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Need Dead Deuce Help, Electrical

tklm539

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Well it happened, I went to use my truck today and for the first time it did not start. I must admit that I saw it coming but am not sure what the problem is. I will try and give as much info as possible to help.

When I go to start it, the truck cranks over 4-5 sec. very strong. The weather is still warm. After that, the battery gets weaker and weak until it gets to the point that if it did not catch, I would be dead on the next try. When I was using it a few times a week, this summer, it was not a big problem because it started on the second try.

Sadly, I let it sit for two weeks and today, after the first crank, I quickly progressed to the dreaded click click click...

I figured it would really be a problem in the cold weather.so several weeks ago I took it into a shop that used to own several air force deuces. They told me that the alternator was charging and the batteries were up to full charge. No other advice.

The fluid is all up to spec. and the terminals are clean. The electrical system is stock and I am not leaving anything on so where is the drain???

My first thought was to replace the cables running to the ground, stater and the jump between the batteries or replace the batteries themselves or both. All of which sounds pricey for a, "well maybe this will work" approach.

Any advice would be great as I am at a loss.

Thanks

Tom
 

Scrounger

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The first thing I would check is the condition of the batteries. Even though they may take a charge they may not hold one. If you charge the batteries fully and have or can borrow a load tester, that can tell if the batteries a still good. I like and have a tester that allows testing of the individual cells. I had a similar problem with the 54 and tracked it down to a bad battery.
 

poppop

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The battery,s are most likely the problem. I just had a simular problem with my Chevy 3500. Everything was fine. I was doing a project and had the radio playing for a couple hours and was slow to start. Charged the batts and tester said fine. Next day same problem. Tester said weak, charge battery,s. Took to NAPA and their tester said dead cell. Got new battery under warrenty.
 

ken

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If it's turning over 4 or 5 seconds then it's probally got a fuel or air in fuel problem. Mine turns less than a second before it fires. Unless it's turning over soo slow that it can't build enough heat to ignite the fuel. Mabye the starter is dragging?
 

acetomatoco

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Diesels love good batteries for the compression ignition.. Remember to charge the new batteries before trying to use them...most are at 50 percent or less when you buy them wet off the shelf...for sure... My cucv with low batteries would not crank past a bad spot on the flexplate and after battery replacement and the faster cranking, it jumps the bad spot and saved me 6 hours and a hundred smackers, until I really want to do the job... love those group 31s...use em in my deuces and 5 tonners too...
 

tklm539

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Thanks all, I had the batteries tested and was told that there is no dead cell. Should I give the new batteries a try? If so, what are good ones (brand and size) to get?

Thanks

Tom
 

DDoyle

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A pair of 6TL in good shape and fully charged will crank a Multifuel a LONG time. For example, I worked on a truck with a IP pump problem for three days in the summer sun of Ft. Riley - I gave out, the batteries never did. Must have tried to fire up the truck a hundred times.

IF you are only getting 4-5 seconds before the batteries begin to fade, either the batteries are bad, or something is drawing an extraordinary amount of amps. If the batteries have been load tested (which is not the same thing as checking the voltage) with the proper device and shown good - then check the amp draw when cranking.

Whether or not the truck actually starts is fairly immaterial - it should crank for a LONG time.

While I don't recommend anyone do this - I have driven a non-running deuce up ramps and onto a trailer by putting it in second and riding the starter. It doesn't sound like there is a chance your truck would do that - if you are satisfied that your batteries are good, then remove and reinstall all the battery cables at both ends, and clean any rust, corrision, dirt, paint or grease you come across on the way.

HTH,
David Doyle
 

73m819

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could be starter dragging, a bad starter will suck a battery down in a heart beat.

i had a joy 125 air compressor that sat for about 6 months, went to start it with new batteries, 3 or seconds, then nothing, pulled the starter, took it to the rebuild shop, thay called me, told me nothing was wrong, it just need cleaning, a bunch of cawely things had made a home in it
 

m-35tom

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this can be a dangerous procecure so use caution and avoid any ignition source. slide the batteries out and remove all caps. then try cranking for a few seconds. next look into cells and see if one is bubbling a lot. this is a sure sign of a bad cell and does not require any test equipment.
 

houdel

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tklm539 said:
When I go to start it, the truck cranks over 4-5 sec. very strong. The weather is still warm. After that, the battery gets weaker and weak...er
I have to go with the majority opinion here, one of your batteries is bad. A good set of batteries will crank a multifuel for a long, long time before they tire out, especially so in warm weather. Go to your local auto parts store and buy a battery hydrometer, they are only a few bucks. Test the specific gravity of the acid in each cell of both batteries. Chances are you will find one cell with a much lower SG that the other 11 cells.

Tom's suggestion is pretty much the same thing, although a little less scientific and a bit more dangerous. For the price, a hydrometer is a great investment and a great diagnostic tool to determine when your batteries are getting tired out.

If not, next step is the starter as mentioned, although that would be a much rarer case.
 

houdel

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The correct batteries are a 6TL, also know as a U6TL. NAPA has them for around $170, Interstate makes them as well. Interstate pricing is set by the retailer and ranges from $170 to under a hundred bucks, so it pays to shop around. Interstate has a retailer locater on their website so check prices with everyone in your area. Sometimes your retailer can get U6TL blems with cosmetic defects to the case but otherwise perfect for $50 or less. I paid $105 for the Interstate battery I bought.
 

tklm539

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Bolton Landing NY
The saga continues.....

I took the truck in to the shop today:

Alternator is charging

No dead Battery Cells

Starter is not holding up.

I was told that the batteries were simply loosing charge because the truck was sitting for a few weeks at a time. "Sounds fishy to me but I am no expert"

The suggestion was to either replace the batteries or put an automatic trickle charger on it when the truck is going to sit for some time.

The latter sounds better to me. I found the following site with all sorts of chargers. Seems like a bank charger that could mount in the cab and be attached to the batteries would be a good way to go. Not sure how many amps I should be getting. Here is the site if anyone could make a suggestion please let me know what is a good one to buy.

http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/24-volt/

Thanks again,

Tom
 

DDoyle

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Hmmmm....well you MAY have a something bleeding off the power, that is an easy enough problem to check. If the truck only is to be used occassionally, charge the batteries, and disconnect the ground cable from the neg post. Come back in the prescribed amount of time and see how things are.

No offense, but it sounds like either you don't have 6TL batteries in the truck (info is CAST into the sides of the battery cases - gotta take them out of the boxes to see), or you are talking to someone local who does not have experience with these batteries. I've left my trucks for MONTHS at the time and they will start without hesitation.

HTH,
David
 
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