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New M1031 owner with a NP205 Transfer Case Rebuilt question

quiksilver1j

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Port St. Lucie, FL
I just bought a 1986 m1031 truck last week end from a Steel Soldier Member (Great Experience!) I had been ghosting on the forum for a few months researching and waiting for a good truck that was some what local.

Long story short I'm in the process of changing all of engine/gear oil in this order (engine, front diff, rear diff, and transfer case). Since I want to remove the PTO shaft/gearing ? Not going to use it / what could i use it for? I also see some light dirt dusting on the transfer case housing indicating a weep leak so I decided rebuilding makes sense. I've ordered the NP205 rebuild video as well as the service manuals.

My question to the forum is What is your favorite rebuild kit for this transfer case? I seen the ones at 4x4 and drivetrain.com and Northwest fab? Prices seem to range from $200 - $450 depending on how tough they claim it is. Are the more expensive kits worth the money?

What size 8 point impact socket will remove the 5/8" 4 point axel oil plug? Mine is stuck, so Im going to use my 1500 ft/lb impact wrench.
 

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ODdave

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Id be interested in buying the pto if you wanna sell.

To be totaly honest, unless it is actualy dripping, I wouldnt mess with it.
 
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quiksilver1j

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What can you do with this pto drive? I may sell if I can find out what people use this for? Also why do you say not to touch it ... The transfer case is hard to shift and grinds quite often... I am sure a rebuild will help as long as the bearing bores are true
 

ODdave

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I would use the pto with my 1031 box......

As to rebuilding, You didnt say anything about hard to shift and grinding in your first post.....
Chances are new bearings and seals are not going to fix that problem. If you where to remove the tie bar from the shift rails and clean them with emery cloth and luricate them well you would probably see a good improvement.
 

quiksilver1j

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Port St. Lucie, FL
Your right I did neglect to say the case was shifting hard and grinding. Once I receive the pto cover plate and gasket in the mail (I'll remove it and then we can work out a deal) Ill send you a PM. Would you want the governor box as well?

What is your opinion about the double throw modification? Worth it while I'm down there cleaning?
 

quiksilver1j

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Port St. Lucie, FL
Nevermind about the twin shifter mod I did more reading and it says its possible to cause damage if shifted in to the wrong configuration (ie 4L front 4H rear). I'm def. not touching that one.
 

ODdave

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The twin stick mod requires you to remove the shift rails (you have to grind them so the inter-lock pins will allow movement) Before you spend any $ clean those rails up and see if its any better. If it isnt then you may have to pull the case apart, there is some light grinding that can be done to the gears to make them shift easier but with any luck you wont need to mess with it.

Keep in mind if you do the twin stick anybody that drives it may not know how to use it.
 

wayne pick

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Valley Cottage NY
One thing you can do with that PTO is put a hydraulic pump on it and run any stationary hyd tool, like a monster log spliter. Run hoses out back with quick couplers.
 

BIG_RED

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Winnipeg, Manitoba
PTO would be great for generator/welder, air compressor, hydraulic pump (as stated above), giant emergency water pump.. What can't you do with a PTO? If my '09 had a 205 and PTO I'm sure I'd find a use for it. I wouldn't twin stick either. I can only see the benefit for a very serious off road rig.
 

quiksilver1j

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Port St. Lucie, FL
Thanks for all of the great suggestions as for the transfer case I will follow your advice to clean up the shift rails with an Emory cloth and then lube them up with some 80/90 gear oil. I assume I should shift into the gear set that extends the shift rails out of the transfer case as far as possible. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I will check the gear oil at the same time as I have read low oil levels can cause the grinding and sticking as well. If that doesn't work the I'll have to split the case and figure out where to go from there.

As for the pto... It would be great if I could run a wood shredder but how much work is it to re-route the pto shaft (currently the pto terminates at what a assume is a big belt pulley under the bed. I probably would want the shaft to come out near the front of the truck right? Any on have any pictures of what this would look like?

Another concern of mine is that I read in the TM that you should not allow the engine to idle for a lint time to prevent damage! So how practical is it to run a generator or water pump for "short" durations.. I guess it depends on the application, what is everyones opinion of engine idle times for the 6.2?
 

allenhillview

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Jonesborough, TN.
Sure would like to know answer to the part on the extended idle time (why not and what happens to engine), I check cattle in snow, rain,cold..I need heat when I return sometimes 1/2 hour, some less, some more, any reply would be great? Nice truck by the way.
 

bshupe

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Mount Vernon, WA
Unless Im mistaken the engine would not be at idle while using the PTO so its a non-issue where that is concerned.

I would also be interested to know if there are problems with long term idling. If its in the manual it could be that they just dont want them to do it and not so much that damage will result.2cents
 

Firejareen

Member
87
1
8
Location
Rural Retreat VA
It may be different for our CUCV's, but most diesel motors have no issue with idling for long periods. I drive a fire engine and when we go on a call it is usually outside running the entire time. There have been times when I haven't shut it off for hours. I don't run my M1028 like that but it is still a diesel.
 

Matt1031

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Atl, GA
*Some* diesels you should avoid running at idle for extended periods because it's bad for the turbo. Cummins recommends no more than 10 minutes at idle for most truck engines in their operator manuals. If the engine is operating at off-idle rpm, turbo cooling/oiling is less of an issue since oil pressure is up, more oil flow being circulated, and the turbo is operating at normal speeds instead of just barely spinning. Turbos are not designed to operate efficiently at idle, they are designed to work best at normal operational rpm's. Also worth noting is that most mfg's also recommend a minimum time letting turbo equipped engines idle (cool) before shutdown after running a heavy load, so the EGT's/turbo temps can drop before oil flow is completely stopped (Oil in the turbo bearings can "cook" if you shut the engine down hot - excess carbon in turbo bearings can lead to premature failure)

Since 6.2 is a NA diesel, the above guidelines regarding when to idle and when not to idle don't apply. Turbo oiling/cooling isn't a concern when you don't have a turbo :p. It's definitely a waste of fuel, but I wouldn't worry about any mechanical issues from letting a 6.2 idle for hours at a time.
 

jets1959

Member
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Location
Lakewood, WA
If I remember correctly from ad photos, you have the governor assy under the hood as well. I already have a spare, but I bet you could sell it to another 1031 owner.
If you don't want the governor I will be glad to take it off your hands to use as a spare for my M1031 contact maintenance truck, along with any of the other parts on there you don't want.:idea:
 
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