New M1009 owner in Alaska...

[redline300]

I am female and am just learning how to work on trucks. I bought a 1985 M1009 1 year ago....so bare with me....I truly am a fast learner.....

1st problem: Wouldn't start unless sprayed with ether. (horrible I know)
----the fix: new glow plugs, new gp relay, push button installed to activate the gp relay and warm glow plugs. Also cut a hole in the dash and doors and put a sound system in.

Everthing started fine and I thought that was it....until 2 weeks later it wouldn't start again. I had to jump it so I could drive it home.

2nd problem: the sound system wasn't hooked up right and had drained the batteries.
----the fix: replaced the batteries and had the sound system rewired from scratch and installed the right way.

Again, everything was great and I drove the green monster for close to 2 weeks when it died again. Had to jump it and drive it home.

It was suggested that the alternator was bad. I took the alt out(100..only 1 alt because before I bought it the 24v system was turned into 12v) and had it tested at Napa....5/5 it was fine. So I put it back in. After checking the amps and voltage it was discovered that it only put out 12.21v or so. A few days later the volts were checked on the batteries and they had dropped to 11.97. When I bypassed the truck's system with a wire on the battery leading straight to the alt the volts jumped to 14.45 and stayed around there. Whether the truck is running or not it seems to be constantly draining 5 amps. So I unplugged the alt and the batteries have kept their charge. After plugging the alt back in I was able to fire it right up with no issues. So why is it that I have it die on me but other times of not driving it around for days it starts working again?!!

I read on the forums that wiring can be a big problem and that I should replace certain things. In order to reach the wiring I ended up removing one of the batteries and the holder for it. I took the black casing off the wires going from the alt, batteries, and firewall so I could trace them. I noticed some wires that had been cut clean as well as a connections at the back of the engine with nothing to plug into it. I have included pictures of what I did tonight.

Hopefully someone can give me some insight. I would like to remove wiring that is no longer needed(EX: one of the wires for the 2nd alt had been cut on both ends but was still taped in with everything else). The white plug I am holing is the one that seems to not have an opposite end.

 

[panzerwillie]

Being a 12 volt system should not be to dificult , all the alternator needs is a trigger to start charging onces the engine is running, once again depending on style, you need a TM manual which explains a lot for troubleshooting, there are being to write ups in this website for converting to 12 volt do a search see if it comes up , also going to attach wire scamatic see if it helps, also with a test ligth between the positive of the battery and the power cable you can start pulling 1 fuese at a time and disconet ascessorys untill you find the draw gut luck

 

[caladin]

Welcome to the forum

 

[natemccabe]

wecome to the club! Hopefully the cost of diesil drops below $4 this summer

 

[DokWatson]

wecome to the club! Hopefully the cost of diesil drops below $4 this summer

I can only hope...going on a 300+ mile offroad trip into Eureka in July.

Welcome Alaskan... I drive a CUCV, it just doesn't look like one anymore

 

[DokWatson]

That connector looks suspiciously like the wiring harness for dual tanks.

 

[redline300]

I put a new gen relay in and put the wiring back together. The monster started up but is still draining 5 amps continuously. I had the alt checked at O'reilly's and they said it was fine...but a friend of mine is convinced that it is still the alt. The only problem is that I can't seem to find a new alt that will fit the brackets or a new alt with new brackets! Now what?

 

[DokWatson]

Pull fuses one by one until the draw goes away. Will be time consuming, but it should tell you what the problem is.

 

[linx310]

Could it be the black out lights?

I have read several threads on here about people forgetting to turn them off or the switch has fused and they draw a current whether they are on or off. Since they are not very bright when old most people don't even realize they are on.

The fuze box idea would be the best way to tell whats going on.

 

[idM1028]

Welcome to the site. You seem to be learning fast. Try Rare Electrical for an alternator. They sell the "special" isolated ground alternators for the CUCV's. Dropped a pair in a couple of months ago and have had no problems. I'm pretty sure it was a bad diode in on of the alternators, but when my old ones were tested, supposedly they were fine. Only problem I had with the new alts was the drivers side alt needed the head of adjustment bolt towards the firewall. Autozone part # DL7157 is not an isolated ground alt but should fit the brackets (If you did the Roscoe 12V conversion, supposedly the isolated ground shouldn't matter)

 

[jmassenga]

1. Does the gen 1 light on the dash come on when you turn the key on (engine not running)? If no, replace the bulb.

1. Take your alternator to Alaska Auto Electric at 6325 Petersburg St. They're familiar with 24v and CUCV alternators and can rebuild yours if it needs it.

3. As suggested, pull fuses to see if you can isolate your battery draw. Another possible draw is the service light switch operates a relay and will kill your battery if left on for long periods.

4. Check the wiring of the 12v conversion. State Forestry (yours looks like it is in their paint scheme) seems to have converted most of the CUCVs they got to 12v so one would think they knew what they were doing, but...

Good luck with it. There's several CUCVs running around Anchorage; be nice to see another.