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New M101a2 dump trailer

boundstaffpress

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La Junta, CO
I brought home an M101 trailer. I was looking for a way to haul and dump around 100 yards of dirt. I have read that the trailer was designed to break down for easier hauling. I even downloaded the TM and have been working my way through it as I modify the trailer for dumping.
So far, this is what I have accomplished. I installed a brake hose by the pivot point. I used CarQuest part SP4497. It worked perfectly. I also bled the brakes. I moved the electrical wiring to the tongue instead of the box so that they will flex at the pivot point. I moved the lights up and back to avoid crushing them. I replaced the bolts that held the front of the box with pins, and replaced the tailgate hinge pins with remove able pins so that the tailgate can be removed for dumping. I also wired the trailer for 7pin RV plug to match my truck. I ran my wires down some soaker hose to protect them.
On the truck side I welded up a mounting plate for a pintle. I'll post pics in a bit.
 

John Galt

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Yup, be careful. My BIL ruined a trailer doing exactly what you are planning to do. Are you lights working after you relocated them? It looks like you painted the bracket and did not grind off the paint on the frame.
 

boundstaffpress

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La Junta, CO
I intend to be gentle in tipping the trailer. I know that the different angles with the tongue and spring hangers cause significant tension. If or when they break, I will make a more substantial pivot point.

The lights are working. I ground away the chipping paint and painted the light hangers black. When I re-drilled the holes I ground away a diagonal line between the holes on both the frame and the hanger with a Dremel. Then I coated the gap with dielectric grease before re-assembly.
 

MWMULES

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Added "dump trailer" to your title and if you look below you will see other threads on the subject. Hopefully you will not get in a bind and snap the "pivot point" casting on the frame, like this one #16
 

boundstaffpress

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La Junta, CO
I've been reading threads on here for a while. Ive seen the pictures in the thread you mentioned. I don't plan to tip the bed vertical. I really just want it to be easier to unload the dirt than it is out of the back of my pickup.

This forum really has been amazing. I think I've read just about every m101 trailer build or dump thread.
 

KsM715

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St George Ks
I converted a M105 trailer to dump like this. ( wish I hadn't sold it). It's really not that hard for someone with some fab skills. Just need to change the pivot points from angled to the frame to parallel to the frame.
 

gimpyrobb

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I've been reading threads on here for a while. Ive seen the pictures in the thread you mentioned. I don't plan to tip the bed vertical. I really just want it to be easier to unload the dirt than it is out of the back of my pickup.

This forum really has been amazing. I think I've read just about every m101 trailer build or dump thread.
Your load will eventually fall out all at once and snap that casting. You should rig up a limiting strap from the bed to your A-arm to avoid snapping that casting.
 

quickfarms

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417238416.963738.jpg

They dump just fine. I have been using mine for almost 2 decades.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417238490.364108.jpg

This is a typical load of brush.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417238610.458102.jpg

The pivot points were changed to heim joints a few years a go and these are the frame plates.
 

boundstaffpress

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La Junta, CO
With a little research I found this graphic on the forum. If I were to include a limiting strap, I would be aiming at 50 degrees for my bed angle.
I have read countless times that the original intent was not to dump with this trailer. But, it will do it. I am an able enough fabricator that I don't mind making the necessary improvements if the original castings fail. I like Quickfarm's plan, but may improve on it.
dumping_angles__383.jpg
 

quickfarms

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My castings did fail after about 15 years of very hard use dumping several loads of brush a week.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417328402.773298.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1417328471.950640.jpg

The dump angles listed in the chart are not, in my experience, real world. They are also not applicable to this application because the wheel wells impede dumping.
 

wvu dodge

Member
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Location
Fairmont, WV
The dump angles listed in the chart are not, in my experience, real world. They are also not applicable to this application because the wheel wells impede dumping.
I'd agree with this, and its complicated by the fact that its being laid on the tailgate, which gives the material no where to go, even if you take the gate off. I'm not criticizing, I'd like to see what you come up with. But even if you are dumping brush, if you lay it on the tailgate, it still won't be roll out on its own, you'll be raking it out by hand. I converted mine to dump hydraulically with a 50deg dump angle. Worked good with dirt and fire wood, haven't tried gravel, but should work good for that. I've hauled several loads of brush and had to rake(flop) it out when dumped because it gets stuck on the ground, and because of the wheel wells being inside the bed, even pulling forward won't clear it.
 

quickfarms

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You do need to remove the tailgate. I changed my lower pins to hitch pins.

I you look at the picture of my trailer you will notice I dump at about an 80 degree angle and still have issues with the brush getting stuck on the wheel wells.

Even on the dump trucks we used to dump at a greater angle than is listed in that chart. Is that chart based on a poly lined bed?
 

boundstaffpress

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La Junta, CO
The chart is just something I found on SS that looked useful.

Like Quickfarms, I replaced the lower tailgate pins with hitch pins so that I can remove the tailgate. If the load doesn't completely dump, I'm prepared to do a little raking or shoveling. This will be a vast improvement over shoveling the entire load out of the back of my pickup like I've been doing.

Quickfarms - What thickness of plate did you use for your frame brackets? I am wanting to make something similar, but I would like to put some support between the ball joint and the axle so that when I back up the force isn't directed in a radial motion on a single bolt. I would like it to look something like this, but with some more steel above the ball end. My current plan is to grind a space and weld the ball end into the bottom of some 3 inch angle. What do you think?
 
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