New Guy From Eastern North Carolina

[Chief 15]

Hello all. Glenn from the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Our fire department picked up a 1997 S&S M1078. It is in very good shape. Our department doesn't have any members that served in the modern military, so we're at a disadvantage on the ins and outs of the M1078. I'll probably have a lot of questions. I appreciate your patience in advance.

 

[Mullaney]

Hello all. Glenn from the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Our fire department picked up a 1997 S&S M1078. It is in very good shape. Our department doesn't have any members that served in the modern military, so we're at a disadvantage on the ins and outs of the M1078. I'll probably have a lot of questions. I appreciate your patience in advance.

.
Welcome to the Outfit Glenn!

Don't hesitate to ask questions. Lots of the guys have S&S trucks and are willing to share information. Might be a good idea for you to have the books. Downloads are free in the Technical Manuals (TM's) section.

M1078 TM's

Listed below are a number of the TM's for the M1078 trucks. To save them to your computer, right click, select "save as" m1078_TM 9-2320-365-10.pdf TM 9-2320-365-10 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM 9-2320-365-20-1.pdf TM 9-2320-365-20-1 for the M1078 series trucks. m1078_TM...

www.steelsoldiers.com

The numbering system makes it fairly easy to find what you need to know.

-10 Operators Guide
-20 Maintenance Instructions (Electrical Drawings in the Back) 4 Parts
-24 Parts
-34 Maintenance Direct Support (Level 2) 2 Parts

We gotta have pictures. There are a bunch of Picture Hounds - and I'm definitely one as well. Before you start spending money, start with batteries. The alternator on these trucks really will be much happier with two batteries. Output is just good enough rather than outstanding...

Not sure what kind of condition the truck is in, but a tube of Anti-Oxidation paste and a toothbrush will make life better. There is a big board behind the plate on the dash in front of the passenger seat. Circuit Breakers live there. Some are 3 prong, some are 4. Need to be sure that the correct breaker is in the correct slot on the board. Often times auction trucks get the wrong part plugged in and things don't work right. Cleaning the board connections and breaker pins will be a good thing.

Behind the cab is a box under the spare tire that is basically a reverse polarity box. Dependable cranking is important to all of us - but more so for an emergency vehicle. Disconnect the batteries in the battery box (Take a Picture first!) and then clean and use anti-ox paste on the polarity box. It is out in the weather and clean is important.

Other than that - just ask away and the guys will jump in and help for sure!

AND, Welcome to the group - from North Carolina!

Tim

 

[SCM35A2]

Welcome to the site!

 

[M35fan]

Welcome to Steel Soldiers, from Alabama! I don't know much about the 1078 myself, but you definitely came to the right place. Like @Mullaney said, the TMs will tell you everything you need to know. And if you get stuck, folks here are happy to help. Good luck!

 

[emcoord]

Hey Glenn. We just purchased a 1078 yesterday. On here for the same reasons. We're your neighboring county to the west of Tyrell.

 

[Guyfang]

Two heads are better then one.

 

[swiss]

The basics that need to be completed: This are short descriptions and require some searching but it will get you started

1.) Oil line of death, replace ASAP
2.) Check All Fluid levels and if in doubt change it
3.) Check front hub fluid levels
4.) Grease, Grease and Grease
5.) Do not work on anything electrical such as alternators, starters etc or weld without disconnecting batteries 24 volts makes a bad welding machine
6.) Open engine compartment and listen and check for things falling off, loose etc
7.) Get underneath and check for things falling off, loose etc

Start googling topics copy the below into a browser

oil line of death site:steelsoldiers.com

 

[emcoord]

The basics that need to be completed: This are short descriptions and require some searching but it will get you started

1.) Oil line of death, replace ASAP
2.) Check All Fluid levels and if in doubt change it
3.) Check front hub fluid levels
4.) Grease, Grease and Grease
5.) Do not work on anything electrical such as alternators, starters etc or weld without disconnecting batteries 24 volts makes a bad welding machine
6.) Open engine compartment and listen and check for things falling off, loose etc
7.) Get underneath and check for things falling off, loose etc

Start googling topics copy the below into a browser

oil line of death site:steelsoldiers.com

I’ll look at the “oil line of death “ asap. My big questions are the fluid specs for the transmission and hydraulic system. Seems like most threads or links say 32w for the hydraulic system. The transmission varies. Some say synthetic 15w40 engine oil and some have changed it to a version of ATF. I’m not super familiar with Allision transmissions.

 

[swiss]

Pull the transmission dip stick!

red is atf
Black is engine oil

first figure out what you have then I would stay with the same,
Rotella 5-40 is a good basic engine oil. Or get fancy with the Rotella synthetic.

 

[wheelspinner]

The basics that need to be completed: This are short descriptions and require some searching but it will get you started

1.) Oil line of death, replace ASAP
2.) Check All Fluid levels and if in doubt change it
3.) Check front hub fluid levels
4.) Grease, Grease and Grease
5.) Do not work on anything electrical such as alternators, starters etc or weld without disconnecting batteries 24 volts makes a bad welding machine
6.) Open engine compartment and listen and check for things falling off, loose etc
7.) Get underneath and check for things falling off, loose etc

Start googling topics copy the below into a browser

oil line of death site:steelsoldiers.com

Swiss excellent list-but need to add the air compressor mounting bracket. Loose bolts = huge repair issues.