cleaner? Pull the cover off and take a peek in there.

Ignition? What outside air temperature are you attempting to start it in? You can ohm check the glow plugs without removing them, at least to get you a go/no-go determination. If you've ruled out fuel (white smoke from the tailpipe during cranking) then it isn't lighting off. Disconnect one of the glow plug wires and put a voltmeter between, get the WAIT light to come on, then watch the voltmeter. No voltage tells you something is amiss in the electrics somewhere- short path from the batteries to there, so should be easy enough to trace.

Where did you get the glow plug card? It might be bad from new.

Let us know what you find.
[/QUOTE I sent away for it a year ago. It's supposed to be a NOS part. I've been driving it quite a lot last year with no problems. This past summer is when

 

[vanaisa]

---First off, I will disconnect pink wire and and turn ignition on till WAIT light comes on and see if I have a spark from the pink wire. ----

No need to wait. When ignition is on, touch pink wire to his connection - you should hear "click". If no, solenoid is bad and needs to replaced.

 

[Guyfang]

Just because the solenoid clicks, is no reason to BELEVE it works. Its a good sign, but have seen on gen sets, solenoids that clicked, and did not let fuel by.

 

[Mainsail]

Just because the solenoid clicks, is no reason to BELEVE it works. Its a good sign, but have seen on gen sets, solenoids that clicked, and did not let fuel by.

Very true. When my solenoid failed and cost me $400 for a tow, I checked it and it did click, just not every time. I believe mine was a heat related failure, so it worked for a while when cool and failed when hot - leading to the point where it gave up the ghost and was failed all the time.