New CUCV - Bulb test and other issues?

[1987cucv]

Hi all, I just got a 1987 M1008 and I'm combing through it for issues. I originally cut my teeth working on OBS Chevy's, but squarebodies and diesels are new to me. I have all the TMs that I could find, but there's a few things I couldn't find answers for.

Here's the issues I've found so far:

Bulb Test
With the key on (but not running or cranking) my OBS Chevy will do a bulb tests on the cluster to show that the CEL and other idiot lights are functional. I've noticed here with my M1008 that the lights for CEL and Coolant Temp Warning do not come on. I've swapped the bulbs to confirm that the bulbs themselves are working.

So my question is... are those two lights supposed to come on when the key is turned?


Coolant Temp
I'm worried the thermostat isn't opening. DRMO drained all the fluids, and I topped it up. The upper radiator hose doesn't ever feel warm, and its squishy like its got air in it.
I used my laser temp sensor and tracked the thermostat housing temp while letting it idle in the driveway. Here is that data graphed:

http://imgur.com/L5BGoQq

I looked up the thermostat part number from the TM, and the AC Delco model is a 180 degree thermostat. Looking at the temp data, it looked like the thermostat started opening at around the 40 minute mark. I was a little hesitant to run longer than that and oveheat the engine, especially if the Coolant Warning Temp light isn't working (see bulb test above).

My question is, is that a normal warm up time and thermostat opening time? I'm trying to save myself from taking it out and boiling it in the stove.


Lifter Tick?
Again, DRMO had drained the fluids so I topped it up with oil and gave it a go. The paperwork in the cab says the fluids were drained six months ago, so maybe its been sitting just long enough for a lifter to get sticky?
On startup it seems to have some lifter tick. I don't have a stethoscope so I haven't been able to trace it to a cylinder. It does stop after the engine is warm, so maybe an exhaust leak?

Here's a clip, as always, the audio quality in recordings is never very good. It sounds like tapping two screwdriver shafts together, and I can hear it from about 40 feetaway.

http://imgur.com/sA9zwHn

My question here, is it actually lifter tick or is it something else? If lifter tick, are there any good oil additives that anyone has used to try and unstick it?


Thanks everyone! I'm looking forward to getting this on the road.

 

[Barrman]

No check engine light. Mentally figure you have no lights about the engine health. Pay attention to the ALT 1 and ALT 2 lights though. They are part of the charging system and need to be noticed.

The stock thermostat is a 195° part that starts to open at 192° and is fully open at 203°. Diesels take a very long time to warm up when just idling. I live with lows in the 70’s and highs near 100°. 20-30 minutes to get up to temperature seem normal to me. Driving will let it warm up in just a few minutes.

I think the engine is wanting to be loved and used. Drive it and monitor the tick. With the truck sitting for months oil might solve it.

 

[1987cucv]

Thanks Barrman, that's helpful. So the Coolant Temp Warning Light does not come on with the key on? Just want to confirm.

The TM says the engine operating temp is 180-260F, so is it safe to assume that the Coolant Temp Warning Light comes on around 260+?

I suppose I can idle it longer and see if the thermostat opens around that 195 mark.


I've only really been able to idle it. I'm waiting on a replacement rear driveshaft. Looks like the old one was forklift damaged and she vibrates pretty good at anything above 10mph.

 

[Barrman]

I just went and tried one of mine. Turning the key on had the following lights come on.

ALT 1
ALT 2
OIL
Low Coolant
Fasten Seat Belts
Glow Plug

The low coolant went out after 5 seconds of not starting while waiting for the glow plugs to finish.

The oil went out within a second or so of starting. As did the two charging lights.

The seat belt stays on until I put my seat belt on.

Next time instead of checking the bulbs. Do as the -20 instructs and verify the wiring for the oil and over heat lights are good by grounding the wires at the sensors.

I have been driving idiot light 6.2 vehicles for several decades. I honestly can’t think of ever seeing the overheat red light on. No matter the usage or conditions. The amber low coolant light is a common false positive light that is normally fixed by turning the wire at the sensor plug. Sometimes, it truly is a bad sensor in the radiator.

 

[1987cucv]

Thanks for doing that! That info is super helpful.

I suspected the coolant light should turn on with the key, but mine does not. One more thing for me to dig into before getting on the road.

I always like to check this kind of stuff when getting an older vehicle, because sometimes you find a minor problem but then trace the wiring and discover the mice have chewed through others in the harness, or that bubba had tried to do his own underglow kit and totally screwed it up.

 

[Barrman]

I drove mine this morning. I did notice the coolant red light came on only while the starter was engaged. I normally don’t watch the lights once the glow light goes out since there is no oil psi to watch. I go to the ALT lights on start up normally. But, I was thinking of this thread and caught it today.

 

[1987cucv]

Thanks Barrman,

After some work this weekend, this is what I've got:

http://imgur.com/8hZGbdT

Is that the same as what you were saying about yours? (no wait light in my video because it was from a warm start)


The coolant temp sensor on the front drivers side of the engine seems to have failed. It reads infinite ohms both completely cold and after driving. The coolant temp dash light does come on if I ground the wire though. Replacement sensor should be here in a few days.

 

[Barrman]

Yes, that is what I see.

Seems as if you have it figured out.