New proportioning valve for M1009

[85CUCVtom]

I know this has been discussed before on SS but I am curious if anyone has used this valve as a replacement for the original OEM unit. According to JEGS this should fit the bill:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/631290/10002/-1

It appears to be correct but can anyone confirm? It looks to be the same valve sold on Inline Tube and other brake part suppliers.

Thanks.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Somewhere on this site, someone posted a scan of a mid-80s Chevy Service Bulletin that said, basically, they are more trouble than they are worth and dealerships should remove them and NOT replace them if they come in for service.

 

[cucvrus]

Somewhere on this site, someone posted a scan of a mid-80s Chevy Service Bulletin that said, basically, they are more trouble than they are worth and dealerships should remove them and NOT replace them if they come in for service.

I think you are referring to the rear axle brake valve on the rear axle of the pick up trucks. But the one he is showing will be required on all CUCV models. No way to get away from that one.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I ended up ordering that valve. We will see how it works. I really didn’t want to replace it but I can’t get the little thing on the side to reset to bleed the brakes. It actually looks like someone hit that needle with a hammer at some point. I’m going to install it tonight or tomorrow and post a few pictures.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nyoffroad]

I ended up ordering that valve. We will see how it works. I really didn’t want to replace it but I can’t get the little thing on the side to reset to bleed the brakes. It actually looks like someone hit that needle with a hammer at some point. I’m going to install it tonight or tomorrow and post a few pictures.
To get the shuttle vale to reset after replacing a brake line just have someone step GENTLY on the pedal and then crack open a bleeder screw on the other end of the vehicle, in other words say you replaced a rear line after bleeding the lights still just open a front bleeder and gently allow some fluid out that will allow the shuttle to reset. If you open the bleeder to fast or your helper is standing on the pedal you may go 'to far' and have to then open a rear bleeder. Easy peasy!

 

[Barrman]

I have been able to get that little pin to reset by stomping the brakes very hard several times. Of course, the brakes have to be bled and in good working order at all 4 corners for this to remotely work. I also can’t figure out why stomping very hard works, but it does. Or at least it has for me on a M1009 and a 1984 C20 Suburban.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I get what you are saying. Crack the bleeder farthest away from where you were working. I'll give it a shot but I'm fairly certain the valve is damaged. I have one of the tools for clipping onto the shuttle valve to hold the pin in- it won't even go on. It looks like someone hit the head of the shuttle valve with a hammer and pushed the whole valve farther into the body of the proportioning valve. Kinda weird.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Alright, I swapped in the new valve today. The install went really well until it came time to bleed the system. I'm pretty sure I tripped the shuttle valve because I cannot get my rear brakes to bleed and I have a mushy pedal. I have the Kent-Moore tool (mentioned on here before) that clips onto the valve to hold in the little bit but I still cannot get the rears to bleed.

Any tips on how to "reset" the valve?

 

[TGP (IL)]

If you have no fluid at the rear, then you have to open the front slightly and push
Fluid out the front to simulate a leak.
This will move the valve the other way.
Then start over with the rear.
You have to go slowly until some pressure is built to keep.
The valve centered.

You always open the opposite end of the system to move the valve.

Tom

 

[85CUCVtom]

If you have no fluid at the rear, then you have to open the front slightly and push
Fluid out the front to simulate a leak.
This will move the valve the other way.
Then start over with the rear.
You have to go slowly until some pressure is built to keep.
The valve centered.

You always open the opposite end of the system to move the valve.

Tom

Makes sense. I’ll give it a try. Probably won’t get a chance to work on it until later in the week but I’ll let you know how it works out. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nyoffroad]

If you have no fluid at the rear, then you have to open the front slightly and push
Fluid out the front to simulate a leak.
This will move the valve the other way.
Then start over with the rear.
You have to go slowly until some pressure is built to keep.
The valve centered.

You always open the opposite end of the system to move the valve.

Tom

Thank you for explaining it much better than I could.