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New axles, 14 bolt floating good deal?

SandBar

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I have a chance to purchase a good 3.73 geared 14 bolt rear out of a 1 ton. It is a floater and locker. No leaks, guy is willing to part with it for 275.00. Comes with larger drum breaks and springs still attached.

1.) Good swap for the CUCV?
2.) Good price?
 

2002ford

New member
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dayton,oh
Its a good price for a full floating 14 bolt. It will be 8 lug so if you have a M1009 you will have mismatched rims.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
Sounds like a pretty good price for a complete 1 ton axle.

Few questions:
-Is your truck a 1009 or 1008/28?
-What are you planning on doing for the front axel?
-Are you sure it has a 3.73 ratio?

Check the fluid in it to make sure it doesn't show signs of abuse, dirt, contamination. Maybe even ask if you can open it up (then you can be sure it's in good shape and exactly what ratio it is). Probably a good idea to change the fluid in it regardless.
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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GA/FL
M1009, Front will be a dana 44 or 60 depending on price. Looking for a fairly easy swap but will relocate perches if needed (have mig, I am a noob welder). He said it came out of some type of RV and confirmed 3.73 gears. I have that gearing now, and want to run 35 or 37 HMMV tires. Whole reason for the swap is I was told 37's would kill the stock axles.
 

rickf

Well-known member
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Keep in mind that you will have grossly mismatched brakes also. Your best bet is to go with a matching 60 in the front. Then get a master cylinder for a one ton.
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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GA/FL
I appreciate all the info. Putting a 1 ton free floating in the rear, what will I need to modify? Just perches?
 

rickf

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I think you have to move the perches, You will probably need an adapter u-joint that fits the shaft and the rear. These are a common number that I do not remember but someone will have it. The E-brake cables I honestly do not remember. It has been a long time since I did a swap and the old memory is not what it used to be.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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you will most likely have to move the spring perches and possibly the shock mounts. you will want to do the u-bolt flip if that has not been done. you have to go with a dana 60 in the front and that one will cost you some money. a dana 44 is the same thing as the 10 bolt you already have in the front. Yes to go with 37 inch tires you will need to upgrade or you will eventually break the axle shafts. For 37's a four inch lift is going to be needed and you will have to do some trimming of the fenders. Not sure what you have now. IF it is all stock then you may have 3:08 gears instead of 3:73.

First thing to confirm is that it is not a dually axle. If it came from an rv then it is most likely a dually and not single wheel. You will spend more money converting it than buying what you need. I would recomend finding a matched pair of axles with 4:56 gears for a 1009 with 37 inch tires.
If it is single wheel 14 bolt with good gears and it is the gears you want then it is a good price. No matter what 14 bolt you go with, none that I know of will bolt in without mods.
 

SandBar

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I have a rough country 4" lif and 1" zero rates on the way. I am considering a 1 inch body lift if needed. I am positive on the 3.73 gears, mine is a weird CUCV, it is ex navy and I ran the RPO codes from the glove compartment.

I thought I had read a 3/4 ton 14 bolt will plug right in (so to say)? Thank you
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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here is a good chart to help with identification http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml
I am not aware of any RV rear axles that were 3/4 ton or single rear wheel only 3/4 suburbans got single rear wheel 14 bolts to my knowledge.
IF it is going into a 1009 then you will have to move perches. if it were a 1008 or 1028 you would not. moving the perches is not hard to do.
This axle could be somewhat different if it were a custom rv but I have had and shopped many RV's and almost all are 1 ton dual wheel.
The Dual wheel rear axles are cheeper than single wheel so this may be why the price is good.
 

rickf

Well-known member
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A lot depends on what you plan to do with the truck also. If you are mainly street/ dirt road driving and not romping on it a 44 is fine. I have run a 44 with 44's for many years as have many of my customers. It is all in how you drive it. The one main issue is brakes. If you go with the 14 in the back and 44 in the front you will probably need a 1 ton master cylinder and an adjustable proportioning valve. Ford used eight lug wheels on a Dana 44 in their light duty 3/4 tons in the late 70's If you can find one or source the parts new you could use the Ford parts for the heavier front brakes. By the time you do all of that you will have spent the 1200.00 you would spend for a D60 front. The biggest problem with the CUCV rears is the gear ratio. You cannot go higher without replacing the carrier on the 60. More money.



Rick
 

SandBar

Full Time Patriot
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GA/FL
Ultimate plan is 35-37 tires used on and off road. Off road to mean out in the sand in central florida, not in 3 feet of mud. I want it quite capable off road but it will not be a heavy duty trail only setup. I just do not want to break something by putting on the lift and bigger tires and not giving the axles consideration.
 

rickf

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When you say quite capable off road but not a heavy duty four wheeler that is a direct contradiction of terms. I can tell you right now that if you are planning to go off road fairly often then you are going to be doing more than light duty wheeling, go with the 60. I have done a lot of heavy duty wheeling with a 44 but then again I owned a shop and I was into it just about every weekend replacing seals and bearings. All I had done to the 44 was a welded on axle truss and open gears. I would break an axle u-joint occasionally but that was really beating on it. There are better u-joints out now. Dana 60 fronts, especially Chevys, are much more available then they used to be.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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A 14 bolt from a 3/4 ton will bolt right in. The tubes are a bigger diameter so the ubolts are wider as are the spring plates on top of the springs. Perches and shock mounts are exactly where they need to be. I have one swinging from the back of the wrecker right now. It's next in line for disc brakes as it's going in my 5/8 ton Burb.
 
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