Need Help With Bodywork M1009

[ssdvc]

About a year and a half ago (maybe a little longer) I noticed some bubbling in several body areas of my "rust free and restored" CUCV. I had noticed the day I got the truck home that one of the rockers was shot (in and out), but that is another story.

Anyway, since I travel for work a lot, I didn't have the time to investigate further. However, after the paint started peeling off and I started getting more bubbles here and there, I finally got the time to take a grinder to her and see what is up. This is what I found……so far:


Aside from the section above the passenger side of the windshield there are rusted through sections directly behind and above both rear wheel wells. (Can't seem to rotate the pictures…weird)



I like my truck (a lot) and don't want this to get any worse. In addition, both rockers, inner and outer, need to be replaced. I can do the paint, it's just the metal work where I fall on my butt. If anyone in the area can lead some expertise I would really appreciate it. I am on a budget (i.e., I don't have much money, but who does these days), but I do keep folks fed and watered (beveraged).

Right now I am in the Lisbon area of Connecticut. Please let me know.

Thank you.

 

[ssdvc]

If anyone in the area knows someone that could do some body work on the side, please let me know. I would like to get these boo boo's fixed sooner than later.

Thank you

 

[NDT]

I can't fix your truck but I can offer some advice. Body shops are notorious for slathering bondo right on top of rust, which is what was done on your truck. If you take it back to a body shop, they will just repeat the process. What YOU need to do before doing body work is kill and remove all the rust. Personally I sandblast those areas, but trust me it makes a mess out of a M1009, with sand coming out from under the dash forever. There are newer methods such as soda blasting which are cleaner. Visit with vendors of these services in your area, or set up with a small blaster yourself, and get down to bare metal, and then prime with epoxy primer. THEN, consider having the body work redone.

 

[ducer]

As some one who has repaired and painted way to many 73-87 Chevy trucks I can tell you it is best to cut out and replace the metal. New front fenders are cheap compared to rust repair and will last a whole lot longer. Buy complete panels when you can, (full inner & outter rocker panels for example) replace at existing seams or spotwelds. I have had excelent results with POR 15 products. Marine clean, Metal ready and POR 15 paint. There are others out there who have had bad luck with them but I attribute that to poor prep work and or not following instructions. You may laugh but I have had good luck with J.C. Whitney panels, sure they need a little masagging to get them to fit properly but any panel you buy will also. I have had and seen factory panels be a total nightmare to fit also be it GM, Ford and especially Chrysler. So good luck, buy a good mig welder and learn basic metalworking techniques. If you were closer I would love to help you, sorry.

Denny

 

[cucvrus]

What is the overall condition of this vehicle? How fussy do you want to be? Are you looking for a show vehicle? Or are you just wanting no rust holes and function? These are what you have to answer first. If you have a limited budget then you need to repair it yourself. Tools are minimum. An electric drill some wire wheels drill bits sandpaper cutting shears and time to do the repairs. You can buy the new parts or get then from donor vehicles at salvage yards. I have great success with low budget repair work. And if finished and painted properly in can add character and make the vehicle unique. After all it has great rust hidden below the surface that has not reared its ugly head yet. I treat each hole with care and repair each one as needed. I have an M1009 that the rockers inner and out were completely gone. I made rockers out of square tubing and capped the tapered ends and welded them to the cab mounts. The best rust inhibiter that I found that is readily available is Rust o leum Rust reformer. It works well and can be bought more easily the any others that are on the market. It is in spray and liquid it is your choice. Remember this the best body man in the world will not and can not stop rust from coming thru 2 inches from where you just did your last repair. If you want rust free a CUCV is not the vehicle you are looking for. They are notorius for rust. That being said join the fight and get to work. You have rust waiting for you. Be not afraid. And may the force be with you. That end was corny but you get the rust.

 

[Whiterabbit]

Standard Chevy repair panels will work. 2 options, do it yourself or find a GOOD body shop and tell them you want to see the repair before any body filler, primer or paint goes on and get it in writing. That will scare the bondo bandits but a good shop will say no problem.
On a cool quiet night you can hear a Chebby rusting.

You can get hold of the guys in a local classic car club, they might know of a good body work guy.