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new pump not pumping
- Thread starter big hoss
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Blendmaster2002
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Have you checked the fuel shut off lever behind the cover that the fuel shut off rod comes out of to see if its free and not sicking?
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Blendmaster2002
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It needs to be free, the arm under the cover you see with the rod attached to it with a clip, the arm is held in place by the retaining bar with two screws that are safety wired, where it pivots it has a shaft with an o ring seal, the shaft goes straight back and controls the fuel shut off slide valve slides up and down at the end of the shaft is a little brass flat headed pin that transfers the movement, do not try to force this linkage as this is the would be the weak link. I will try explain how to take it apart and put it back together in another post.
Blendmaster2002
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after reading your last post I am unclear if you are having trouble with the arm under the cover on the IP or the rod sticking on the cover that the fuel shut off cable attaches to? if its the rod on the cover just lube it with engine oil as the seal is dry.
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Blendmaster2002
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Ok, yeah I was just trying to diagnose it for you if the fuel shut off was working properly it may be head unit related, button fell off etc. one step at a time.
Blendmaster2002
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Here is a few pics from the TM9-2910-226-34, it should help you visualize how it works a bit.
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Recht71
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OOPS I posted twice Thats definitely could be the problem that Blendmaster talking about. Also there a maybe called a booster pump it's on the side under the injector pump below the head, long two lines coming out the bottom.The line from tank goes in check to see if have pressure on the out side while cranking engine , it boost the presure to the pump. The picture Blendmaster posted the plate the shaft goes thru there'a o ring make sure thats good if not it will let fuel into crank case. I know that cause it happen to me on a LDS engine I bought that was a take out after 8 months. The srews were wired but the two screws were not even close to being on in a few threads and the o ring only part of it was still there .
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gimpyrobb
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The fuel shut off rod in the first TM pic needs to move freely.
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Blendmaster2002
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From what I understand its best to post a video on you tube then link it.
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Gimp:
Do you mean the black piece that has a small rod attached at bottom end? I got the small rod to move OK when unattached but can not get the black piece to swing. Is this normal or something locking it up?
Also, do you know where to get parts for these IP's?
Thanks for the help,
Orren
Blendmaster2002
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Orren, the black arm needs to be free, what it does when you pull the fuel shut off the rod in the cover pulls the black arm back, which turns its shaft where the nut is behind the retaining plate with the two screws, on the end of the shaft is a little flat headed pin that transfers the shaft movement to up and down movement of the slide valve on the Head unit which opens or closes fuel to the head unit.
See my post #8 in this thread for tm illustrations, on the head unit picture the flat headed pin plugs in where the slot is labeled A.
See Gimpyrobb,s post #10 for real world photos of the arm being disassembled.
If it is froze do not force it as the little flat headed pin may get sheared, you will need to remove it, you already have the rod and clip disconnected, before removing anything I usually take a rag (an old t shirt works great) and put it down like a blanket tucked under the IP and up the fender to catch anything like the clip you already removed or the little flat pin etc.
take off the screws and retaining plate, then you can pull the shut off arm/shaft like in Gimpyrobb’s above pics, you will see the flat pin on the end of the shaft, now with a flash light and mirror (or looking through the fender vent) you can see the flat slide valve, spray your favorite break free lubricant in there through the hole, now work the valve up and down until it takes virtually no effort with a small blade screw driver.
when you put it back together lube everything with light oil and check the condition of the o ring seal on the shaft I lube it too, when putting it back together it will be a pain the first time you do this probably multiple attempts you must line up the flat pin with the slot in the valve on the hh, also the plate with the arm/shaft with the two holes in it has a top and bottom it must go back with the same side up or it will not clear the cover gasket.
I have found for me It makes it easier to put a little oil in the flat head pin's hole on the end of the shaft so you can use the slight hydraulic action to pull the pin out a little to help line up engagement with the valve on the HH unit.
See my post #8 in this thread for tm illustrations, on the head unit picture the flat headed pin plugs in where the slot is labeled A.
See Gimpyrobb,s post #10 for real world photos of the arm being disassembled.
If it is froze do not force it as the little flat headed pin may get sheared, you will need to remove it, you already have the rod and clip disconnected, before removing anything I usually take a rag (an old t shirt works great) and put it down like a blanket tucked under the IP and up the fender to catch anything like the clip you already removed or the little flat pin etc.
take off the screws and retaining plate, then you can pull the shut off arm/shaft like in Gimpyrobb’s above pics, you will see the flat pin on the end of the shaft, now with a flash light and mirror (or looking through the fender vent) you can see the flat slide valve, spray your favorite break free lubricant in there through the hole, now work the valve up and down until it takes virtually no effort with a small blade screw driver.
when you put it back together lube everything with light oil and check the condition of the o ring seal on the shaft I lube it too, when putting it back together it will be a pain the first time you do this probably multiple attempts you must line up the flat pin with the slot in the valve on the hh, also the plate with the arm/shaft with the two holes in it has a top and bottom it must go back with the same side up or it will not clear the cover gasket.
I have found for me It makes it easier to put a little oil in the flat head pin's hole on the end of the shaft so you can use the slight hydraulic action to pull the pin out a little to help line up engagement with the valve on the HH unit.
gimpyrobb
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Blendmaster(and Warren) that piece I have removed in the last pic is actually a housing and the fuel shutoff rod. The fuel shutoff rod can get rusted or gummed up inside that housing.
LET ME WARN YOU,
If it gets rusted up you have a 50/50 chance of breaking something!
It is easier to pull that fuel shutoff rod out, and then take it apart by itself to free up. The problem is, to pull it apart, you have to take a nut off a shaft that is VERY inclined to shear off. I have not had much luck taking them apart without shearing. To be on the safe side, once its out, see if it will swivel easily as the issue could be rust on the shaft that the fuel block slides on. No reason to take things apart if the issue is caused by something else.
I know Blendmaster touched on the subject, but it could be two different things.
LET ME WARN YOU,
If it gets rusted up you have a 50/50 chance of breaking something!
It is easier to pull that fuel shutoff rod out, and then take it apart by itself to free up. The problem is, to pull it apart, you have to take a nut off a shaft that is VERY inclined to shear off. I have not had much luck taking them apart without shearing. To be on the safe side, once its out, see if it will swivel easily as the issue could be rust on the shaft that the fuel block slides on. No reason to take things apart if the issue is caused by something else.
I know Blendmaster touched on the subject, but it could be two different things.