Need help deciding to buy M1009

[bullfrog]

New to the site and been searching for info on CUCV's and found this site to look about the best and most informed so hoping you all can help me out and overlook the "another what's it worth thread". I am a Jeep guy and moderate a couple of sites as well as our Jeep Club website so I know how people feel about certian repeated questions.

My work place is selling their old M1009 and I'm thinking about putting a bid in on it. Not sure what to watch for or check as well as a good value to shoot for. It is sealed bidding so..... ?

Here is the info:

It is a 1984 CUCV Blazer camo all original with 30,000 miles or so, very little surface rust on the inside of the rockers, small dent in the rear gate - window still rolls down fine. Everything works as far as I know other than the batteries are dead right now. We got it running last week after jumping it with a car and a battery charger. Has 90% tread on 31" GoodYear Workhorse tires and a brand new spare mounted on the front grill, looks military for the spare setup?

What should I look for and what is a good price range?
Bidding ends on Monday at 14:00 CST.

 

[mkcoen]

Military spare tire setup is behind the rear seat on the passenger side. Set up on front end sounds like a Forest Service modification.

A couple of weeks ago GL had about 10 Blazers go from $1000 up to around $2500. It's one of those "how long is a piece of string" questions. Lots of variables that add or detract from the value.

One plus is you don't have to worry about transporting it from a site that could be hundreds or thousands of miles away. You get to go over the vehicle as thoroughly as you want. You should have some history on it if it's your employers.

You can look at prices on eBay as well. I've seen ones go there between $1500 and $5000.


If the one you're looking at is solid, decent interior (especially the dash), runs good, etc. I'd say it's worth whatever your budget can handle up to $3k or so. If I was looking at one locally in that condition I would think $2500 would be a good price.

 

[bht50]

if it helps any the city I work for just auctioned off a 84 m1009 that was in poor shape. Lots of rust I mean holes in the floor rust (the city used it to plow snow) and no batteries had not been started in over a year with poor interior condition and it still went for 700 dollars.

 

[stampy]

You will love it! Great vehicle! I got mine for 1500.00 but would have paid 2K to 2500. for one in real good shape. If it needs batteries that is like 359$ for optimas or if you can get Dekas... more. Good Luck!!!!!!

 

[bullfrog]

Thanks for the input so far.

It was given to us from the Army National Guard, clear and free about 8 years ago.

I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow to post up, maybe the numbers and letters on this thing will mean something to you guys? It is hard to bid when it is a closed auction, I hate to bid more than I could have gotten it for. But would hate to lose it by just a few dollars too.

My main thought for a use on it is just to tinker with, drive around for fun, and use during deer and turkey season.

 

[WildWolfman]

well I would have to say, put in what you would pay for, cant go wrong.

 

[Pawnshop]

You will not regret the purchase, I have had mine for a week and am in LOVE! I intend to use mine as a daily driver, 20mpg on the highway is nothing to sneeze at, and around here diesel is .10-.15 a gallon cheaper than gas which makes it even sweeter.

 

[stampy]

Waste veg oil makes it even sweeter!!!!!

 

[bullfrog]

Do you have to do a conversion of some sort to run that or will the 6.2 run it already? If so, can you mix with regualr diesel?

The only experience I have with deisel is one of our AGCO farm tractors, and never had an issue where it needed to be worked on.

Plan on getting some pics later this morning and will get them posted this afternoon.

 

[stampy]

I blend mine about 80/20 veg to diesel. Then I centrifuge it to remove any trash, but you could just filter it. The stock fuel filter on your 1009 is junk. I replaced mine with a new fuel filter and housing from Walmart(back in boating section) 24$ then the filters cost you 7$, you will also need a couple of fittings from the hardware store. The filters are spin on so you can fill them before you put them on. In my opinion this setup runs great! I have no problems with it. The old filters clogged up too easily and were real hard to deal with because you had to wait for them to fill and almost kill your battery and starter trying to get them to fill after replacement. My fuel cost is about 6 $ a tank. I have been running this in my Benz (300sd ) for years and the only issues I had were prefilters clogging, since I have the centrifuge My prefilters don't clog. A couple of things to know about waste oil, 1. it will clean out your entire fuel system, kind of like a tank of biodiesel, so any crap in the fuel tank will get caught in the filter, but after the first couple of tanks no problems and your fuel system is clean. 2 many will say waste oil is corrosive or can damage parts and they are right... I heat mine to remove dangerous water and drive all the heavy crap to the bottom of my drain tank and drain it off. My pH is typically just slightly acidic as water acts as a great neutalizer. The setup is real simple and once put together cheap to operate. The Centrifuge is the most costly part but pays for itself in filters and hassle in the long run. It takes me about 1 hr every couple of weeks to pick up oil and process as my system runs without me being there

 

[bullfrog]

Here are the pictures.

 

[stampy]

Nice truck

 

[bullfrog]

Sorry, it would not upload them the first time but they are there now. Here are the last two. They were taken with my cell so....

 

[bullfrog]

Anyone know what the lettering means? And did this help narrow down a value for my bidding?

 

[mkcoen]

The tailgate or at least the handle have been changed out as the 1009 handles are black and hard to replace so the reason that one is chrome. Look for additional rust damage under the floor mat. Crawl underneath and check the rockers and floorboard. My last one looked really good until I pulled the floor mat and now I'm wondering if the seat is going to fall through next time I hit a bump. Running boards are not military either.

I'd say with the visible rust damage (including tailgate) you're looking at one in the $2000 range. You'd probably be able to get one on GL cheaper but you won't know the running condition and unless you preview it you might wind up with more rust than this one.

 

[stampy]

I would try GL but so far I am 2 for 2. If it goes above 1500 I would bid on a GL one close to your home so you could look it over and maybe they would let you try to jump start it?

 

[bullfrog]

Will give it a real good look over tomorrow evening.

We added the step bars when we first got it. They are just piping that was bent, added brackets and then bolted on.

Thinking I might bid $1,200 and see what happens.....

 

[lavarok]

That truck would be a steal at 1200....bid more if you want it....is it an online auction?

 

[bullfrog]

Nope sorry not on line. Sealed bid only.

As of last Friday, no one had bid anything on it. However they reserve the right to reject a bid and start over. Which is my other delima, I don't want to be too low and loose becuase of that either. I asked what they considered a low bid and my boss seems to think he can get at least $2,000-$2,500 out of it. I keep pointing out one I saw similar to it condition on Ebay, and it sold for $999 last week, to get him to drop that low bid price. I think I have him pretty convinced.

No one wants to spend more than they "could" have gotten something for. So finding that low, yet accepted price stinks.

 

[bullfrog]

So any input on the lettering and numbers from any of ya?