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My Newly Aquired CUCV
- Thread starter FatBuddhaBoo
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FatBuddhaBoo
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Do they have the seat bolt holes already in it? How fast was their shipping?
Was also contemplating just replacing it with all flat sheet metal after watching a few Youtube videos and reading a few threads on some K5 forums. Especially considering I can get an entire 4x8 sheet for $60. Guess I have the day to ponder it.
Mine did not, but then I got lucky in that most of my floor issues are near the rockers. Shipping was 20.00+- for both floor pans and inner rockers. I am working top down on mine since the worst areas were up top and as you get closer to the frame everything looks shockingly good.
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FatBuddhaBoo
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I'm working top down as well as that just makes sense to me.
Mine had rust through at the top of the cab, so effectively water poured in, ran down the b pillars and out the floor. Nice huh? So closing up the route for water intrusion properly was the first item of business. Now I am just about half way done, front clip comes off and I am sure to find some surprises by the firewall. At any rate, keep on keeping on.
FatBuddhaBoo
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Sounds like I have your truck's twin!!!
I have not seen anything on the firewall yet. However, that may change when I go to replace the fender wells, which are pretty much gone too...
I have not seen anything on the firewall yet. However, that may change when I go to replace the fender wells, which are pretty much gone too...
FatBuddhaBoo
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She sure looks very similar...but only for a little while!Picked up a truck that looks alot like yours. I haven't taken an inventory yet but the engine is in the back...
Any idea what's wrong with the motor???
You mean besides being in a gazillion pieces and covered in rust? Not much.
FatBuddhaBoo
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You mean besides being in a gazillion pieces and covered in rust? Not much.
you're right, that doesn't sound good at all.....
FatBuddhaBoo
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Well it's been awhile, and I've got quite a lot accomplished. Stripped out all the Rhino liner in the front cab area and replaced the rusted out metal on the passenger side floor and B-Pillar. Also replaced the seats with late model Chevy seats that have the integrated shoulder harnesses. This cost me a $70, but well worth it for the upgraded comfort as well as not having to figure out a way to remount the factory seat belts in the new sheet metal. Also am upgrading the rear seat with a Chevy Tahoe third row seat that includes the integrated shoulder belts as well. Replaced the original head lights with the high intensity set from my S10 Blazer, and now come to find out this might be the cause of my electrical gremlins that have showed up lately. More to follow on this one....
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Keith_J
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Ugh, those look all too familiar. I have been doing a restoration on one that had been painted white. The CARC had been blasted off with plastic media, resulting in plastic EVERYWHERE, including the locks. The ignition cylinder had to be replaced. Even in the alternator/voltmeter relays were full of it.
The white paint was a single coat, no primer or sealer so every defect/holiday/chip had rusted. It wasn't sticking to the polished steel at all so that was burned off with wire wheels, then pickled with phosphoric acid, sanded or otherwise profiled for proper primer adhesion. Then Behr Ultra. It is now 383 green, waiting the camo treatment.
The white paint was a single coat, no primer or sealer so every defect/holiday/chip had rusted. It wasn't sticking to the polished steel at all so that was burned off with wire wheels, then pickled with phosphoric acid, sanded or otherwise profiled for proper primer adhesion. Then Behr Ultra. It is now 383 green, waiting the camo treatment.
FatBuddhaBoo
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Fortunately mine is a thin layer of white painted over the desert tan which was painted over the OD green. The only real bad spots are the front passenger side quarter and passenger side door where the guy I bought it from tried to strip it to bare metal. Got the fender looking right, still got to finish sanding down the down. I'll be using the Behr 383 green on her as well, which will match the Deuce nicely.
FatBuddhaBoo
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Well got the driver's side floor pan cut out and the replacement sheet metal roughed in. Should have it all welded and primed tomorrow. Then it's time to tackle the drip rail, rocker panels and removing the top to prime & paint the body section and replace the seals.
cpf240
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Have you had the top off yet? If not, you might find rust there too, between the top and the cab.
FatBuddhaBoo
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Not yet, but I know there will be a spot on the driver's side near where the roof was rotted out above the window and there's a spot on the passenger side where I replaced a bunch of metal on the B-pillar. Hoping there's not more than that.
FatBuddhaBoo
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Got the driver's side floor welded in and primed, as well as raising the seat up about 1.5 inches.
bigginstactical
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Have you tested the strength and flex of the floor like this? I see you set the seat in have you bounced in it? Only reason I say is because flat steel will flex unless you put in supports or bead roll it. You may have and I didn't see. Looks awesome though! I want one so bad!
FatBuddhaBoo
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I put in a few bead welds on the passenger side, but put sheet metal screws in on the drivers side to reduce flex. I plan on putting a few sheet meal screws in on the passenger side when I remove everything and paint the interior. There is still a small bit of flex that should be eliminated when the rocker panels are welded in.
Thanks for the compliment!
dependable
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Negative arch in front springs is normal on these. Nice work on the sheet metal.