Need help identifying a part for my LMTV or if I should even be trying to repair it at this point.

[JRKJeeper]

Well operation recover the inoperable M1083 went smoothly. Its now in a spot where it will sit for a month or two during the IL cold. I know most of the parts that are missing and can match them up to my 1078 but I have one part that was loose in the bed and a plug dangling by the battery box I cannot identify. I am hoping the plug wont prevent me from needing to find another disconnect box and be able to just run a disconnect inside the battery box once I trace which wire is which.
UPDATE:
Thank you for the info that its the plug for the air dryer heater on the correct air dryer. As well as the battery hold down.
Todays new problem. I bought this unseen from 100 miles away. I should have figured there was red flags when no on was allowed to go see it because it was down in a gravel mine and I guess there are rules for who is allowed on property.
Price was ok even with what I could see was missing in the pics. Well today I pumped up the cab to see that I had an accurate Idea of what was missing and find this mess! It looks more like there was a fire on the alternator that if it arc'd or something. All the cables that are exposed had the coating burnt off. But as soon as you hit the wire loom the wire is perfect. Small gauge wires are still nice and white. Large 12v and 24 are nice still. From this picture before I dump more money on parts would this seem like something that says stop and part it out? No where else on the engine is there anything like that. Or just buy a new alternator and hope for the best?

 

[JRKJeeper]

Looks like a battery hold down which my 1078 doesnt have but the wire hooked to it is throwing me off

 

[Mullaney]

Well operation recover the inoperable M1083 went smoothly. Its now in a spot where it will sit for a month or two during the IL cold. I know most of the parts that are missing and can match them up to my 1078 but I have one part that was loose in the bed and a plug dangling by the battery box I cannot identify. I am hoping the plug wont prevent me from needing to find another disconnect box and be able to just run a disconnect inside the battery box once I trace which wire is which.

.
First two pictures look like the battery tester.
Hard to know for sure. Maybe pull it out of the dirt / stuff?

The hanging wire should be a heater wire for the air system.

 

[Ronmar]

Looks like the old battery electrolyte level tester, most junk them...

That plug aft of the battery box is a boich connector. That finned dryer typically uses a different plug for the dryer heating element.

Is this an A0 or an A1 truck, cause that is an A0 dryer...

 

[JRKJeeper]

Looks like the old battery electrolyte level tester, most junk them...

That plug aft of the battery box is a boich connector. That finned dryer typically uses a different plug for the dryer heating element.

Is this an A0 or an A1 truck, cause that is an A0 dryer...

This is an A1 truck which they must have swapped the dryer on.

 

[Keith Knight]

The two large lugs look like the went to the slave cable but I thought A1’s had the battery disconnect box there.

 

[JRKJeeper]

The two large lugs look like the went to the slave cable but I thought A1’s had the battery disconnect box there. View attachment 914476

Yes it looks like it had the box and it was removed. I know I’m missing that. I just was unfamiliar with the Bosch plug that is dangling.

 

[NDT]

Be careful, those two cable lugs are not supposed to be bolted together I don't think, one is 12 volt and the other 24 volt feeds to the LBCD.

 

[JRKJeeper]

Be careful, those two cable lugs are not supposed to be bolted together I don't think, one is 12 volt and the other 24 volt feeds to the LBCD.

I think the person who pulled a bunch of parts out did that to stop them from flopping around. Is it safe to wire them back to there respective positions without the disconnect, disconnect relay and nato plug?

 

[NDT]

I think the person who pulled a bunch of parts out did that to stop them from flopping around. Is it safe to wire them back to there respective positions without the disconnect, disconnect relay and nato plug?

Yes but check and double check you have the correct cable feeding the correct voltages! Get it wrong and expensive stuff goes poof.

 

[JRKJeeper]

Yes but check and double check you have the correct cable feeding the correct voltages! Get it wrong and expensive stuff goes poof.

Thank you. Yes I think when the time comes to tackle that part ill just run new wire from the posts up by the spare down to the battery box to know for sure the 24v from the 12v.

 

[JRKJeeper]

updated original post to add in new issues I found under the cab when I got it lifted up this afternoon.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Well that's interesting. Looks like poor connections at the alternator may have caused excessive heat and a fire or the alternator was short circuited or something. You can check the alternator carefully with the troubleshooting guide but I would expect is is probably toast. Before you attempt to operate anything on the truck you should verify ALL the charging system wiring, battery connections, etc.

You also seem to be missing the radiator, intercooler, and all the piping and hoses.

Fix or part out is going to depend on you skill level and parts it came with. The 100A alternator isn't a great loss - they were undersized to begin with for the battery bank that was equipped and many guys want more alternator depending on what they plan to do with the truck anyway. And fixing the wiring physical damage is trivial in the grand scheme of what you are up against. Once it's put back together you may have some interesting troubleshooting to do if things don't just come to life. If too much voltage went through the trucks wiring it could have smoked one or more of the computers - engine, transmission, ABS, CTIS, etc.

 

[JRKJeeper]

Well that's interesting. Looks like poor connections at the alternator may have caused excessive heat and a fire or the alternator was short circuited or something. You can check the alternator carefully with the troubleshooting guide but I would expect is is probably toast. Before you attempt to operate anything on the truck you should verify ALL the charging system wiring, battery connections, etc.

You also seem to be missing the radiator, intercooler, and all the piping and hoses.

Fix or part out is going to depend on you skill level and parts it came with. The 100A alternator isn't a great loss - they were undersized to begin with for the battery bank that was equipped and many guys want more alternator depending on what they plan to do with the truck anyway. And fixing the wiring physical damage is trivial in the grand scheme of what you are up against. Once it's put back together you may have some interesting troubleshooting to do if things don't just come to life. If too much voltage went through the trucks wiring it could have smoked one or more of the computers - engine, transmission, ABS, CTIS, etc.

Yes ive sourced all those parts that werent in the bed with the truck. I was checking my 1078 so I could see piece by piece what was removed by around the radiator. I looked in the PDP in the cab and nothing is burnt. Panel by the spare is perfect, Every other wiring I could get to and check is perfect. Heck like I said the wires are perfect once they hit where they were covered. Almost like the person who removed the radiator and brackets had a torch for bolts and tipped it onto the alternator. As the shorted out wiring ive seen melt would be melted along its total length. Or if it was overheated it would seem to want to melt where it was covered to hold in the heat not where it is exposed. I had decided last night to just use a previous recommendation of yours to switch to just two batteries. But since ive got those parts to put in just to get to where I can safely crank it, I wanted to see if you and the other people much smarter than me thought this was worth trying to resolve. Im good with all the replacing of parts and getting it put back together. I just know that since its a 3126 that an electrical issue could be catastrophic.

 

[NDT]

I would disconnect and tape up the burnt cables and try to start on battery power alone. M1083A1s are not something I would part out just because of some burned wires. I think that may have happened at the gravel pit by someone that tried to slave start the truck that had no clue what he was doing.

 

[JRKJeeper]

I would disconnect and tape up the burnt cables and try to start on battery power alone. M1083A1s are not something I would part out just because of some burned wires. I think that may have happened at the gravel pit by someone that tried to slave start the truck that had no clue what he was doing.

Thank you sir! With 12" of snow tomorrow and then -10 for a week or two I am glad I checked under there today. So Ill have time to source the correct alternator. The slave port is gone on mine. But those 3 battery cables bolted together may have been involved somehow. I message the guy to try and get the real story. Now that its paid for and transported here I told him I cant change my mind but id at least like to know the truth.

 

[coachgeo]

Thank you sir! With 12" of snow tomorrow and then -10 for a week or two I am glad I checked under there today. So Ill have time to source the correct alternator. The slave port is gone on mine. But those 3 battery cables bolted together may have been involved somehow. I message the guy to try and get the real story. Now that its paid for and transported here I told him I cant change my mind but id at least like to know the truth.

as other's hinted at.... not worth getting OEM alternator. Get a 24v alt. 140+amps (200 + if your going to charge camper batts too) and 24v-12v convertor to run the 12v side. You will need to fabricate a alternator bracket. see recent post on how folk have done that by carving out their OEM one.