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My transmission doesn't have a vent

TexAndy

Active member
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Location
Bee County, Texas
At least, I can't find it. I pulled the tunnel cover... the only thing I can see that might have been a vent location is just forward of the shifter boot, there's what looks like a small plug.

Is that the location and they just put a plug in it, for some reason?

Or is it someplace else?
 

TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
38
Location
Bee County, Texas
guess I'll just go ahead and get a brass fitting and some poly tubing to relocate the vent.

Are you guys that have done this using any kind of filter or check valve on the other end of the tubing to keep dirt or bugs from getting into the line?
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
I plumbed all of the vents (via barbed fittings) into the top of the air filter canister(outboard of filter) i dont see a reason to use a filter on the end of the line(inside the canister) but you could.
 

TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
38
Location
Bee County, Texas
I went by fastenal and ordered all brass fittings:

14 male to barb fittings
2 street Ts
2 all female Ts
2 90* streets.

This should all me to run everything to a single line going into the air cleaner housing. It'll be all 1/4" ID tubing.

I'll drill a hole in the top of the lid, run one of the barb fittings in there, back it up with a nut with O-rings on either side.

Since I've gone this far... is there anything else I really need to do to make my deuce nice and water-tight for fording?
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
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63
Location
eldersburg maryland
why drill a hole in the lid? it already has a 1/8 pipe hole. but for fording you do not want to vent anything, you want to pressurize it which is what the fording kit does. this is what is done to vehicles that are expected to be in water. and even then the manual wants you to take everything apart and check for water after serious submersions. you also need to plug the clutch housing, which is an open path to the inside of the trans you know? and what about the quality and seal of the front hub boots? water is just too much of a hassle unless you really have to do it.

tom
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
I went by fastenal and ordered all brass fittings:

14 male to barb fittings
2 street Ts
2 all female Ts
2 90* streets.

This should all me to run everything to a single line going into the air cleaner housing. It'll be all 1/4" ID tubing.

I'll drill a hole in the top of the lid, run one of the barb fittings in there, back it up with a nut with O-rings on either side.

Since I've gone this far... is there anything else I really need to do to make my deuce nice and water-tight for fording?

you can run a 1" id hose (marine flex hose) from your air compresser intake to the 1" od pipe thats on the side of the air filter can.
 

TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
38
Location
Bee County, Texas
you can buy a 1/8 npt tap to thread your fitting into the top of the can. i'll post a pic soon.

I considered that, but I didn't think there was enough metal in the lid to do it.

I think it would be better than drilling a hole because then someone could thread a plug in there, weld it, and grind it flush to return it to stock condition very easily.

eta: M35-tom,

If I add a vent line for my transmission, does the clutch need to be open any longer? If not, I'll go ahead and plug it out of general principle.

No real plans in the future for this truck to go playing in water, but you never know.
 
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RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
pics

heres some pics of the line to barb connections,drilled and tapped the one on top of can with 1/8 ntp tap,plenty of thickness, oh ya;what fording kit would be complete without the fording grill!! yak yak yak!!!


want to add that the line vented into the top of can is a main line that runs on the inside of frame from the rear axle vent and all other vents are tee'd into that main line, a good oil resistant line should be used.
 

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