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Need Seal Part Number

ssdvc

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Below is a picture of the tail of the transfer case in my 1009, driveshaft yoke seal. It is leaking a pretty good amount of fluid and needs to be changed.

IMG_3276.JPG

I have two questions please. First, what is the correct part number of the seal assembly??

Two, can it be removed and the new one installed without removing the case from the truck?

Also, while the shaft is out, should I replace the U-joints while I am at it (and who makes good U-joints) ?

Thanks.
 

cucvrus

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9449 National seal
Large, zoomable image of National 9449 Oil Seal. 1 of 1
Remove driveshaft. Is the yoke leaking? It may be the yoke and not the seal. Transfer case stays in place. Any u joints that are made to fit the application are good U joints. Best is the type that are permanently greased. It makes it stronger because it is not hollowed out and besides once installed it is darn near impossible to get the grease zerk accessible. he OEM were sealed and non greaseable and many are still running down the road 35 years later. Where will the truck be in anther 35 years? Good Luck. I tap the flange of the seal with a drift punch, clamp a vise grip to the driven out flange and hammer the vise grips. But like any leak make sure that is the leak. The transfer case was not over hauled. Good Luck.
Amazon.com: National 9449 Oil Seal : Automotive
 

ssdvc

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639
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Location
CT
I am just checking to make sure I am ordering the correct parts for me M1009.

Rear Main Seal - https://www.autozone.com/internal-engine/rear-main-seal/p/fel-pro-rear-main-seals-bs40529/67873_0_0
Transmission Tail Shaft bearing (where the slip yoke for the rear drive shaft goes in - https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...+9449&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false
Tail shaft Bushing - Couldn't find a part number for that. Also don't know if it is replaceable with everything still in the truck.

While I am in there, I will replace the rear driveshaft U-joints (X2) - https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/u-joint/p/spicer-u-joint-5-1350x/895560_0_0

The only thing in stock around here is the rear Main seal, so if anybody could confirm to make sure these are the correct parts before I order, thank would be great.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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639
93
Location
CT
So, I got around to addressing the transfer case/trans leaks. Used this seal for the rear transfer case seal. https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...+9449&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false . As you can see, aside from the marks and damage to the metal part of the seal from trying to get it out (it looks like an original), the rubber seal was way past it's usefulness.

IMG_3727.JPGIMG_3726.JPGIMG_3731.JPG

It was leaking quite a bit of fluid from that seal and I thnk the bad u-joints probably had something to do with it (they were changed at the same time). Making progress towards a leak free M1009 (ok, it's a pipe dream, but it's MY pipe dream !!). 😁:cool:
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
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639
93
Location
CT
If it was replaced in 2015 (no reason to doubt that) and I have only put on 13,000 (+-) since then, I guess the wear was accelerated by the bad U-Joints. Good lesson I learned is to keep checking rotating parts and replace when needed, or before, if convenient.

I'll be doing the radiator soon and while I have the room, I think the water pump (unless you replaced that during the rebuild) and harmonic balancer (along with hoses and stat) would be good candidates for replacement.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I probably didn't change the water pump. I live by if it ain't broke don't fix it. I only change water pumps when they leak out the weep hold. Besides genuine GM water pumps are long extinct. The stuff that says A C Delco is just offshore reproductions and I don't care where it is built. If it fits and it works that is the perfect part for me. I seen import parts on domestic vehicles all the way back in 1982. Don't be fooled. And it really doesn't matter. Drive on.
 
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