My new M936A2 project (update)

[littlebob]

Great work on the wrecker Jason. I wish I could stay as focused and make as much progress as fast on my deuce. Hopefully I'll get a chance to see it at some point in the future

littlebob.

 

[54reo]

Any updates Jason?

(I got the ratchet and the socket in BTW, thanks!)

 

[halftrack]

I drove the truck for the first time this past week. I have pics that I need to post but just dont have the time. I love that truck. Everything seems to be just cosmetics now.. I do need to get it to allison fro them to tweak the shift modulator. I still need to get a tranny PTO for the front winch and a yoke for the tansfercase PTO. I will post pics this weekend. I promised Crash AF some pics and just haven't got around to putting them up. I admit, I took a big chance when I bought the truck. Knock on wood.

 

[Crash_AF]

Glad to hear you got it on the road. I'm hoping to get mine fired up for the first time here soon, but I keep finding little things missing (like the fuel return hose and fitting off the injection pump) that would make a mess if it were running without that part... LOL

BTW, the parts truck we bought at Polk should have some of the winch parts on it... drop me an e-mail so we can work something out.

Later,
Joe

 

[Cdub]

Great progress on the wrecker Jason........Just a suggestion though when you have the time......

Try to make sure you blow out the air wet tank the best you can. I charged up the air system from the rear emergency glad handle and removed one of the fittings on the wet tank and I could believe all the crap and gunk that came out of it. Then I had to blow out the drain line that went to the peck cock because that got clogged also from the crap in the wet tank..........Draining the tanks daily after each run is also a good idea.

As I started using Sharleen on a daily basis, some of the air switches started failing. I just had
to basically remove them and spray some WD-40 and some air and they were good as new. The T-case shift actuator was a different story. The actuator was so gunned up it seized itself in the housing in the High Range position. The actuator had to be removed from the T-case and disassembled. The actuator cleaned up very well and is working to this day.

Cheers,

C’dub

 

[halftrack]

Sorry for the delay Joe,

The pictures should help some.

 

[halftrack]

Here are some more. If you notice anything wrong that I may of missed, please let me know.

 

[halftrack]

Good tips Cdud. Yes, I do know I have a little coolant leak from one of my fittings coming off the compressor head.

 

[steelsoldiers]

Nice pics! I am missing some fittings on my air tanks, so that is a big help. Can you snap some of the t-case shift linkage and of the wiring above and around the transmission? Thanks!!

Have you rebuild your Haldex Pure Air Plus air dryer yet? It's a good idea to do that because a stuck relief valve could cause some expensive damage to the system. The desiccant filters can get nasty too. They do a fantastic job of keeping the air dry. I never had any moisture from any of my tank blow-downs. NAPA sells the kit. I will search my receipts to find the part number for you. I'm glad I am not the only one who has mud-dobbers nesting in the blow valves.

Cdub, you probably have the original style air dryer made by Stark. I found a company online that sells the rebuild kits for those too.

 

[halftrack]

Did a lot of work on the truck this weekend.

I had to bite the bullet and buy from CSI which ended up having reasonable prices.

I added the missing low air switch, replace the broken hood clamp, clean-out the cab, added the fitting for the clogged fitler piping, fixed the window regulator, and added a way to check transmission fluid. I bought an A1 dipstick tube but however since the 8.3 motor is a shorter block, the filler tube lands right in the curve of the cab firewall. So I measure where the level needed to be in the tranny and just added a see-through tube for the time being (you all can laugh now but it works).

Now for the bad news.

I driven it a few times and everytime after five minutes the rear brakes start to lock-up even though I have a constant 120 psig in the tanks. I am guessing it is some regulator proportioning valve above the axles. Which one, I don't know. I have to shut the truck down everytime, bleed the air out of the tanks, and build up air pressure and it works fine for about 5 minutes. Then it starts to slowly lock up again. IT IS AGGRAVATING. Any suggestions or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.

Also, while dragging the brakes and trying to limp back home, I pushed the truck to the limits and the tranny reach right under 200 deg F. What is the MAX temp for a tranny before damage is being done?

Here are a few pictures for the update.

Also, D-man, I included some pics of the rubber that the hood rest on. Hope this helps.

 

[NDT]

That wouldn't be that weird thing where if you do not have a vent installed on the glad hands on the front of the truck the brakes lock like you are talking about? There are threads here about that on the 800 series.

 

[halftrack]

I failed to mention that from a collectors point or view (or someone that does not have Uncle Sam's budget like me) I believe the A1 version of this truck is the way to go. For a cool factor and awesome motor with power and get up and go, this truck beats the 800s and early 900s hands down.

 

[Cdub]

I'm sure the Cooool Factor will get you through the difficult parts of the restoration.....and you'll be operational before you know it...........

seya,

C'dub

 

[cranetruck]

About the transmission op temp, this is for the xm757 8x8 6-speed Allison TX200-6 , but I don't imagine it being much different from yours.
(Right click and open link in new window for good resolution)

 

[BKubu]

Bjorn, did I understand that correctly...you are supposed to rev the motor up with your foot on the brake and the transmission in gear and hold it there to warm up the transmission? In the M939 series manuals, it says that you should drive away slowly in very cold weather to allow the transmission to warm up slowly...or something to that effect. I'll have to look it up.

 

[cranetruck]

Bruce, it's only for a "component test", not normal operating procedure. As for driving off in cold weather, the same applies to this vehicle, see image below.

The transmission comes with a thermostatic switch, which is set at 305°F and turns on a warning light on the dash. The switch NSN is 5930-00-688-9881 and I believe the same switch is used on newer transmissions as well.
An optional transmission temp gauge may be used and it pegs out at 320°F.

Edit: Added a little info

 

[BKubu]

Thanks, Bjorn. I thought I must have misunderstood it. Thanks again for the clarification.

 

[halftrack]

For you 900 guys as well as HEMTT folk, check this out.

https://www.themotorpool.org/forum1/uploads/p2p/

 

[Cdub]

Hi Jason,

I just love my P2P...........!!

Does the air section help you with you rear breaks......??.......Any leads.......??

seya,

C'dub

 

[halftrack]

Hi Jason,

I just love my P2P...........!!

Does the air section help you with you rear breaks......??.......Any leads.......??

seya,

C'dub

It does, it only narrows the problem down to about 100 different things. No seriously, it does help. If going by it I just need to check one or two components and it eliminates the problem to about 4 different areas.