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Need help asap

downrangecop

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Okay. Last post I told of my starter grenading and wires shorting. Was told of the doghead mod, which I finished today. Problem now is complicated: the guy at kragen gave me a 12v starter, which he INSISTED was right. He swore there is NO 24 volt part and said I could bring it back for a full refund. Follow the doghead mod and replacing the burnt wires, I went to hook up the battery (with the wrong starter of course) and the second I connect the first battery the starter was screaming with no keys in the ignition! I pulled the starter, got my refund, and overnighted a starter due here tomorrow. But will this all repeat over again?!? Again, the doghead is successful. The wires are upgraded to 10gauge. The new starter is actually correct. Will this solve it or is there another piece in the electrical puzzle? Any help is deeply appreciated.
 

Recovry4x4

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Sounds like the relay may be wired incorrectly sending current to the starter as soon as there is power.
 

doghead

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Your description above sounds incorrect(the way I am interpreting what you have).

The red and the purple go on the top studs(1/4" studs). The black and the purple with white tracer go on the bottom terminals.


DHW is my wife.
 

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doghead

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Then you need to do some testing with a meter, before installing another starter. Something else is wrong.
 

doghead

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Maybe you can show us the wires you replaced?

I have no idea what you have "fixed"

If this was covered in your other thread, a link would help. (I would have just continued your original thread)
 

raiburn

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If you don't orient the big battery cable on the starter correctly, it contacts the signal wire stud, and cranks up as soon as you touch the cable to battery, just as you described. If you put the wires on after you bolt up the starter. You can't see it. When you get your new starter, bolt the wires on before you bolt the starter to the motor.
Those pics do not look like good times.
 

doghead

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I cannot identify all the wires you fixed, from those pictures.

At least one of the wires you replaced was a fusible link, it is needed to save the rest of the truck wiring, in a situation like you recently had.

You need to download the -20 TM and look at the schematics to identify each wire you replaced and you really should use a new fusible link, not a heavier wire.

LO 9-2320-289-12 is the Lubrication Order
TM 9-2320-289-10 is the Operator's Manual
TM 9-2320-289-20 is the Unit Maintenance Manual
TM 9-2320-289-20P is the Unit Parts Manual
TM 9-2320-289-34 is the Intermediate Maintenance Manual
TM 9-2320-289-34P is the Intermediate Parts Manual
TM 9-2815-237-34 is the Direct Support Manual for the 6.2L and 6.5L Diesels

Wiring Diagrams are located in Appendix F of the -20 and Appendix E of the -34
 
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SmokeyDod

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On pic #3 is looks like your main + cable from the junction box got "shorted" directly out by the battery hold down frame. Those frame are coated w/rubber but it wears off & should never be bolted down firmly on any batt cable. That could be alot of your whole problem. Also be sure you get a 24v starter AND solonoid. I think your cable is real issue here.
 

BIG_RED

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Check the purple wire with white strip at your new solenoid. Make sure ignition switch gives no power unless in "start" position. Ign switches can go bad.
 
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