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My new M109

Wolfgang the Gray

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New River, AZ
I just know theory at this point. Shavings mean the gears are not meshing right, maybe not audibly grinding, but grinding enough to slowly shave off bits of the teeth.

Anyone on here with practical knowledge that could give more insight?
 

daytonatrbo

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Tricities, TN
I just know theory at this point. Shavings mean the gears are not meshing right, maybe not audibly grinding, but grinding enough to slowly shave off bits of the teeth.

Anyone on here with practical knowledge that could give more insight?
The way they design gear sets, they give them oddball ratios so the same tooth on a primary gear isn't repeatedly meshing the same teeth on its mate every few revolutions.

What that means is, if you have a chipped or badly formed tooth on one gear, rather than wallowing out a few spots on it's mate, it evenly scratches and scars up all the teeth (eventually) on its mate.

You could have that sort of situation going on.
 

onemanarmy

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Raleigh, NC
I can't tell, if the gears are completely missing each other (like they are misadjusted) or that they are worn down completely and won't mesh anymore.

Like I said, I changed the fluid, and it looked a bit silvery. However, I would think that if the hardened internal gears of a 2.5 ton t case had eaten themselves, I would have seen a lot more debris.

I have never worked on a T case this large before, but the operating of it is the same as any manual t case in any other truck. I could be wrong though, and who knows what was done to the truck before I got it.

It won't even grind or 'skip' like the gears are even trying to engage.
 

onemanarmy

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Raleigh, NC
I suppose.

That's why I'm here. I'm not sure if there are any common issues with these t cases? Split gear? Adjustments? tests to do to narrow down the problem? anything else?

Thanks
 

red

Active member
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Eagle Mountain/Utah
In low range your shifter should be close to the floorboard, but not sitting on it. If it is adjust the linkage, might not be going completely into low range which would cause grinding.
 

onemanarmy

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Raleigh, NC
Checked it out yesterday.

In high range, everything is fine.

Move the shifter froh high range to low range, feel two solid clicks in the handle, and the handle is at the floor.

Let out the clutch, and the gears grind. I immediately push in the clutch. Try it again, and try and hold the shifter down, same thing. Occasionally I get no gear griniding, and no motion...like it is in neutral, with the shifter at the floor.

Gears aren't meshing.

Any adjustability?
 

onemanarmy

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Location
Raleigh, NC
So changed the oil a few weeks back, got the stock style NAPA filters, which included 2 different sized gaskets. I used the larger of the two gaskets, it seemed to fit snug and provide adequate sealing surface. Well after letting the truck warm up, I got a small amount of seepage from the base of the two oil filters, after I had cranked down on the nut on top of the canisters. So I went and did some more reading, and many here were saying to get the NAPA filter by itself, as the gaskets that come with the filters are not the right ones. So I order the gaskets(5119? or something like that, had it written down)...and what do you know, the were the EXACT same gaskets as came with the oil filters. Changed them out for the heck of it, and still get some seepage...not enough to really drip, just creeps up the filter housings.

Long story short....the gaskets that come with the stock style NAPA filters are the same as the ones that has been mentioned to order individually.

Also, I noticed while at the rear of the truck, that I only have the black out lights....no brake lights or turn signal housings. So I looked around for extra wiring, and saw none. Were some trucks fitted this way?
 

KaiserM109

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SE Aurora, CO
Happy trails (off road) to you. As you can see by my avatar I have an M109 which I bought in 2007 to turn into an off-road camper. It, too, is a '66, BUT it is non-turbo. It has a hard time getting into high gear at 5280 ft. elevation, so I won't be taking it to the mountains. Yes, I worked on it but only improved it slightly.

About plastic fuel lines, I believe you should replace ALL of them. When I disabled my FDC according to the published instructions I found that they were too brittle to bend the way they showed, so I changed all of them, believing that I didn't want anything left that was so likely to break. Any rubber or plastic on a 50 yr. old truck probably needs replacing, such as brake cylinders, seals, etc.

However, all my attention has been diverted to my M923A1, which also lacks a turbo, but reportedly does ok at altitude. It's an '84 and also needs lots, probably all, rubber replaced. I plan to bob the 5 ton and put the 109 box on it. If I move the spare and muffler and position the box as close to the cab as it is on the deuce, the single axle will come right between the 2 cutouts for the duels on the deuce.

About your M109, they have a thin layer of steel under the plank flooring which is probably rusted out. My truck came from the Arkansas NG and did one tour in Iraq. They put down a 5/8" layer of plywood. Several others on SS have fixed up 109s and there is a lot of good info. I see that you have been an SS for six years, so you probably know.

Good luck and I'm glad to see that you're taking preventative maintenance seriously.

PS About grinding between ranges, first you have probably had your truck out-and-about more than I have mine, so you are probably more of an expert than I. That being said, I have driven and worked on 4x4s for decades and they often have the same shifting ranges problems. This can be a serious problem if you are stuck in a mud hole before you go into low. I always try to be moving a little, about equal to a slow walk as I shift. The reason is that the transfer case has no synchros and often needs a little coaxing. If you are stopped, the gears aren't likely to be lined up. You can let the clutch out a little while it is in neutral, put the clutch back in and quickly shove it into gear. That will get one side of it moving. Just DON'T be putting torque on it while they go into gear or you might pop a tooth. Dentists for 6x6s are expensive.
 
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onemanarmy

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6
Location
Raleigh, NC
I got the leaky fuel lines fixed. Ordered some hose from McMaster Carr. Only thing else I had to get were some 3/8 and 1/4 brass compression fittings from Lowes.

9 times out of 10, while sitting still and the engine running, I'll put the trans shifter in neutral and move the t case lever from high to low range, and when I put the trans back in 1st gear, I get nothing, like it is still in neutral.

I looked for brake lights on Ebay for the Deuce, and mine don't look like the ones offered. I do have the brake light switch on the master cylinder though. All wiring at the back of the truck looks factory.
 

onemanarmy

Member
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6
Location
Raleigh, NC
In teh first and third pic, you can see the tail lights. These do not act as brake lights or turn signals.

Am I missing something? The lights I have do illuminate for parking/running/blackout lights. All wires appear to be connected.

Are there separate brake lights in this setup?

Thanks
 

onemanarmy

Member
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Location
Raleigh, NC
Thanks. They just don't look like all the other "deuce' brake lights that I've seen on other trucks (and the type that are sold on Ebay)

The ones on Ebay have a larger Red lens portion
 
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