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New Acquisition, M1097R1 Helmet Top

K

KKroger

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6.5L NA 3L80, Runs Great, Drives Great, Price paid was great. Just delivered yesterday.

Transmission Fluid was Clean and Red, Oil was clean and clear, coolant green, have not had time or weather in the last 24 hours to do anything other than test drive and bring it home. single digits suck.



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Mullaney

Mullaney

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KKroger said:
Transmission Fluid was Clean and Red, Oil was clean and clear, coolant green, have not had time or weather in the last 24 hours to do anything other than test drive and bring it home. single digits suck.



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Welcome to the Outfit!

Be sure to at least download the -10 TM Technical Manual so you don't smoke your start box! It isn't a good read, but just perusing the book will save you plenty of money.

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C

Coug

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We also have them in the TM section here on this site as well

TMs for the M998-Series HMMWV

Listed below are a number of the TM's for the M998 series trucks. To save them to your computer, right click, select "save as". TM-9-2320-280-34.pdf TM-9-2320-280-34 Direct support and general support maintenance for the M998 series trucks. TM-9-2320-280-20-1.pdf TM-9-2320-280-20-1...
steelsoldiers.com

The M1097R1 are an oddball case that aren't specifically listed in the manuals.
When looking through the manuals you will want to use the M1097A1 listed parts and procedures for your 3 speed truck.
 
K

KKroger

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Swapped the start switch to a keyed switch today... easy stuff, removed that orange ratchet strap... Drivers side rear door the latch had been set and not re-opened. then evidently GI Joe BEAT it shut and strapped it down. the post was bent in, I hung a box end on it and bent it back out. door works fine. I already ordered prophylactically two latches, a set of "Mushroom" type posts and Double locking door handles. so once they arrive I will be set on that front.
 
Milcommoguy

Milcommoguy

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KKroger said:
Swapped the start switch to a keyed switch today... easy stuff, removed that orange ratchet strap... Drivers side rear door the latch had been set and not re-opened. then evidently GI Joe BEAT it shut and strapped it down. the post was bent in, I hung a box end on it and bent it back out. door works fine. I already ordered prophylactically two latches, a set of "Mushroom" type posts and Double locking door handles. so once they arrive I will be set on that front.
Click to expand...
Swapped the start switch to a keyed switch today... easy stuff.... Don't lose the military one.

Could be a big problem, tomorrow. CAMO
 
K

KKroger

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Pretty sure it wasn't the key switch... the belts departed and the alternator pully is crap and the keyway is ground out to set the wrong woodruff key at an angle and it allowed the pulley to walk back and forth and waller out a place in the pulley... New Pulley on the way and I'll pull the alternator and see if I can mill a keyway for a square key in there. Had a buddy who is the KING of half assed suggest drilling and tapping the pulley for set screws... sigh...
 

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K

KKroger

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Location
KC MO
Mainsail said:
The general consensus is the keyed switches destroy the start box, which is an expensive repair. There are better options.
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I seriously doubt it is the switch causing the issue as quite a few trucks burnt to the ground with the OE switch while still in military custody.
But, I didn't like the "feel" of the key switch so I went back to a new OE switch as the one I took out hung in the "START" position you had to manually return it to run, and the shaft had been ground on to get the knob to fit. it is good to go now.
 
Mogman

Mogman

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KKroger said:
I seriously doubt it is the switch causing the issue as quite a few trucks burnt to the ground with the OE switch while still in military custody.
But, I didn't like the "feel" of the key switch so I went back to a new OE switch as the one I took out hung in the "START" position you had to manually return it to run, and the shaft had been ground on to get the knob to fit. it is good to go now.
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One problem is 99% of key switches cannot handle the massive reverse EMF from the starter solenoid and arc internally, this for sure has caused the destruction of many starters and very likely some EESS boxes.
Even switches that are made for 24V big trucks only control a small relay that is designed to handle the reverse EMF so the key switch is not subjected to that in those applications.
 
C

Coug

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KKroger said:
I seriously doubt it is the switch causing the issue as quite a few trucks burnt to the ground with the OE switch while still in military custody.
But, I didn't like the "feel" of the key switch so I went back to a new OE switch as the one I took out hung in the "START" position you had to manually return it to run, and the shaft had been ground on to get the knob to fit. it is good to go now.
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Burning to the ground and internal damage to the start box are two different things.
Plenty of documented cases on here of a keyed switch damaging the start box, requiring it's replacement. More than a few people argue that their keyed switch works just fine for however long it's been in, but also plenty that come back later and say it failed later on. They work until they don't, and considering there are other ways to add security that don't risk a $1000 component, we actively recommend against using them. Not our truck though, so doesn't cost us anything if someone doesn't agree with us.

The mod that catches trucks on fire is changing from the 3 lever light switch to the push button light switch.
 
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