Well, it was ok starting for a while. Then out of nowhere it will not start up. So here is what i got. i think its getting fuel( white smoke out the back smells like diesel). Relay cycles. Did what it said in the TMs to check the glow plugs, and everything is good. New starter and batteries, has good cranking speed. Some days it was 60 out and still would not start. ANy help would be great! Really want to get her back on the road thx! mike
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Need some help with a 84M1009 Will not start
- Thread starter 84cucv
- Start date
mangus580
New member
- 6,010
- 282
- 0
- Location
- Western NY
Mike, have you checked for air in the system? I suspect this will be your problem.
bassplayer88
New member
- 36
- 0
- 0
ok 84cucv,
If your feeling the glow plugs are heating try checking the fuel shutoff switch voltage.. diesel smell may be from fuel left in the injector lines, but fuel shutoff switch is still closed. Follow the pink (10awg I think) wire to the I/P . Turn key on , check with a voltmeter DC should be 12v . From experience, these I/P's shutoff switch will not open at 11.5 or 11.7 volts . They will stay open, and allow the engine to run , with lower voltage to around 8v . But once you shut it off, it will not open till it gets 12v.
TURN KEY OFF
12v =no trace the pink wire for cuts , disconnections
12v = yes , disconnect the pink wire and clean the contacts (male & female) , reconnect and retry
Did it start ?
Yes = Good job go have fun
No = Possible bad fuel shutoff on the I/P
Hope this helps
If your feeling the glow plugs are heating try checking the fuel shutoff switch voltage.. diesel smell may be from fuel left in the injector lines, but fuel shutoff switch is still closed. Follow the pink (10awg I think) wire to the I/P . Turn key on , check with a voltmeter DC should be 12v . From experience, these I/P's shutoff switch will not open at 11.5 or 11.7 volts . They will stay open, and allow the engine to run , with lower voltage to around 8v . But once you shut it off, it will not open till it gets 12v.
TURN KEY OFF
12v =no trace the pink wire for cuts , disconnections
12v = yes , disconnect the pink wire and clean the contacts (male & female) , reconnect and retry
Did it start ?
Yes = Good job go have fun
No = Possible bad fuel shutoff on the I/P
Hope this helps
Bassplayer88, did what you said. Everything checked out. Got some air out of the lines as well. relay is no longer bringing the 24V down to 12V. ithink the gp are getting a full 24v. Now my other CUCV will not start. Sorry to say my patents are done. Thie has been going on for a few weeks now. i dont know a lot about these trucks either. Is there any guys into these trucks in NJ?? I will pay you for your time to come look and i hope fix my trucks.
IBEZKUM
Member
- 46
- 1
- 8
- Location
- Jamestown Rhode Island
Hey, 84cucv
If its the glow plugs, and you need to get it running,
To get it worked on. Try This,
Take the Top off the air cleaner,
Put a Hair Dryer right in the intake manifold, Warm it up really good.
(Both sides) Then put it in the drivers side, Keep it running,
Get in the truck and crank it over,, Should start right up!!
It knocks a bit,, sounds like it's passin air,, but clears right up
The hot air mixes with the fuel, and lights it off!!
Hope it works for you,, works for me!!
GOOD LUCK!!
If its the glow plugs, and you need to get it running,
To get it worked on. Try This,
Take the Top off the air cleaner,
Put a Hair Dryer right in the intake manifold, Warm it up really good.
(Both sides) Then put it in the drivers side, Keep it running,
Get in the truck and crank it over,, Should start right up!!
It knocks a bit,, sounds like it's passin air,, but clears right up
The hot air mixes with the fuel, and lights it off!!
Hope it works for you,, works for me!!
GOOD LUCK!!
- 5,250
- 3,959
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
Sounds like dead plugs to me.
I used to have all kinds of starting problems when I first got my CUCV back in the mid-90's (back in the day before these handy forums). A variety of different things caused it including wrong glow-plugs in it when I bought it because the resistor packs were missing. They had wired the glow plug solenoid to 24v and had some kind of tractor glow plugs in it. They were shot and the tips were swollen. I put brand new 13G plugs in and it started great maybe 2 or 3 times until the new plugs were fried. Then I discovered that there should be resistor packs stepping the voltage down. I bought those and another set of 13Gs. That worked great for a while until the glow solenoid failed and stayed on, frying another set of plugs, sonofa%$^$#!! Back when plugs kept going out I went to all kinds of means to get it running including pouring buckets of hot water over the block. Also, after disconnecting the glow harness, I ethered it numerous times. Use ether at your own risk and definitely unhook the glow harness. It WILL absolutely get the truck running if you have fuel to the injectors. A little dab will do ya! Too much and you will hydro-lock the engine. Back when my plugs were shot you could crank and crank and it would billow the white smoke until it would finally start hitting on one or two cylinders and would run on its own eventually.
I know exactly how frustrating it can be when your CUCV won't start as mine was my daily driver for over 10 years. I used to run the batts down on a regular basis trying to get it started.
You'll get the bugs worked out eventually. After replacing another set of plugs, a glow relay, and a control board, my system worked flawlessly for about 5 years not counting how many times my #2 alt took a dump
Double check your glow plugs either with a test light or by removing the plugs and hooking one end to 12v pos and grounding the threaded part to chassis. Just don't burn yourself!
I used to have all kinds of starting problems when I first got my CUCV back in the mid-90's (back in the day before these handy forums). A variety of different things caused it including wrong glow-plugs in it when I bought it because the resistor packs were missing. They had wired the glow plug solenoid to 24v and had some kind of tractor glow plugs in it. They were shot and the tips were swollen. I put brand new 13G plugs in and it started great maybe 2 or 3 times until the new plugs were fried. Then I discovered that there should be resistor packs stepping the voltage down. I bought those and another set of 13Gs. That worked great for a while until the glow solenoid failed and stayed on, frying another set of plugs, sonofa%$^$#!! Back when plugs kept going out I went to all kinds of means to get it running including pouring buckets of hot water over the block. Also, after disconnecting the glow harness, I ethered it numerous times. Use ether at your own risk and definitely unhook the glow harness. It WILL absolutely get the truck running if you have fuel to the injectors. A little dab will do ya! Too much and you will hydro-lock the engine. Back when my plugs were shot you could crank and crank and it would billow the white smoke until it would finally start hitting on one or two cylinders and would run on its own eventually.
I know exactly how frustrating it can be when your CUCV won't start as mine was my daily driver for over 10 years. I used to run the batts down on a regular basis trying to get it started.
You'll get the bugs worked out eventually. After replacing another set of plugs, a glow relay, and a control board, my system worked flawlessly for about 5 years not counting how many times my #2 alt took a dump
Double check your glow plugs either with a test light or by removing the plugs and hooking one end to 12v pos and grounding the threaded part to chassis. Just don't burn yourself!
CCATLETT1984
New member
- 3,507
- 5
- 0
- Location
- Saint Clair Shores, MI
I had an issue with the resistor bank on my truck, ended up removing the resistor bank and running the GP's off of the front battery only (run the source wire from the 12v lug on the firewall to the gp solenoid). It does put a little more stress on the front battery, but shouldn't be enough to make a difference. I also wired mine to a manual switch. (If you run the switch to control the ground line of the solenoid, then you can control when it comes on and still have the light in the dash work.) It's been working great for over a year now.
I got a set of aftermarket GP's from SSDIESEL.com , they work great; supposed to be faster heating and they are not supposed to swell (self-limiting) + 2 year warrenty.
I got a set of aftermarket GP's from SSDIESEL.com , they work great; supposed to be faster heating and they are not supposed to swell (self-limiting) + 2 year warrenty.
CCATLETT1984
New member
- 3,507
- 5
- 0
- Location
- Saint Clair Shores, MI
you can check the GP's with a multimeter, should be low ohms if still good, I'll check one of my extra's and post the numbers for you. If I remember off hand, anything over 300-350 means a dead plug (could be a decimal in there somewhere. )
once you get the gp issue worked out you should be able to start the truck without any problems.
)once you get the gp issue worked out you should be able to start the truck without any problems.
mangus580
New member
- 6,010
- 282
- 0
- Location
- Western NY
Check out the article that is in our Tech Article section here
CCATLETT1984
New member
- 3,507
- 5
- 0
- Location
- Saint Clair Shores, MI
if you ignore the part about splicing the wait light wire, you can use the wait light as a guide on how long to hold the button down (assuming that you still have the controller card in your truck), that way you don't use the plugs when the truck is warm (but still know when its just cool enough that it wants the plugs.
RE: the resistance of a good GP
mine are registering 0.9 (with the range set to 200 ohms)
the 300-350 measurement must have been the bad plugs (I can't remember anymore).
RE: the resistance of a good GP
mine are registering 0.9 (with the range set to 200 ohms)
the 300-350 measurement must have been the bad plugs (I can't remember anymore).