New M1078A1R

[GCecchetto]

Hello All;

First let me apologize for being yet another newbie asking a crap load of questions. I do, however, promise you I have the capacity to maintain and build the truck into the expedition vehicle I have planned and while it will take a while, I will be able to give back to the forum.

I won't be able to pick the truck until the end of the month and will be driving it home from Maryland to the west coast. I'm in the process of collecting the tools and spares that one should have on hand for a trip like this. I have a few things on my radar that I would like to have for the trip, and done to the truck before heading west.

Can someone point me to a resource for buying the CAT ET software? I'll also need the tool to connect to the truck should I need to use the software to troubleshoot something. From what I've read, the mil issue MSD Test Set is the bee's knees, but there is currently only one on ebay and the seller is asking $685 for it, which is much more than some of you have told me you paid for them. It's also quite a large and heavy kit, and while I will get one to have in the shop, it's not what I want to fly to Maryland with. I've been given some links to adaptors available through Alibaba, but I would rather pay a little more and deal with a US seller so there is some support after the purchase. So, if someone has had good luck with one that is being sold through a US retailer can you please let me know.

I would also like to have some level of security when parking the truck over night at hotels on the way home. I have the key code from the lock cylinders in the doors. Same code they all are, but having keys to lock the cab will at least detour the folks that don't have a key, so I'll be visiting a local locksmith to make me a couple of keys and will re-key the doors when I get home. Beyond that, I'm curious if anyone offers a kit with a keyed switch with the mil spec connectors to replace the master electrical cutoff switch in the kick panel by the steering column? I may ultimately also add a keyed switch in the dash in place of the starter button, but not sure I want my keys scratching up the dash since the cab will be getting a complete interior build out. Regardless, having the master cut off switch keyed for the trip will be a huge improvement over the current setup. I didn't look to see if the truck also has the battery disconnect on the side of the battery box, but guessing it probably does.

I know there are no TM's for the A1R trucks, so I'll have the A1 TM's on my ipad. That said, if anyone knows of a source for A1R TM's, please let me know. Happy to pay for them.

Lastly, I didn't think to look to see if there was any sort of 12/24 volt outlet in the cab for powering/charging electronics while on the road, so any info there would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Third From Texas]

Lastly, I didn't think to look to see if there was any sort of 12/24 volt outlet in the cab for powering/charging electronics while on the road, so any info there would be appreciated.

There is a 12v cig lighter outlet on the passenger kick panel

 

[Third From Texas]

I would also like to have some level of security when parking the truck over night at hotels on the way home.

The external manual "battery disconnect" switch (aft of the battery box) has a place for a small lock.
*it can be defeated with a hammer, of course (but anyone determined to enter or start the truck will do so...keys on not)
*pulling a few of the key circuit breakers is the safest way to disarm the vic

 

[GCecchetto]

Thanks

 

[Third From Texas]

And I HIGHLY recommend that you do in fact trip the battery disconnect at night (every night) as long as you own the truck.

These trucks typically all suffer from a 12v vampiric drain (and "they come at night.....mostly").

You can also do this via the switch on the driver side kick panel.

 

[Third From Texas]

As to tools, what you don't or can't fly with you can always FexEx/UPS them ahead.

Some of the basic heavy stuff I just purchased at the pickup point before returning home with my truck.

 

[GCecchetto]

As to tools, what you don't or can't fly with you can always FexEx/UPS them ahead.

Some of the basic heavy stuff I just purchased at the pickup point before returning home with my truck.

Yes planning to pick up a few things, like a 3/4 breaker bar, on that end. Fortunately I'll either have my kid along with me or a buddy, so I can split tools across multiple airline tickets. Bought a full set of U-joints but will only take one or two with me. Also bought the tool to press out the u-joints and a torque multiplier, but I think I will return them, and then reorder them and have amazon deliver them to the guy that is storing the truck for Berend. Once I have everything pulled together, I make the call as to whether or not I need to ship anything ahead of the flight.

 

[Guyfang]

You can also use the Army tried and true method of securing the truck. Weld a heavy duty chain to someplace in the cab, and loop it through the steering wheel. Heavy duty lock. Like Third From Texas wrote, if someone wants to steal it, they will. You just need to make it harder.

 

[GCecchetto]

You can also use the Army tried and true method of securing the truck. Weld a heavy duty chain to someplace in the cab, and loop it through the steering wheel. Heavy duty lock. Like Third From Texas wrote, if someone wants to steal it, they will. You just need to make it harder.

I think I'll pass on the the army's method

 

[Guyfang]

It aint pretty, but it works!

 

[chucky]

Get you a piece of 3/8 maybe 1/2 in flatbar 2 in wide x 3 ft long and drill you a hole at 14 in and 24 in the bar with a half inch drill bit and go to harbour freight and buy 2 of the big chrome round copy of the american lock like 8 bucks each and slide the flat bar thru the universal joint at the back of the transfer case and hang a lock in each hole will really slow down them moving the truck !

 

[Wingnut13]

Man, pulling a few of the relays on the electric side would be a heck of a deterrent. Most people that own the trucks have a hard enough time with the electrical system. If you then could lock the fuse panel cover, that would be effective x 2!

Maybe a couple drilled holes, a couple nut-serts and a security philister head screws to keep it shut?

That would take just a couple minutes to open it, install the relays and your on the way.

 

[coachgeo]

Man, pulling a few of the relays on the electric side would be a heck of a deterrent. Most people that own the trucks have a hard enough time with the electrical system. If you then could lock the fuse panel cover, that would be effective x 2!

Maybe a couple drilled holes, a couple nut-serts and a security philister head screws to keep it shut?

That would take just a couple minutes to open it, install the relays and your on the way.

hmmm. that could be taken further. Don't remove relays.... but instead wire one or two post of them them to relays operated by a keypad. Key's on pad wired to their own relay's that break the ability for just the right OEM relay(s), to work (grounds them out or breaks power reaching them??) then add a few extra keys that break sections the keypad relays too so those key's dont work w/out the additional keys clicked properly too. Make sure there is a few dummy keys that are not connected to anything for a good measure. Net result.. you have to switch just just the right combination of keys on the keypad for anything to work.

If you are a fancier programmer like person... do it with Arduino?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Emergency air and parking brake control lock:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006L91I1O

Buy tools on Amazon and send them ahead of you. That's what I did for my drive from Houston to Portland.

The disconnect switch in the cab is a double pole single throw switch. One side operates the remote disconnect relay and one interrupts the ignition switch power. I added a keyed switch next to the disconnect switch that is in series with the ignition circuit.

Here's the schematics for the A1R:

FMTV Schematics A 0 A 1 R : Stewart and Stevenson : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

Family of Medium Tactical Vehicles wiring schematics. A0, A1, A1R WTEC III, A1R Gen IV

archive.org

 

[NotThatGuy]

I would also like to have some level of security when parking the truck over night at hotels on the way home.

I adapted this cheap driveway sensor to alert me when someone is in the cab of my truck.
https://www.harborfreight.com/wireless-security-alert-system-57937.html

I usually paint the sensor the same color as its environment as to blend it in.

It works well if you park your vehicle across from your hotel room.

You'll have to play with placing the PIR in the location of the cab as to not have innocent traffic set it off. (I either put it up high or down low). Velcro is your friend.

I usually take the PIR cover off and tape or paint over the red led so it won't be visible when triggered.

So far I've defeated one car burglar and one fire hydrant theft in 15 yrs using this cheap sensor.

FYI, Don't use cheap batteries. I use Duracell ProCells.

ADVICE; When your device is triggered, verify the unauthorized burglary;

1) Get a description of the suspect's clothes, accomplices' and vehicle'
2) CALL 911 AND WAIT. Trying to chase burglary suspects, at night, in an area you're unfamiliar with is almost useless, (believe me, your CCW will only make them run faster and you're probably outnumbered).

Btw, You can also deflate your tires with the CTIS to slow down a car thief.

 

[NotThatGuy]

I think I'll pass on the the army's method

I though the Army's method was assigning the lowest ranking soldier to sleep in the cab...

 

[chucky]

I adapted this cheap driveway sensor to alert me when someone was in the cab of my truck.

I usually paint the sensor the same color as its environment as to blend it in.

It works well if you park your vehicle across from your hotel room.

You'll have to play with placing the PIR in the location of the cab as to not have innocent traffic set it off. (I either put it up high or down low). Velcro is your friend.

I usually take the PIR cover off and tape or paint over the red led so it won't be visible when triggered.

So far I've caught one car burglar and one fire hydrant theft in 15 yrs using this cheap sensor.

FYI, Don't use cheap batteries. I use Duracell ProCells.

ADVICE; When your device is triggered, verify the unauthorized burglary, get a description of the suspect's clothes, accomplices' and vehicle. CALL 911 AND WAIT. Trying to chase burglary suspects, at night, in an area you're unfamiliar with is almost useless, (believe me, your CCW will only make them run faster and you're probably outnumbered).

Since you mentioned hotels this will help folks that stay in them ! I stayed in hotels 300 day a year min for 30 + yrs and have seen just about every way to come up missing things from hotel rooms which most times went back to maids doing the most thieving of all and i used a pelican travel case with the pull up handle that fits in overhead bins on planes it has 2 hasp holes and i would use a piece of aircraft cable with an eyelet on each end and i would put it around the base of the commode and lock the 2 ends to the 2 hasp on the case when i was going to be out of the room ! And i always balanced a ironing board against the door if it was to open more than a inch or 2 it would make the ironing board fall over and thats always loud enough to wake u up in time AND SCARE THEM ! We had to keep our passports with us year round and word had it that the bad guys would offer big money to maids for passports or any i ds they could scarf from rooms !

 

[Guyfang]

Real passports are big money.

 

[Awesomeness]

There is a 12v cig lighter outlet on the passenger kick panel

Is that standard on the A1R's?

 

[fuzzytoaster]

Is that standard on the A1R's?

Yes, and it came with the later 2004 year model A1 trucks too.