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New M1009, stuck starter, replaced with DH relay, won't start

Matt5

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You looking at a voltage at the relay... not sure why you think that is battery voltage... I mean, could very very well have voltage drop... could be part of the problem a poor connection, batteries could very well be at 25+ volts...
 

MarcusOReallyus

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There's no voltage drop unless there is current flowing. If he took that measurement while the starter circuit was NOT engaged, it's battery voltage. (But if you're testing batteries, why not just test the batteries?)

That's why a test light should be used as well as a meter. The meter won't load the circuit, so you don't see a voltage drop due to a bad connection, corroded wires, etc. A test light usually provides enough load to show the drop. I doubt it would on a starter circuit, though.
 

ofmyownaccord

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Got the batteries load tested today and they're still good. Double checked the new relay and everything is working and getting/transferring power like its supposed to. Since the batteries are still strong, that means the alternators must be in decent shape so I'm happy about that.

Looks like I'm pulling the starter tomorrow. Would've done it today but it was over 100 degrees here in LA. I've already sourced a pretty reputable alt/starter shop in town. It's just the two bolts and the bracket right? I was able to determine that I have the gear reduction starter.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Have you measured voltage at the starter when the starter is engaged? It's possible you have a bad cable. You won't see that with a meter unless you load the circuit by engaging the starter motor.
 

ofmyownaccord

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Starter was getting full power. So I pulled it and dropped it off at the shop.....and I'm pretty sure it's fried because it smelled awful. haha

I also noticed that my truck didn't have the support bracket so I ordered new starter bolts and a new bracket.
 

Tinstar

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Good catch
Missing front brackets can/do cause nasty problems.

Sounds like your starter needed rebuilt anyway.
 

cucvmule

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At least you have the gear reduction starter. Nice upgrade at the least, and saves some weight up front. Also new hardware, you can not go wrong. Be kind to your new, rebuilt starter and it will be good to you.
 

Tinstar

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ACDelco still makes the correct starter bolts.
The are one time use and not expensive.

2DBDC4A2-E355-4119-A375-101246DB7344.jpg

Price is for a box of 5 or 6 bolts
 

ofmyownaccord

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Thanks for the heads up. Already bought the bolts from summit racing and they explicitly state during ordering that you have to buy each bolt individually. They were like $2 each. Amazon was just too vague in the product description for my liking.

Ending up having to buy a brand new starter. My electric guy said the old starter was beyond repair and he's not the type to scam people. So I bought the one he had on the shelf. Plus I have the piece of mind knowing that the starter in my hands the correct starter [28mt 24v] If I ordered it from somewhere else, I'd have to wait a week and then pray that the part that shows up on my doorstep isn't a 12v unit.

Just waiting on the bracket, which I did order on amazon, to arrive today. Now I have to source that M8x1.25x20 bracket bolt after work. So hopefully either tonight or tomorrow morning, this old green war turtle will be running again.
 

cucvrus

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Starter bolts are starter bolts. Back in the day they had flange headed starter bolts. Honestly I don't change the starter bolts every time. They are not torque to yield bolts. But I have changed them when I have them new and available. Unless you doubt the bolts were ever changed you don't need to change them. I seldom have the starter off on most trucks. I just rebuild the starters for preventive maintenance. I suspect starter or batterie issues they get changed. If not that is when all the other issues come about. Guess that is why I have all mine stock wiring, relays and resistors. Even 13G glow plugs. Why NOT? they worked this long that way. I have work to do but I am glad you resolved the no start issue.
 
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