• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New glow plugs

MAGNUM

New member
76
0
0
Location
Fulton, Mo.
I wanted to say thanks for all the great info and post on here. My 1009 was getting so it would'nt start unless it was plugged in if it got to be 40 degrees or less, a real pain. After researching all the info here I realized that all the cyling I was hearing before starting was really suppose to happen after the engine was running, or not at all. I guess my controller card was trying to save whatever glow plugs were left. I've had my unit for several years, picked it up in N. C.
I never changed the GP's. The only one I had a problem with was the left front. It had swollen slightly. With a little patients it came out. Anyhow I left it outside, on purpose, last night. This morning the air temp is 7. The wind chill is -4.
It almost started with the first try. I cycled the key once more and it fired right up! :-D Does anyone know how often the GP's should be changed?
 

Hasdrubal

New member
690
4
0
Location
Vancouver BC
Change them as often as you change all the light bulbs in your house. Ha.... First you didn't state what Glow plugs you are running. You should be able to tell when a glow plug has gone bad. When the engine is cold and you fire up, idle will sound rough and you will notice white smoke out the exhaust side that the bad Gp is on. Test that bank, change it out, thats it. Dont listen to the parts guys who tell you to replace all as a set. I run AC-60's, have had them last as little as 3 years to 6 years.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
Easy to test with a test light just to see if they are electrically open or not. I skipped the ohmeter tests. The main failure is when they become open, or lose continuity. Clamp your light onto the front battery positive terminal, unplug the glow plug and touch the tab with the probe. If the glow plug is working the test light glows. If it is not working the light will not glow as there is no path to the grounded block.
 
Last edited:

camogriz

Member
142
0
16
Location
Carmel, NY
I agree. It's not necessary to change all the glowplugs unless they are really old. I check them all at least three times a year and change any that have stopped working. There is usually at least one. I usually check right after I notice a difference in the starting effort necessary to start the truck, or right after it starts to get very cold.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
That's my feeling as well. I have a question if you don't mind. My truck has the original style glow plugs and wire connector plugs. (32000 miles) many posts on this site recommend switching to the AC plugs and a wider connector to fit. I have one bad glow plug. Should I just replace the one bad one with an AC and do this as they fail or would it be better to change them all over at once?
 

1StumpJumper

Member
173
1
16
Location
NW Washington
When I upgraded my glow plugs to AC60s, I went through and swapped to the wide terminals first. The wide ones still work on the narrower blades of the Wellmans. Swap all the terminals at the same, time then upgrade/swap glow plugs one at a time as needed without having to worry about the terminals each time.
 

1StumpJumper

Member
173
1
16
Location
NW Washington
I swapped them all out at the same time, so unfortunately I do not know about glow plug compatability. I only did the terminals due to time, then swapped glow plugs a week later.
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
That's what I was wondering. If ACs are slower, why does everyone switch over? (and I did not try a search this time since this thread was already headed in this direction)
 
Top