Triple Jim
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Your neighbors must have had a heck of a party if they're still nursing headaches.
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lol +1your neighbors must have had a heck of a party if they're still nursing headaches.
Good point......They're probably not, but wanted to be considerate anyway...a general rule around here--no big noises until about 1100 CST....except one of my other neighbors (from Maryland) who doesn't care how much noise he makes at 0800 any day of the week....Your neighbors must have had a heck of a party if they're still nursing headaches.
Just got done with a 45-minute run with good speed & voltage & no radiator leaks...still not 100% confident until I can get it under a good load, but was encouraged that my solder repairs held. Ended up repairing two leaks and soldering over a couple other areas where the tubes were impacted by the runaway nut....now time to put things back together and complete the single phase conversion...thanks for staying on scene...Yup, pretty much the same situation I have. I do the monthly 003A exercise runs midday on weekdays when most of the neighbors are at work. If the nearest one ever complains about noise during an outage, I plan to offer the convenience outlet to him. I've run a 1500W heater from it, so it should handle a refrigerator and a couple lights.
I'll be waiting to hear how your light-off goes.
You should be good-to-go on the MEP3....after Hurricane Katrina hit my son & I towed our MEP3 over to the family homestead in Bay St. Louis and wired it to the whole house (an old 2 story 7 BR) with multiple window AC units, 2 fridges, 2 freezers & all the lights & fans they wanted to run. I ran the set 2 1/2 weeks without shutting it down, fueling once in the morning & once at midnight. At that time I had no knowledge of the aux fuel system where I could have pulled from one of the 55 gal drums I had filled for the job. Anyway, she didn't miss a beat the whole time. Finally was able to shut it down when the power company showed up to restore power. They were happy I had pulled the meter to do the hook-up as one of their men had been killed due to someone back-feeding the line with a small generator plugged through their 240v dryer plug--some kind of 2-plug setup they had made.Hey, that's good news. I know what you mean about building confidence. Last time I exercised my 003A it powered the whole house for 2-1/2 hours and nothing odd happened, so I'm starting to get the idea that I might be able to rely on it. I'm glad your radiator repair held. That's a lot better than having to fix it two or three times before it's leak-free.
Just a suggestion 1800 diesel. . . the element(s) you pull out of that elkectric water heater can NOT be used as a load in free air. They must be immersed in water - self destruct time in the air is a matter of seconds.I'll be removing a perfectly good electric HW heater when I start converting all our heavy load stuff to gas-- I'll have the elements available from this heater and will also have a couple oven range elements too when I pull that monster out of the kitchen...can't wait 'til that day comes....
I amin CT too. Do you have any of the electric furnaces or air handlers that are being scrapped?Just a suggestion 1800 diesel. . . the element(s) you pull out of that elkectric water heater can NOT be used as a load in free air. They must be immersed in water - self destruct time in the air is a matter of seconds.
fwiw if you are looking for a 'load' for your genset, try talking to a large hvac contractor. If they pull out an old heat pump system (changing from R22 to the new R410 type rerfrigerants) they usually scrap the indoor air handler. Most of these systems have electric backup heat strips in the air handler. 15kw of backup will often be 3 5kw strips, each with its own 24volt control / delay circuit. It should be fairly easy to rewire the air handler to switch in/out 5kw at a time. With the blower operating (a must) you will have simple, inexpensive load with no water required. Most of our customers just throw these units away.
Sorry edgephoto, I work for a distributor we (hopefully) don't get anything backI amin CT too. Do you have any of the electric furnaces or air handlers that are being scrapped?
Another alternative is to find a few 'scrap' electric stoves. The oven elements are capable of free air operation (don't require a fan even) and some are rated at 4-5Kw. Each oven has two (broil on the top, bake on the bottom, along with stove-top elements of lesser power. Just using the broil and bake elements, mounted in a safe fashion, can serve as an excellent dummy load for MEP-004 and even a MEP-005 as well as some smaller generator sets, too......
fwiw if you are looking for a 'load' for your genset, try talking to a large hvac contractor. If they pull out an old heat pump system (changing from R22 to the new R410 type rerfrigerants) they usually scrap the indoor air handler. ...
Actually, I had planned to use the old tank and just weld in more couplings to add more elements...if that doesn't work, I'll use an old 200-gallon propane tank and weld multiple couplings in that (for the required elements), add water and with the breakers, switches and wiring, be good-to-go...thanks.Just a suggestion 1800 diesel. . . the element(s) you pull out of that elkectric water heater can NOT be used as a load in free air. They must be immersed in water - self destruct time in the air is a matter of seconds.
fwiw if you are looking for a 'load' for your genset, try talking to a large hvac contractor. If they pull out an old heat pump system (changing from R22 to the new R410 type rerfrigerants) they usually scrap the indoor air handler. Most of these systems have electric backup heat strips in the air handler. 15kw of backup will often be 3 5kw strips, each with its own 24volt control / delay circuit. It should be fairly easy to rewire the air handler to switch in/out 5kw at a time. With the blower operating (a must) you will have simple, inexpensive load with no water required. Most of our customers just throw these units away.
I'm sure that will be fine 1800 Diesel. In our market the most popular electric heater size is 50 gallons and there are 2 4500 watt elements (usually non-simulataneously on). If you do 'jerry-rig' your water heater be sure that the relief valve is piped close to the ground - jic it ever blows, you don't want a faceful of steamActually, I had planned to use the old tank and just weld in more couplings to add more elements...if that doesn't work, I'll use an old 200-gallon propane tank and weld multiple couplings in that (for the required elements), add water and with the breakers, switches and wiring, be good-to-go...thanks.
At the moment I do not have a truck so I am not sure I can get an air handler in my Touareg.Sorry edgephoto, I work for a distributor we (hopefully) don't get anything back
About 2 years ago we converted my daughter's new to her condo from a warm air electric heat unit to a high eff heat pump - I should have thought about saving the old one.
I might have a line on one tho thru one of our customers. Would you be willing to pick it up in Southington if its still available?
So you do not have a pump at all??? Or the one you have does not work?Do any of you guys know of a source (besides Delk's) that would have an IP for a MEP-004?
I've posted a thread previously, but not had much luck.
Some lucky fellow(s) bought a couple pairs of the 198 engines (NOS) last year off GL--1 pair went for $400 & the other pair went for $650 or so. Problem is figuring out who bought them. I'd buy one engine for that money if I could--just to have a spare (including the IP)....In the meantime, I'll keep my radar up & running....My generator was sans IP when I got it.
Very expensive for a replacement, but I'm looking for a take-off or rebuildable core.
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