My M101A2 Camper build

[Trailboss]

Actually, I'm not doing much building, just some subtle modifications to a M101A2 trailer to make it a little more useful for camping. I have used a M105 trailer to camp at the LA rally for several years, and it's great pulled behind a Deuce/5-ton, but I don't want to drive a Deuce or 5-ton 8 hours to a rally or long camping trips. I plan to usemy new M1031 CUCV to pull a smaller trailer.

I recently used a M1101 trailer at the TX rally, but pulling that sailboat behind the M1031 dropped the fuel mileage from 15.5 to around 11 mpg. Otherwise, the M1101 was a great camping trailer with the headroom.

So I migrated to a M101A2 trailer, which is 1/2 the weight of the M1101 and about 1/4 the weight of the M105, and a smaller surface area for wind resistance.

Since I have HMMWV tires on the M1031 CUCV, I added the same tires to the trailer. They're a close fit, but no interferences yet. I would have rather had a M101A3 trailer with the wider axle, but such is life. Gotta work with what I have.


Here is the trailer with the original tires behind the M1031, which also has a 6" lift.

I'll have to add a photo of the trailer hitched up with the new tires later this week.

 

[Trailboss]

I had most of a sheet of CDX sheething plywood, so decided to make a kitchen work table to go on the trailer today. This is some rough wood butchering with a skill saw, but I wanted something quick for evaluation for the maiden voyage to the LA Rally in 3 days. Worked out really well. I had been wanting to do something like this with my M105 camper trailer for several years, but never got around to it.

I cut a piece 95 1/2 inches long and 21 inches wide (cause that's what I had - wider might have been nicer). I wanted the wood to make a work table attached to the side of the trailer and as long as the trailer.



I notched the corners that fit behind the trailer corner braces to keep the board from sliding straight out. One notch was about 1/2 inch wide and would be put in place first. The other notch was wider, because the corner brace is angled, and you have to slide that end of the board down behind the brace to get the board level.



I also cut out space for the wheel fender, and used that piece of wood (about 2 1/2" wide and length to be inserted later) to make the support leg. I cut 3 notches in the leg piece to make adjustments for uneven ground to allow the table to be fairly level.


I thought about running ropes or small chains from the trailer to the table corners, but with the center leg, it seemed fairly secure. I'll find out how it really is during the rally this weekend.

By flipping the board over, it can be used on ether side of the trailer.

 

[Trailboss]

Since I lost so much space moving down from the M105 and M1101 trailers to the M101, I was looking to see how to store all my supplies and equipment. Still using scraps of wood from that sheet of plywood, I figured I could put up a shelf between the front two bows in the trailer.

I had one piece that was 67 inches long, which only left 1/2" over the edge of the side rails. I ripped it to 19 inches wide to go between the front two bows, and drilled one hole in that 1/2" space at each end to insert a small hitch pin. The hitch pin would keep the shelf from sliding back and forth and crashing down during traveling. Ideally, the shelf would have been a couple of inches longer, but like I said, you work with what you have.

I didn't think until after I had ripped 7 inches off the width of the shelf board, that I could have just notched the ends of the shelf for the #2 bow uprights, and had a wider shelf, and eliminate the need for the hitch pins. I guess that will be the Mark II version. Or, notch the board around the first bow to allow the edge of the board to rest on the front rail to provide support for the shelf to keep it from sagging in the middle.

I used a couple of ratchet straps to keep the shelf items from shifting during travel. I can put items about 14-15" high on the shelf. In the photos, I have an old GI wooden footlocker I'm using for kitchen items, and a duffle bag. It frees up a lot of floor space, and still leaves room for the foot of my cot underneath.

 

[61sleepercab]

I went truck topper camping for a week and found out several things out. I had a store bought camp box with multiple drawers for utensils, spices and mixes in zip top bags. The box was about 18 '' square and two foot tall. I kept it near the tailgate and put a gasoline Coleman stove on the tailgate. I used the folding Coleman oven which folds up to 14x14x2 and can reheat food and bake biscuits etc. The expedition long cool ice chest keeps food cooler longer and food can be frozen in zip locks and used like ice. Keep another cooler for drinks and water which you get in a lot more and this keeps the good freezer chest colder longer. Pouched food mixes can be packed flatter than steel cans and you can usually get water near camp grounds. Have some storage under the trailer frame?? GI cans in a frame? Mark

 

[Trailboss]

My M105 had 4 water can holders, and the M1101 has one water can holder on the tongue. My M101 doesn't have a water can bracket, but I'm about to add two water can holders on the rear of my M1031 CUCV. So far, in warm/hot weather, a 5 gallon water can is good for 2-3 days for washing and making coffee - beyond coffee, other beverages (normally with various alcoholic content percentages) are used to preserve the water supply.

Still working on cooking options, but so far I've been either eating community meals or MREs which require no cooking.

 

[rosco]

The M101 has many options. I have added yet another can holder to the tongue, so that it handles two, fuel or water cans. Its great for camping. That is, except for dirt roads - things can get rather dusty.

 

[Recovry4x4]

if you're ever curious just how much weight you can put on the front of an M101, I can assure you it's alot. Here's a 60F on the front of mine for the 700 mile ride home.

 

[Trailboss]

Shakedown cruise completed during the LA Rally this weekend.
Photo of the rigs on the way to the Rally.

The trailer is still higher at the front due to the truck lift, but it is not as bad as before I added the HMMWV tires. When I hitched up for the rally, I discovered that I had robbed the trailer light pigtail for another project and had to spend an hour scavenging a replacement from another trailer!

I had to add a 4x6 and a 6x6 block of wood under the tongue jack since it would not reach the ground to hitch and unhitch. Once unhitched, I moved the truck forward and lowered the jack until the trailer was level. Rehitching was easy.

Trailer and truck worked great on the trip there, except that the blue strap on the shelf came loose and dumped the footlocker. No damage, though. I made sure the strap was secure on the return trip, and everything stayed in place. The first morning I woke up and looked at the ceiling to see stars! There were a couple of dozen small holes in the cover that I hadn't noticed before, so I used some gorilla tape as a temporary patch.

Photo of the three camper trailers I've used side-by-side for a size comparison.


I didn't have to do any cooking, but I left the outside table set up the entire time with different weighted objects on it. It stayed pretty stable even through various rains. I think I'll sand and paint the board and keep it. I used an air conditioner the first night, and just a fan the second night. Pretty comfortable with both. There was enough room in the trailer to move around and store everything, but not as much freedom of movement, obviously, as with the larger trailers. I didn't get a good picture of the camp, but did crop the trailer from another photo.


I've got a couple improvement ideas, but I'll have to think about them for awhile. Stay tuned.

 

[Trailboss]

How about using telescoping poles that twist to lock as legs for that outside table/counter top. You can hinge them to the plywood and put a spring clip to hold them folded up for storage. Telescoping poles like ones used for squeegee to clean windows or like painter's poles for paint rollers.

AP Products 013-135 Adjustable Folding Table Leg

View attachment 556578

That's a nice adjustable leg, but a permanent leg would make it harder to slide the table into the trailer or slide other things on top of it when it's laying on the floor. It would also be harder to flip the table and use on the other side.

 

[Trailboss]

The M101 has many options. I have added yet another can holder to the tongue, so that it handles two, fuel or water cans. Its great for camping. That is, except for dirt roads - things can get rather dusty.

Yeah, that plug holder bracket will have to go. I was looking at putting a box there, but that would be a good place for a water jug. I want to keep close to the original military look with the cover, so I'll just have to deal with the dust.

 

[nchittendon]

I'm beginning my m105 camper build soon. Thanks for the ideas and inspiration!

 

[harleyhouse]

I found that 1 1/4" hitch receivers make great table attachment points.

 

[Trailboss]

I found that 1 1/4" hitch receivers make great table attachment points.

Thanks, Mark.

I've followed your build and the ones on Expedition Portal and picked up lots of ideas, but I'm trying to keep the trailer original (I still have the regular tires). I don't know why exactly, since there are so many of these trailers out there, unlike the M416 and M101a3 trailers. Probably because I'll be using a CUCV instead of a civi jeep as a tow vehicle.

 

[DOGWOODRIDGE]

Very neat! Question. When you said let it downshift when I cross the bridge, was I suppose to let off the fuel? Was I suppose to floor it? Was I suppose to manually downshift with the trans selector lever? Great trip!

 

[dnote]

Around the outside of the bed rail, would some thick rubber weatherstripping help limit the dust that got under the edge of the cover?
Just a thought.

 

[Trailboss]

Some of that self-sticking thick foam weather stripping might work on the sides and top of the tailgate, but the sides and bottom of the tailgate would still have gaps. Actually, I guess you could also put weather stripping there also. I haven't run into dusty conditions yet that a tarp over the stuff inside the trailer hasn't been able to handle, but dnote that is a good ideal!

 

[Dead pilot]

Very nice. Gives me more ideas for my m116a1 camper build.

 

[61sleepercab]

I look at my M101 and M105 trailers and my flat bed generator trailers and think a longer trailer tongue would give some more space and make the trailer easier to back and handle. I notice that tractor trailers now have an extended roof and side panels on the end of the trailer for better aerodynamics. It gives me a idea for a porch roof with some short diagonal side bracing. I am looking into dirt track car aluminum body sheet metal which can be formed and pop riveted together for possible roof or sides. I am 6 foot 4 and have to have head room to move around upright. So many ideas and so little time Mark

 

[timntrucks]

just seen this trend and gives me some great ideas. one of them is has anyone ever swapped a axle from 101 to a 105 frame. that might be just what i need . a larger trailer lower and with a a2 or a3 axle