Nate475
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- Glen Burnie Maryland
When I first got my M1009 over the summer everything seemed ok. Then my rear battery took a crap on me this fall so I replaced it. In a few weeks the rear battery died again. This time I replaced the front battery and I got the rear battery replaced under the warranty. Less than two weeks later the new rear battery died once again. Each time they died they were drained down so bad that the cells were destroyed and they wouldn't hold a charge. I had my mechanic friend come over and hook up a meter to detect a power drain, and none was detected. When I took the second rear battery back the store told me that before I could return another one that they needed to check my electrical system for a short. At this point I had gained some knowledge on how to test my electrical system with a meter which was a big plus, but it wasn't solving the problem.
So I got a rebuild kit from CUCV Electric, good company by the way. They were so nice they sent me a free meter, what a deal. But I never rebuilt my alternator and here's why. After discussing the problem in depth with my mechanic friend who often leaves info out on the first discussion, he told me that when ever he encountered this type of problem that it was always a short in the alternator.
Apparently the windings or that red metal wire braided thingy that surrounds the inside of the alternator can short out. It will be a situation where you start your truck 100 times with no power draw after you shut it off. But then when ever the alternator shaft rotates to that special point where the short lies when you shut it off the power drain begins killing your battery. The only way to figure this out is to hook up a meter every time you shut your engine off until you find a power draw. This could cost you a lot of money in tow bills and batteries if you don't figure it out quick enough. The other problem is that you can't fix the alternator with a rebuild kit. So I bought a new alternator from Rare Electric off of Amazon.com for $200 bucks. They have an exact replacement for the CUCVs.
That solved the problem and my gen light no longer stays on until I raise my rpms above idle speed. So that's two problems solved with one fix. As Charley Sheen says, winning!
So I got a rebuild kit from CUCV Electric, good company by the way. They were so nice they sent me a free meter, what a deal. But I never rebuilt my alternator and here's why. After discussing the problem in depth with my mechanic friend who often leaves info out on the first discussion, he told me that when ever he encountered this type of problem that it was always a short in the alternator.
Apparently the windings or that red metal wire braided thingy that surrounds the inside of the alternator can short out. It will be a situation where you start your truck 100 times with no power draw after you shut it off. But then when ever the alternator shaft rotates to that special point where the short lies when you shut it off the power drain begins killing your battery. The only way to figure this out is to hook up a meter every time you shut your engine off until you find a power draw. This could cost you a lot of money in tow bills and batteries if you don't figure it out quick enough. The other problem is that you can't fix the alternator with a rebuild kit. So I bought a new alternator from Rare Electric off of Amazon.com for $200 bucks. They have an exact replacement for the CUCVs.
That solved the problem and my gen light no longer stays on until I raise my rpms above idle speed. So that's two problems solved with one fix. As Charley Sheen says, winning!
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