Need fuel injection pump gear hub wrench

[Woodsplinter]

Looking for one to change out the IP on my M35A2 multifuel. Anybody know a current source for one?
Thanks!

 

[Woodsplinter]

Here's what it looks like

 

[m-35tom]

you only need the wrench to take the IP apart. to remove it from the engine, just take out the 3 bolts after you have aligned ALL the correct timing marks.
why are you taking the IP off? it is easier to just replace the HH since that is 99.99% all that fails.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, that is not needed to swap pumps. Loosen the 3 bolts, use a socket on the center nut to time the IP, tighten the 3 bolts down, and button everything up.

 

[m-35tom]

it is almost that easy, but many people continue to get the timing 180° out!

 

[Woodsplinter]

The current IP is leaking oil from around the arm the accelerator cable attaches to. Haven't been able to resolve that. Also engine seems to be losing prime as it stumbles and is difficult to start first start of the day. This only started about 2 months ago but has been leaking for about a year.
Recently ran across a complete IP (depot rebuild) for about the same price as the HH so I bought it.

Thanks for clearing up the tool issue- I saw that in the TM but didn't realize it is only needed for disassembly. Sounds like it is simpler than the TM describes.

 

[m-35tom]

just be sure you understand the function of the red / scribed tooth in the shut off cover window and the timing pointer in the timing cover window. the red tooth must be visable when the timing pointer lines up with the rotating disk of the advancer unit. it does not really matter where the red tooth is and it will not line up with anything. that is the easiest way to describe it, the red tooth will always be one tooth to the rear of a pointer that is for disassembly, not timing. get all this set with the old IP and then set the same with the new one and it will start right up.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Should I set all that up on the old IP before removing it then set new IP up the same way?

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yes. PM if you feel you'll need phone support.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Ok got it. Thanks Gimp- I'll definitely let you know if I get stuck!

Mark

 

[archer67]

What happens when the timing is 180 degrees off?

 

[silverstate55]

it is almost that easy, but many people continue to get the timing 180° out!

LOL, YES, that was me (among others)...I'll never do THAT again!

What happens when the timing is 180 degrees off?

The engine either won't start at all (like mine), or it will stumble & run terribly. Trust me, there's only one reason for that once you remove the IP: you are 180-degrees off. You MUST remove the forward valve cover & verify the valve positions before you reinstall the IP to ensure proper timing.

 

[m-35tom]

What happens when the timing is 180 degrees off?

hard to start, black smoke, runs poorly, low power.

 

[archer67]

The Reason I asked was I bought a Deuce from friend of a friend who after a tour in Afganistan came home to a truck that would not start(no fuel to the injectors). He started to take the injector pump apart and left it that way for a year or so. I changed the pump following the TMs ( checked the valve position) seems to run good just real hard start when cold below freezing (needs a shot of starting fluid from the cold start kit or a short shot in the air intake) I have driven through some large fields and a few miles down a country rd to its indoor winter home seemed to have plenty of power. in the summer it starts good ,the first time usually takes a little longer than the rest of the starts that day that day. Any ideas?

 

[m-35tom]

is the timing set exactly right? 10° at the crank is only about .001" at the piston, it means a lot to be exact. could also be an air leak at some fitting alowing fuel to drain back, or dirty filters. sitting for a length of time should not be an issue, i started a multifuel up that had been parked for 18 years, started in about 10 seconds of cranking.

 

[orren]

you only need the wrench to take the IP apart. to remove it from the engine, just take out the 3 bolts after you have aligned ALL the correct timing marks.
why are you taking the IP off? it is easier to just replace the HH since that is 99.99% all that fails.

Tom,

I'm trying to take the HH off but can't turn the plunger bore screw on top. Is it necessary to remove this to get HH off?

Thanks for the help,
Orren

 

[m-35tom]

no, but it is necessary to read and understand the instructions given here in many posts or you will have nothing but problems.

 

[snakehunter1964]

What happens when the timing is 180 degrees off?

It might still run (especially if you shoot some starting juice in the intake) but it will blow gray smoke and not idle. Spoken from experience from my first IP replacement when not reading the TM closely enough.

 

[snakehunter1964]

No, you don't have to remove it to remove the HH.

They are often EXTREMELY tight. It's a metal on metal seal so they have to get snugged really tight to seal.

I recommend a 1/2" drive ratchet. A Craftsman 3/8" might experience catastrophic failure. Another personal experience tells me so.