Need advice on fuel line heater for a M1008.

[fal_shooter]

I changed out the military fuel filter in my M1008 for a spin on type. I has a Racor 490R30 spin on filter with water detector installed.

With winter approaching I was thinking I might need to install a fuel line heater. Something that would heat the fuel when I flip the switch to heat the plugs. As the wether gets a little colder it is harder to start first thing in the morning and runs a little rough at first but it smooths right out after a couple of minutes. It has new glow plugs. I am not a mechanic so any advise would be helpful.

Do they make a fuel filter heater for this model Racor? Does anyone know what the model number is?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

 

[Timber]

I'd try a block heater to help those cold starts.

 

[BIG_RED]

diesel fuel bought in cold climates is treated for cold weather. I do not have a fuel heater on my M1009. It starts at -40*. You should have a block heater on any diesel in cold weather imho, so if you don't have one I would get one of those first. Freeze plug block heaters are by far the best. They cost around $30 and install in the freeze plug hole on the drivers side. It takes a hammer, a metal rod, a jack, fresh coolant, and an afternoon to install one. It's worth it. I put one in. It worked so well, I put an extra one in. (where I live, it gets pretty cold. I NEED one, so I put 2 in so I always have a backup). It is normal for a diesel to run a little rough when first started. Just wait for it to warm up before you drive it (I wait till the high idle shuts off and it idles down). Try putting it in a warm garage overnight. If it starts much better - you need a block heater. If it's not much better, you probably have air in your fuel lines (pinhole leaks, rotted hoses, etc. causing air to get into your fuel stream). A fuel line heater is not usually necessary if you run winter diesel (bought in the winter). It would be needed if you were trying to burn summer fuel year round (which is why the M100X series had them, so the military (and other gm diesel customers) could burn summer fuel year round. I can help you with setting one up, but I honestly believe it would not be in your best interest. Good luck.

 

[fal_shooter]

Thanks for the block heater advice. Unfortunately I live in an apartment complex and do not have assigned parking or an outside plug to connect a block heater.

 

[BIG_RED]

Long Extension cord out a crack in the window? (did that before) Where I live, I must plug my car in to warm it enough to safely start it. I carry a small gas generator in the back in case I plug into a dead plug or there's a power failure - in which case I chain the generator to my bumper and let it run for an hour or two before I try starting. I don't know how cold it is where you live, but if it's much below freezing, a block heater will definitely extend the life of your engine. Diesels hate cold weather. But my 6.2 has astonished me with it's survival in brutal conditions. Good Luck!

 

[Westech]

If you think your cucv wont start at -40 its your own fault. A 6.2 with good glow plugs and the fuel system in proper working order that truck will start! If you are very worried about it install a cold climate fuel burning heater system. The military unit heats the engine, coolant and even the trans. the kits are out there. Mangus installed one in his M1009.

 

[BIG_RED]

" I do not have a fuel heater on my M1009. It starts at -40*. "

"Where I live, I must plug my car in to warm it enough to SAFELY start it."

I agree Westech,

I'm not saying it will not start at all. I'm saying it's quite bad for it. Mine once started in - 40*. But it sounded BRUTAL. That was an emergency situation. Like I said, I am amazed by how well the truck has held up in this climate, but starting it every day at -40* would surely shorten it's lifespan. I'm trying to prolong it's life with my block heaters and such. I don't like to start it under -20* engine temperature. As someone who has taken apart many many ruined engines that lived their whole lives up here, I can tell you that exceptionally cold starts damage them.

In all honestly, no I have not taken a ruined 6.2 diesel that lived all it's life up here apart, but I have taken apart many gas engines to see excessive piston wear and quite out-of-round cylinders. As I'm sure you know, the rings are set up to seat properly at full operating temperature. Starting an engine at -40* gives it 30 more degrees to have to climb before everything starts sealing properly than starting it at 0*. (110* more to climb than in the summer) During this time, you get excessive blow by -> dirtier oil. The textbook I used in engine school shows a chart of temperature verses wear. I could scan the page and post it, but the picture thing is down. When an engine is very cold (especially the newer ones with shorter piston skirts), the aluminum pistons slap around in their bores. Everything heats up at different rates. Cylinder wall temps climb rapidly as the rest of the block takes a long time to heat - this leads to stress cracks where hot and cold parts meet, weakening of the metal, etc.

I would love one of those fuel fired heater kits, but I'd have to mail-order one and I bet it'd cost me a fortune. I'm also uncomfortable about having fire under my hood when I'm not around - but I'd get over that if they were well made. I find all my electric heating works well and costs me very little to run. (electricity is cheap where I live, fuel is expensive). I also heard that the fuel fired heaters run their thermostats, pumps, solenoids, etc off your batteries.. low batteries would be a terrible situation up here. Especially with a 24volt set up that few people can boost (hence my generator + battery charger) My electrical set up is getting battery maintainers this year, keeping the batteries full while everything stays warm.

How much are the arctic kits worth? I am interested. I looked at one before I went electrical, but my electrical set up is $60 worth of block heaters, 2x $20 stick on pan heaters and one afternoon to install, as opposed to the kit I saw which was $400 and involved pulling oil and tranny pans, that I just put back on, and needed new fluids, more time, more headache.

I don't mean to put down your suggestion. Can you tell us more about your experience with these arctic kits? I've read the sales pitches. How do you feel about them? I trust another member's judgment alot more than the people who want me to buy it. Thanks.