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Never thought I'd be posting about a turbo

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nyoffroad

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I fell into a deal that I really couldn't say no to. I picked up a complete 6.5 turbocharger including both intake and exhaust manifolds, crossover pipe, 3" down pipe, oil lines, and a spare turbocharger and some other turbo parts I'm forgetting. Included in the deal is all the parts to put on a serpentine belt, water and power steering pumps crank pully, new alternator, and a bunch of other brackets including A/C. The guy also tossed in a new gasket set and set of head studs. All for $500, I think I got a good deal. I hate searching for and piecing things together and this is everything I need in on package. Unfortunately I can't start on the project for awhile till I get some others knocked out.
The engine this will be going on is on a stand right now, I'm going to pull the intake and IP and send the IP and injectors out for a rebuild. Anything else I should do before getting to far into this? The engine is stock with less than 30,000 mi and even thou it ran great I already did head gaskets and checked the heads for cracks. This will be run with a low psi of boost, I'm old and past the "flat to the floor stage".
 
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87cr250r

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There are 3 options. The Banks kit which puts the turbo forward on the right manifold. This will probably cause problems with your battery locations. The 90's OEM manifolds put the turbo to the rear end this prevents you from having stock AC. The 96+ vans had the center mount setup which is very clean but will require extensive modification of your firewall. I can't tell you the scope of modification yet because I haven't figured it out yet. I will tell you that the gas pedal interference is the hardest part.
 
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nyoffroad

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Well, I dropped the IP and injectors off to have them gone thru and looking at the truck I realized I'm going to need a different exhaust system! Pity, the dual set on it now is like new ;( . Any suggestions? I haven't measured it yet but the down pipe looks to be about 3" ,if so should I run 3" all the way back? I did a quick look and found nothing online for an 84 6.2L and 3" pipe, is custom made my only option?
 
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Ilikemtb999

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The 6.5 downpipe will not work on a square body, it will have to be custom, you can snake it thru between the block and frame rail and having good motor mounts makes a big difference. You can also run it outside of the frame but it doesnt leave a lot of room for a muffler or to get it to the rear cleanly. I would stick with 3", aftermarket 6.5 exhaust goes to 4" after it's under the vehicle.

The drivers 6.5 exhaust manifold is right in the way of the frame so I opted to keep the 6.2 manifold and modify an aftermarket crossover to clear, I have it tucked up against the bell housing cover.

I ran a stock gm4 turbo for many years and upgraded to a used hx35 off of a 12v cummins. Made a world of difference at both stages.
 
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nyoffroad

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I'm assembling everything on the engine stand mostly to see how it all goes together. Where do most people tap into the oil system for the turbo supply? From what I can see online with a 6.5 it looks like it comes from the front of the block on the right hand side? I'm looking at running a line from the left rear where the oil pressure sending unit is. I believe tee-ing that off should give me plenty of oil, correct?

In the past I mentioned a tube on trucks with manual transmissions, that tube is pictured in image 1. The tube is just in cast fuel leaks from the IP it will drain the fuel away from the clutch instead of ruining it.
In the second image is where that tube exits, I thought all block where drilled for it but they are NOT! Luckily this one is.
And the last image is self explanatory
 

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adf5565

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nyoffroad said:
I'm assembling everything on the engine stand mostly to see how it all goes together. Where do most people tap into the oil system for the turbo supply? From what I can see online with a 6.5 it looks like it comes from the front of the block on the right hand side? I'm looking at running a line from the left rear where the oil pressure sending unit is. I believe tee-ing that off should give me plenty of oil, correct?

In the past I mentioned a tube on trucks with manual transmissions, that tube is pictured in image 1. The tube is just in cast fuel leaks from the IP it will drain the fuel away from the clutch instead of ruining it.
In the second image is where that tube exits, I thought all block where drilled for it but they are NOT! Luckily this one is.
And the last image is self explanatory
Click to expand...
I believe most people on a 6.2 tap into the plug above the oil cooler lines for the turbo oil supply. I’d assume it would also work teed off the sender but you might get low readings on your oil pressure gauge.

Looking good!
 

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nyoffroad

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Rochester NY
Engine went in today and found out that I could not use the left 6.5 exhaust manifold as the clutch slave cylinder is in the way.
So the 6.2 mani went back on, that leads to the problem of the cross over pipe not fitting, if it's one thing it's another.
I'm thinking of trimming the right hand inner apron an running the down pipe thru that and then back along the OUTSIDE of the frame rail with a muffler under the bed, I'd probably fab up a heat shield for under the cab. That would keep a lot of heat away from the starter and to be honest I don't see how it (the down pipe) would fit inside the rail! I'll post up a few pics soon.
 
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Ilikemtb999

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yep, 6.5 drivers won't fit. I just cut and modified the aftermarket crossover to work with my 6.2 manifold. The downpipe is hard, there's barely enough room between the manifold and frame rail IF you have good motor mounts. Running outside the frame is not ideal but is the path of least resistance.
 
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87cr250r

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The OEM mounts are no longer available. The aftermarket rubber mounts sag and go metal to metal in 6 months. With that said, the poly mounts transfer less noise than any available rubber mounts.

FYI, there are two sizes of poly mounts. Make sure you get the big size. I believe 3.1121 is the correct Energy Suspension part number.

Polyurethane is popular for aftermarket because it is castable so it takes minimal investment to make a small production run. It's advertised as being firmer to appeal to the performance crowd but that may or may not be true for motor mounts.
 
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