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Texas
Hello! I'm a USAF enlisted fellow new to the forums and new to military vehicles. I'm glad to be on the site! I have a truck that's titled as a 1957 REO Flatbed (M35A2?) - the guy I bought it from says the VIN plate is from a different truck, and that this one is actually a 1977 truck. I'm sure that you guys know which year is closer to the truth.

I plan on swapping out my D turbo for a C turbo this weekend :grin: Any advice?

Also, what is the switch on the far bottom left of the dash that says "heater element"? The plate is faded so I can't tell, but I suppose that probably heats the fuel for cold weather conditions?

I have driven the truck about 400 miles, and the truck died twice. Both times I disconnected the truck-side of the fuel pump (it's an external 10-14PSI) and let it run for a second to pump out any junk that may have been in there. After that the truck starts up fine. Any ideas?

Thanks everyone!
 

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63sierra10

New member
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Worland, Wy
Clean out your tank and change your filters. I would also determine what was wrong with the original pump. The turbo thing all I can say is take your time and do it right. The bolts on the back of the turbo to manifold can be a pain but you can remove it without taking the manifold out, I know because I did it. That switch is probably for the manifold heater and is actually only supposed to be used while the engine is cranking. Welcome to the site and enjoy. There is a lot of help on here and use the resources section for TM's and also use the search feature to read other threads of how people did things.
 
59
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Location
Texas
I have replacement filters; I suppose I should find out which are primary and secondary. I've been looking through the resources section for a m35a2 manual, but I didn't find it. I'll probably have to buy one on Ebay.

Actually, I think upon closer inspection that plate says "*something* cleaner element".

Thanks for the quick response.
 

63sierra10

New member
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There is an operators manual in the TM section of the resources, you will have to scroll through and find it also there are all the other manuals for it and other vehicles as well. There may be somebody in the classified section selling any manual you want for it if you don't feel like printing them off of the site.
 

clinto

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Do a search here on SS for "VIN AND frame" and you should find some threads which show where the VIN is stamped on the frame and how to decode it.

Ditto to 63sierra's comments-go download the operator's manual and read it through. It will answer a lot of your questions and you will be much more familiar with the truck and it's operation.
 

Recovry4x4

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Educate oneself by reading the TM.s We have made them available free of charge here on Steel Soldiers. Go to the top, click on resources then scroll down to technical manuals. Once there search for TM 9-2320-361-10 and TM 9-2320-361-20 as starters. Right click on them and save them to your computer for best results. The -10 is the operators and the -20 is the unit maintenance manual. You can also grab the TM 9-2320-361-34, TM 9-2320-361-20P and TM 9-2320-361-34P. That completes that series of TM. All of the 209 manuals are a different series.

Welcome aboard.
 

wreckerman893

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The primary filter is shorter than the secondaries.

Take the time and effort to clean out the tank....it has baffles in it so you can only get so much crud out of it. I let mine air dry with the drain plug out and then used a shop vac to suck out all the crap I could.
 
59
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Location
Texas
Gotcha. After I drain/clean the tanks, what do I have to do to prime the fuel system again? Just let the pump run for a minute before starting the truck?

I don't have access to 110 for a shop vac - I would have to find some other way to clean the tank. Looking at the manual, it talks about turning the draincock on the fuel filter to drain dirty fuel - is this a legitimate alternative to replacing the filters if they're fairly new?
 
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Location
Texas
Update - turbo swap was a success! I'm obviously an amateur, because it took me about four hours to do it - but it was worth it.

On a side note, since I've had the truck it sounds like a belt squeaks immediately after startup, and sometimes at idle. Is there a hidden culprit, or should I just replace the belts?

Thanks!
 

Ord22

Member
571
3
18
Location
Stockbridge, Ga
welcome to the site!! let the pump push the fuel into the engine for a couple of minutes. it should start right up. the squealing is from your belts. need to replace them. to replace the air compressor belt. there are 2 bolts on the pulley, loosen them. use a big wrench and turn the pulley and you will notice the belt getting tight. tighten the 2 bolts and should be good for that belt. there is a special wrench for the air compressor pulley.
 
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