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New Dash Layout in the works……

INFChief

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I was planning on removing the air filter meter, combining the front and rear air pressure into a single gauge and adding boost/egt and a dual 12/24 voltmeter
I'm also dancing around the idea of some custom digital stuff using some round OLED panels. At some point I need to settle on a plan and map it all out.
The new air pressure gauge will read front & rear air pressures separately?
 

INFChief

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All,

Does anyone have any opinions on what other gauges they would add of any? I have 1-2 open depending on if I add a second fuel gauge. That is still a remaining question. I am contemplating a CTIS pressure gauge, EGT, transmission temp, indoor/outdoor temperature, charging amps…..

can someone comment on this?
Thanks!
Trans temp. If you have a Options Panel you could modify the face plate or make a face plate for the rest of your gauges. A crafty guy like you could build an enclosed Options Panel and add a tailored faceplate to suite your needs.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
The new air pressure gauge will read front & rear air pressures separately?
Well. I've been comparing two different setups.

Lots (most?) semi trucks use a mechanical gauge with dual needles. Like this:

1662814145115.png

This would get both front and rear brake pressure in one dash space, freeing up a hole for a dual boost/egt in a single hole.


But...

For custom air suspension setups, they make gauges with 4 or even 5 pressure inputs (for all 4 corners plus the tank pressure). This could give me more options for monitoring nto just the brake pressure, but tank, and maybe keeping an eye on the CTIS. All in that single panel space.

1662814355003.png 1662814365077.png
 

INFChief

Well-known member
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Location
New York
Well. I've been comparing two different setups.

Lots (most?) semi trucks use a mechanical gauge with dual needles. Like this:

View attachment 878827

This would get both front and rear brake pressure in one dash space, freeing up a hole for a dual boost/egt in a single hole.


But...

For custom air suspension setups, they make gauges with 4 or even 5 pressure inputs (for all 4 corners plus the tank pressure). This could give me more options for monitoring nto just the brake pressure, but tank, and maybe keeping an eye on the CTIS. All in that single panel space.

View attachment 878828 View attachment 878829
Slick stuff! If it has been developed for aftermarket applications, a digital/LED display that would provide all of your data in a single package would be best. And if it had “heads-up display” capability that would be NEAT-O!
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Slick stuff! If it has been developed for aftermarket applications, a digital/LED display that would provide all of your data in a single package would be best. And if it had “heads-up display” capability that would be NEAT-O!
Most stuff these days are looking to plug into an OBDII port to get the data. But they are a few made for racing applications that give you a digital display with old-school sensor inputs.

Dakota Digital makes a bunch, but there are other companies out there.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=69/mode=cat/cat69.htm
 

coachgeo

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Ya'll giving me ideas I can afford or have knowledge to do. But what the hell will throw the ideas out anyway cause maybe it will spark some ideas for others.

use the combination gauges enough places to re-arrange the whole gauges layout to where one could put camera monitor(s) in the dash.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Ya'll giving me ideas I can afford or have knowledge to do. But what the hell will throw the ideas out anyway cause maybe it will spark some ideas for others.

use the combination gauges enough places to re-arrange the whole gauges layout to where one could put camera monitor(s) in the dash.
yeah... so along those lines.


Being a computer guy all my life. I thought about moving stuff around and combining gauges as much as possible to get a computer display mounted in the dash. Throw a fanless PC or Mac mini somewhere and boom... mapping, night vision, vehicle telematics...Netflix....

There's also some interesting shaped plug and play monitors these days. Stuff that might fit in the same footprint as the A0 or A1 warning light panel hole.

I'll throw some links below from my "research" folder.

https://www.gothamsound.com/library/mod-mac-mini-dc-power

https://wisecoco.en.alibaba.com/pro...?spm=a2700.shop_plser.41413.12.378b4986M83Zq0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ21RNW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4P7QHY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095R6SXX1/
 

ramdough

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Location
Austin, Texas
I need to trim the gray lip on the right side about 1/8” to clear my new switches.

EA849532-76EC-42BC-BAD3-3BDCC1B28AFA.jpeg

also, anyone know what this stud is for?

below is where the potentiometer is mounted.
B1F3558B-7703-4CFA-9EBB-BB2CDDD1766F.jpeg
 

TomTime

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MD.

ramdough

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Austin, Texas
Got my fording switch wired into my AC harness.

I won’t get all of my switches wired for a while, but I wanted to paint my new dash while everything was apart, so I inserted the switches where they go. Next task is to get the truck mobile again.

curious thing I found. P912 and J913 were unplugged and taped off. Is that normal? Why would they be loose like that in a dash?

View attachment 877929
Found the matching pair on my winch/accessory harness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RRaulston

Well-known member
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Location
Sahuarita, Arizona
I ditched the filter-minder gauge for primary fuel pressure. I dropped out the round voltmeter for a dual led display unit that fits in a switch hole, and used the round opening to add engine oil temp.

Over on the left I put in a dual needle air gauge and standalone low air switches to replace the gauge sensors. Moved the fuel gauge up to the middle and put in a trans oil temp gauge on the bottom next to the trans control…
If I put in another fuel tank, I think I would just put in a gauge tank select sw or tie it into the tank select valve control if used.

The 3lever light sw has a 2position dimmer in it. I used mine for a bit but now have a different sw so need a new standalone dimmer as I prefer a dark pilothouse:).

Here is my A0 dash makeover walk-thru vid
I really like your light switch mod. My lever mechanical OEM switch is ridiculously confusing. I'm assuming you ran pins from the harness to the switch and grouped a bunch of them together for park/brake lights and headlights?
 

Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
I really like your light switch mod. My lever mechanical OEM switch is ridiculously confusing. I'm assuming you ran pins from the harness to the switch and grouped a bunch of them together for park/brake lights and headlights?
Yeah, he did a sweet dash layout. You'll note that he did retain the OEM switch, though.

Originally I did consider deleting the OEM switch and adding a standard automotive headlight pull switch just for the basics. A few people have done it on these trucks (and in a couple cases only because they hated the lever swatch).

I have the newer version and I'd love to retask it (it's a lot of switch for the space). I'll have my park lights come on with the ignition switch (if I had a dollar for every time I drove some place with no brake lights or turn signals, LOL). The same retask could be done for the lever switch (example: instead of BO drive have it turn on headlights and fog light, instead of BO markers have headlights and light bars).

If I move parking lights to the ignition (there's a post detailing this mod somewhere), delete the BO stuff (retask the wiring runs to new lights), and retain: Off/ Head Lights/ Pnl Dim/Pnl Bright...then I gain four new functions out of the switch. So I'd add something like: Headlights and Fog Lights, Headlights and Lightbar 01, Headlights, Lightbar 01 and Lightbar 02, and an Interior light switch. I'm pretty sure with the right connections and some relays it could work.

Of course I don't know for a fact I can actually all do this, but it's a nice thought.

LOL
 

Ronmar

Well-known member
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Location
Port angeles wa
Well the brake lights you can simply hardwire. They dont actually get powered till you step on the pedal. They are always hot on most vehicles.

the ignition switch actually switches a ground path to energize the ignition relays. You will have to pickoff the park/TS power from the output of the 12v ignition relay. If this is an A0 you will have to add a 12v ignition relay:)
 

ramdough

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So, I rebuilt and repurposed the winch/accessory harness.

see post here:


After install, there was room, but barely to get everything connected.
A584F2BB-8D7D-46E0-9433-A8F6FC15F1DA.jpeg

Hopefully when I fire this thing up, I will be officially done with this part of the project.
 
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