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NAPA part numbers for WMO filter set up.

joshs1ofakindxj

Active member
738
120
43
Location
SW PA
So anyone been building new stuff?

I installed heater elements and the snap switch in my oil drum and got it working but it took forever to heat up and I never got up to the 220F I was shooting for after a few hours. I need to get some insulation for my drum I guess (duh!).

I think I am already in need of another filter for the Fill-Rite Hydrosorb filter I'm using as my final transfer filter. I can tell my chevy oil pump is working harder pushing oil through it from my clean oil holding tank into the truck's tank. I think I only have 250 gallons MAX through it, maybe less even. I wish I had a pressure gauge on it to monitor it's condition.

I drove around these past 2 weekends running on 75% waste hydraulic fluid / 25% diesel. I think it runs better on WATF/WMO than on the hydraulic fluid.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
My to do list is down to a couple dozen things to do. I just stopped and looked at the WMO parts pile to evaluate what it would take to make it function. The biggest hang up was no welder. I have it now thanks to a very long and heavy extension cord. Once I catch up on some of the restoration work, I can finish this project.
I don't like starting stuff and having to leave it. I also won't finish it till it is built in my mind and all problems have an answer. A lot of the feedback I have read has helped with what I want to do. And change.

I am also still trying to iron out a few things. I wanted to insulate my tank also. I was going to wrap it with insulation and skin it with sheet metal. I also bought a candy thermometer with a threaded shaft. I am going to install a water drain on the racor water filter up top. And a friend gave me a metal frame wooden spool stand that will work great for all this.

All this knowing in the back of my mind that a centrifuge is probably going to be what I settle on in the long run. I'll finish the filter skid soon. :beer:
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
hey i'm doing some research for my filter system and just wanted to make a suggestion. the 5 micron filter your useing my computer is showing costing about $40.00 how about this one? wix #33352 6 micron $7.00 same base used. i am also showing a 2 micron filter #33528 same base. both have no by-pass valves.
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
also the 10 micron hydrosorb filter wasn't availible at my shop so i am going with a wix #33418 12 micron fuel-water seporator with drain cock on the bottom $17.00 and uses the same 1-12 thread base that your 23 mic does.
 

rolling18

Active member
624
77
28
Location
Portland, OR
For dewatering oil I use an immersion heater it heats up a 55 gallon drum of oil in a bit very quickly more than 300 degrees if you want. I just have to figure out how long to heat it and at what temperature I use a harbor Freight laser thermometer to get the temperature down I don't have to get very close to the hot oil

Before I take oil from a source I'd check it with color cut to determine the level of water underneath the oil like a dipstick it turns pink at the level it encounters water.

For pumping I recently bought 2 government Liquidation 24 volt pumps rated at 35 gallons per hour by Scott they are very very heavy duty and came with 1 and a half inch hose and a filler nozzle that is huge all new! I'm going to be selling 1 of the pump soon because I only need 1. Great part is they run with a slave cable of the 24 volt truck so I just plug it in when I'm scavenging oil
I also made to straw like devices to pick up oil from drums and all of those pieces are a test with cam locks.

I store the final clean the oil in a 275 gallon tote then I pump it through a filter water separator to my 110 gallon in bed tank so far this is working pretty good and reasonably fast especially heating oil with the immersion heater!
 
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Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Yes. I looked for a while to narrow one down. Then found it at of all places
Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Sw...ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1324745596&sr=1-2
25.21 for two of them.

This kind of seems important for a safety feature using the water heater element.

All it would take it is me plugging that in to get ready to process oil and then the phone would ring.
Or a wink from Liz.:jumpin:
Hey what was the reasoning that you went with a snap switch instead of a hot water heater t-stat?

I'm getting the parts together for mine. Thanks
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,890
1,480
113
Location
Laramie County, Wyoming
Subscribed. Great thread..now I think I know what to do with all that contaminated diesel out of my M52A2 primary tank.. It was so bad, a chunk of asphalt came out while I was cleaning it. Right now...about 35-40 gallons of oil/diesel/dirt/gack is just plain nasty, no water thank goodness. Just a bunch of gunk from unfilter waste oil getting dumped in there.
 

Jimma

Active member
1,281
3
38
Location
Hartwell, GA
I use duda diesel bags. They last quite a while, you can stack them inside each other using different micron bags. They are pretty affordable and simple.
 
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