Thanks everyone!!! No, I didn't get the one from Craigslist. I got mine from Wright-Patterson AFB. She's rough but I don't mind.
I managed to make a harness and tap into the GP Controller (at the light blue wire-thanks for the advice, I also checked the wire diagrams in the PDFs). I used a heavy-duty starter push-button and put in a 30A fusible link. I hold it in for 7 seconds of so, she fires right up. Love it.
My only concern now is, should I even worry about cycling the GPs after start-up? I read some information that the GP Controller originally takes a reading from the temp sensor and voltage bus and determines whether to cycle upon start-up. It started fine with just a short warm-up cycle on the button, and turn of the key.
I know that the GP Controller allows for variances in cycling based on whether or not the voltage is higher due to a failed GP, temperature, low battery voltage, etc...but do you all think that I need to worry about it? I would like to find the schematic of the ACTUAL controller and print one myself and solder it together. This would alleviate my concerns.
I am a computer and electronics technician by trade. This would be rather easy, once I found a darn schematic. I don't have the original unit to reverse engineer. Do you all happen to know where I could find the schematic? I see people selling the units for 70-200 bucks... that makes me cringe. I see the components on the card and feel like I could print my own at the cost of only parts. I see a member here made a great reproduction, and would probably be a great deal-sparing me the hassle of doing anything myself... and I may just pick it up. However, if I could see a schematic, I will make that decision.
Thanks for the warm welcome folks! As I said initially, I certainly hope to sponge up a ton of knowledge and be a contributing member here. It seems like a great community so far. The information here is absolutely invaluable. It would be great to get Pig Iron on the road in a reliable and worry-free fashion and take her out to meet up with you all.
Apart from getting her running (mission accomplished thanks to your help), I'm working on figuring out why in the **** 4WD won't engage. I set the hubs, move the selector to 4L (which doesn't completely line up with the indicator on the lever), 4WD lights up on the dash, I get excited, pull into my side-yard and freaking get stuck. Here comes the neighbors Grand Cherokee to the rescue. Grrrrrr.
A symptom that I did notice is, when I went to pull through the mud, she stalled out easier when in 4WD. My father said the wheels weren't spinning up front. I am concerned to say the least. It is currently too wet to crawl underneath and check if the shaft spins and whether or not it is engaging well. Do these CUCVs have something simple I'm overlooking that could be the culprit? Darn.
