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New Member/New Questions

Idaho19D

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boise
Hello...this is a great site. I already have a few questions. I have a 1009 that I bought last year and I'm trying to get some things fixed before the snow flies.
If I'm in the wrong place to ask just let me know and I'll move threads. To start off ( I know this is sacra-ledge ) I converted to 12V. I had my reasons.
When I start it in the morning it starts right up, no smoke at all. All my other starts through the day are 8-10 sec cranks before it will turn over, sometimes longer. It seems that it really wants to be cold before it will start. Any thoughts? ( have done new GPR, plugs and new battery)
The other is a trans problem. It doesn't want to shift into 2nd until about 35mph. When it does shift it is a jolt but so far its a soft jolt and not the hard metal to metal kind. I don't have the facilities for a tranny rebuild but I'm thinking that is what is needed?
Thank you in advance for any help you can throw my way.
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
check the vacuum lines on the vacuum pump to the transmission. I cant comment on the truck since you converted it to 12v sorry.
 
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Idaho19D

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boise
I'll check them. Replaced the VCV but the problem still exists. I have a buddy who has the vacuum equipment and is going to help me with it. Thanks
 

Jeremiah_Johnson

New member
42
0
0
Location
Blairsville, GA
warm starts longer than cold starts

1st off how many miles on M1009 , you will need to replace all rubber fuel lines and make sure your filter base does not leak ( spin on base ) is the most chosen way to go . And most often a electric fuel pump as well . when you get an tight sealed fuel system you get better overall starts.. your injection pump might be your problem as it warms up it's pressure will drop . I herd if you pour cold water on your pump when it is up to normal temp & it cranks better then it is your pump!! as well with your trans change all rubber lines , there is some adjustment on the vacuum switch that is bolted on left side of your Injection Pump ..
 

Idaho19D

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boise
84k on the truck, all rubber fuel lines have been replaced and the pump is freshly rebuilt. No fuel leaks from the filter. I'll check on some of your other suggestions and let ya know....ty. As for the tranny yea I gotta see what its holding for vacuum and then I'll start probably replacing hoses.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
just because you dont see any fuel leaks does not mean it is not loosing its prime. Had this issues and ended up switching to a racor spin on fuel base and all new fuel lines and no issues anymore.
 

Jeremiah_Johnson

New member
42
0
0
Location
Blairsville, GA
Transmission shifting late

My trans was also shifting at 35 mph and 50 mph , I checked for vacuum and had 15psi replaced modulator on trans and rubber lines still shifted at 35 & 50 mph . put old modulator back on same ? checked adjustment at IP finality bypassed it . tried driving and shift point went from 1st to drive , so hooked back up at IP Switch and found that my rubber hoses were on reversed ( the vacuum line goes on top line to trans goes on bottom ) at IP switch , Done a little adjustment here and now have shift point of 25 MPH and 40 ish MPH to Drive . so i now have a new modulator might as well put it on .
 

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Idaho19D

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boise
Thanks Jeremiah..I'm going to replace some questionable lines and prob drop in a new modulator. Took the old one off today, should have waited till the engine was cooler, and cleaned and inspected it. Seemed to be working fine but I don't have access to a block gauge to get the timing to TM spec but it didn't seem to matter. Tried three different positions and no change in shift points. Asked a mechanic buddy on base about it and he told me to pull the plates off of it and they might be able to look at it in their shop...sounds to good to be true. I'll let ya know what I find and thanks again.
 
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