Need help with mep802

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dstang97

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I believe my switch is broken. It won’t send the signal to spin the starter. Also while I was diagnosing it I noticed there are 3 terminals in the starter what is the 3rd one for?
 

mciikurzroot

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While we might "guess" what your calling the SWITCH will you identify it please. As for the 3 terminals on the starter, here again help us out, share the wire numbers that you have feeding the respective two terminals, Have you made the time to download the respective manual/s and review this non start condition. This is likely a simple fix, but more specifics will help please..
best: mac/mc
 

Guyfang

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Like Mac said, we need a bit more to go on. Is this set new to you? Have you ever seen it work right? Do you have the TM's? Will the engine turn over with the S10?
 

dstang97

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Like Mac said, we need a bit more to go on. Is this set new to you? Have you ever seen it work right? Do you have the TM's? Will the engine turn over with the S10?
I have a hard time understanding the manuals. The machine ran, then sat for a year. when you turn the switch at the front panel to prime then start, nothing happens. If you use the dead crank switch it will turn over but not start. I have done some searches and there were 3 different main switches over the years. I took a picture of mine and has 2 jumpers. If that makes any sense
 

Guyfang

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I have a hard time understanding the manuals. The machine ran, then sat for a year. when you turn the switch at the front panel to prime then start, nothing happens. (is the S17 switch pulled out? Have you tested for 24 Volts DC on both sides of the S17, when its pulled out?) If you use the dead crank switch it will turn over but not start. (Its not supposed to start with the S10 switch. Its only to turn the engine over, without starting.) I have done some searches and there were 3 different main switches over the years. I took a picture of mine and has 2 jumpers. If that makes any sense
 

America

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I have a hard time understanding the manuals. The machine ran, then sat for a year. when you turn the switch at the front panel to prime then start, nothing happens. If you use the dead crank switch it will turn over but not start. I have done some searches and there were 3 different main switches over the years. I took a picture of mine and has 2 jumpers. If that makes any sense
Is there power at the controls at all? I think your emergency stop might be pushed in. Best to check the simple things first.
 

dstang97

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My switch is not sending 24v to the starter. I used a meter to figure this out. That’s when I discovered there are 3 terminals on the starter and was wondering which one goes to the switch.
 

kloppk

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Battle Short must be OFF to start the generator. Check that.

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you put S1 in the Prime/Run position?

Do you hear the "clunk" of a solenoid when you move S1 to the PREHEAT position?

Do you hear the "clunk" of a solenoid when you move S1 to the START position?

I'd suggest using your meter and checking for 24 volts along it's path from S17 thru the various components on it's way to the starter.
Check for 24 volts at the following points in sequence with Dean Crank in the NORMAL position.
1) S17 both terminals with wires on them. (Emergency Stop button on the front panel)
2) CB1 both terminals
3) S1 terimnals 2,4,6 & 8 (The main starting switch on the front panel)

If you get 24 volts at the points above then when S1 is in the START position check for 24 volts at the following points in sequence.
4) S1 terminal 8
5) S1 terminal 7
6) K12 terminal 8
7) K12 terminal 2
8 ) K16 terminal 9
9) K16 terminal 6
10) S7 terminal 1
11) S7 terminal 2

If you get 24 volts at all those points then it may be time to take the top cover off and do some measurements at K2 the starter relay.
 

Guyfang

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My switch is not sending 24v to the starter. I used a meter to figure this out. That’s when I discovered there are 3 terminals on the starter and was wondering which one goes to the switch.
The S1 will not send voltage to the starter. It sends it to K2. Thats what Kurt is telling you. And S1-7 is that wire. It goes to the K2, through K12, K16 and S7.

Answering the questions in message #3 would also help.
 

Zed254

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Additional study on the TMs will help you to better understand them. Below are parts of the OPERATION UNDER USUAL CONDITIONS section of TM 9-6115-641-10 Operators Manual. I have highlighted items that can cause start-up problems.

INITIAL ADJUSTMENTS, BEFORE USE AND SELF-TEST
Initial Adjustments
1. Place DEAD CRANK switch in NORMAL position.
2. Push DC CONTROL POWER circuit breaker in.
3. Ensure AC voltage reconnection switch is positioned to match voltage requirements.
END OF TASK
Before Use
Perform all BEFORE PMCS, refer toWP 0011, Table 1.
1. Place VM-AM transfer switch in a position corresponding to output terminal load connections, refer toWP
0004, Table 1.
2. Pull out EMERGENCY STOP pushbutton.
END OF TASK
Self Test
1. Place MASTER SWITCH to PRIME AND RUN position.
2. Press PUSH TEST RESET LAMPS pushbutton on malfunction indicator panel. Ensure all indicator lights are
lit. When PUSH TEST RESET LAMPS pushbutton is released, all lights should go out.
3. Press BATTLE SHORT press-to-test light on the control panel assembly. Ensure indicator light is lit. When
press-to-test light is released, light should go out.
4. Press AC CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER press-to-test light on the control panel assembly. Ensure indicator light is
lit. When press-to-test light is released, light should go out.

1. In cold weather conditions, place MASTER SWITCH to PREHEAT position for approximately 30 seconds.
2. Rotate MASTER SWITCH to START position.
3. Hold MASTER SWITCH in START position until oil pressure reaches at least 25 psi (172 kPa), voltage has
increased to its approximate rated value, and engine has reached stable operating speed.
4. Release MASTER SWITCH to PRIME AND RUN position.
5. If operating with an auxiliary fuel source, rotate MASTER SWITCH to PRIME AND RUN AUX FUEL position.


And there is also the possibility that critters have entered your machine during the 12 month down time and eaten through some wires. Spraying switches with contact cleaner and exercising them will help remove any corrosion, too.
 
Last edited:

Ray70

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West greenwich/RI
I believe he said the emergency stop switch was working, however.... Did you check the DC circuit breaker??
It's inside the control cubicle, to the left of the AC select switch mounted to a bracket, it's right above the alternator charging fuse.
See it has popped out.
 
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