Need Assistance with Gauges Please

[Sharecropper]

I've never owned a HMMWV, however I am wanting to install these gauges in my M1028 CUCV. I have no idea if they will work, or if they will, how to wire them up. I purchased them from our favorite auction site and they were listed as new HMMWV gauges, however I haven't a clue. I figured the best place to ask this question would be in the HMMWV Forum! What kind of connectors are those and where do I get them?

Thanks in advance for your responses and please forgive my utter stupidity.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Ok, here's where initiative comes in. (yours). Personally if I wanted to try those out. I would (simply) replace one at a time as the connectors may be just "pull two out, push two in) and if not, I would cut the wires find plugs to fit the clocks, splice wire to plug and give it a try. Obviously any other option of "cut and splice" to suit connecting can be tried. (including the "nut and washer type posts on back of clocks). Good luck. Keep us up dated and some pictures. My 1/2 penne'th.

 

[Warthog]

They will not be direct replacements. Those are 24v units. You will have to get the correct sending units (if they exist. I have no idea. You may be able to adapt something).

Connectors are available from various vendors. Erik's is a good one.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq10ms.html

 

[NDT]

No prob to do what you want to do. In a nutshell, positive 24 volts goes to the non-ribbed terminal on the gauge. The other terminal goes to the sender. The sender and gauge HAVE to be grounded. The sender for oil pressure you need is the 0 to 60 type, not the 0 to 120 type. It will have a 1/4 MNPT thread. The sender for water temperature will have a 1/2 MNPT thread. All senders (for trucks) have been the same since the 1950's so it's hard to go wrong. I don't remember where a switched 24 volt source is under the CUCV dash. Anyone?

 

[Warthog]

No 24v switched sources in the fusebox. Only continuous. He should be able to use one of the switched 12v to run a relay for the 24v

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout

 

[NDT]

How about tying in to the +24 wire that feeds the voltmeter? I doubt the two instruments draw more than a few mA.

 

[Warthog]

The voltmeter 24v wire is hot all the time. It is the ground wire that is switched with the relay.

That is why when you remove the dash panel you should disconnect the batteries or remove the 24v fuse.

 

[Al Harvey]

No 24v switched sources in the fusebox. Only continuous. He should be able to use one of the switched 12v to run a relay for the 24v

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout

If you go this route, make sure it's an isolated relay and not grounded through the relay. Same principle as the doghead starter relay mod.

 

[Sharecropper]

I found the Packard connectors at realcustomtrucks.com .

Question - do I need the female or male? Kinda confusing. Also, 14 gauge or 16 gauge?

Thanks.

 

[Sharecropper]

And yes it looks like I will need a 24 volt relay fed from the 12v ignition terminal on the fuse panel. Any suggestions?

Thanks again.

 

[NDT]

Male, either gauge. Bosch type ice cube relay from your auto parts store.

 

[Sharecropper]

Thanks !

 

[Warthog]

Here is a quick diagram of how to wire it. I "borrowed" parts of it from the web.

Connect terminal 30 to the 24v hot terminal in the fuse box.
Connect terminal 86 to one of the 12v switched terminals in the fuse box
Connect terminal 85 to ground
Connect terminal 87 to your gauges
( from post #4 above - positive 24 volts goes to the non-ribbed terminal on the gauge)
Since you are not pulling that much power a 14 or 16 gauge wire will work.

You will also want to ground the gauges, either via the mounting bracket or a wire



http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout

 

[Warthog]

I found the Packard connectors at realcustomtrucks.com .

Question - do I need the female or male? Kinda confusing. Also, 14 gauge or 16 gauge?

Thanks.

Sounds strange but you need the female, just like ones in the link to Erik's above. Female electrical connector/male rubber shell

 

[Sharecropper]

Sounds strange but you need the female, just like ones in the link to Erik's above. Female electrical connector/male rubber shell

I bought a 10-pack of male and female just in case.

I will post photos of this when i get it all done in case anybody has any interest.

Thanks everyone for your posts!

 

[Warthog]

Moved to the CUCV Modified Forum

 

[Sharecropper]

OK I am almost ready to install these gauges, however a thought occurred which caused me to ask a follow-up question -

Are these OEM HMMWV gauges illuminated? There is nowhere for an auxiliary bulb to fit, so if they are illuminated, they must have some sort of self-illumination built in. If they are not self-illuminated, I will probably re-think installing them because what good is it to have gauges you cannot see at night?

Thanks in advance for your comments.

 

[Al Harvey]

I think the light comes in from the side. The bulbs go into the mounting plate on the cluster of the HMMWV if I remember correctly.

 

[Warthog]

They do use the common light in the cluster mounting plate. I have seen other mount some red LEDs to the housings. Maybe I can find the thread.

 

[Sharecropper]

Well I've spent the better part of the evening looking online at alternative USA-made gauges and nothing will, in my opinion, "look" better in my M1028 than the HMMWV gauges. And since they were designed and manufactured for our military, I truly think they may be the best-quality gauge as well. I am ****-bent to use them, however I've got to figure out a way to illuminate them at night, since they do not feature self-illumination.

Has anybody ever jerry-rigged an LED inside the case of these gauges? If I can't figure out a way to illuminate them from the inside, I may simply mount another map light over them to match my other map lights.

Thanks in advance for all comments.