• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

New rear wheel seals and bearings for the 1009 today

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
A few days ago the right rear wheel seal went out on the 1009 oil slung all over so today was fix it day. I decided since the cover was off the differential I would replace both sides so I didnt end up doing the other one down the road. After pulling the old seals I checked the bearings and figured what the hay Its apart so replace them I got the bearings and seals from NAPA and made sure the bearings were made in the USA part #R1559-TV and wheel seals part #16404. The bearings are a bear to get out so I bought a slide hammer type puller and finally got them out you will need a 1 7/8 inch socket to drive the bearings and seals into the axle tube when assembling it back together. Now back out to refill the differential and take it for a test drive I replaced the bolt that holds the pin in to keep the axles tight against the C clips too its the first one I ever took out that was not cracked off inside the pin.
 

mr.travo

Member
422
0
16
Location
Comfort, TX
Ok, I got a LAAAAAAATE start today (only had about an hour to mess with it) and I can seem to find the C-clamps. Like every military manual, it's hard as &)&$*(&$(#*#)(*( to understand what the **** they are trying to explain with taking it apart. What is the trick to getting the clamps out and what do I need to be doing?

I was going to do the wheel bearings too, but no one had the puller at the shops and I didn't feel like Richard-ing with it. I don't have really any up or down movement out of the axles and no noise. Anyway- I really can't do crap until I get these friggin' things out.

Thanks for the help, I learn better by hands on. Reading then doing isn't my cup of tea at all.

Travo
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
If you have the lock pin out of the differential you will have to push the axle in toward the differential from the outside where the wheel bolts up. By pushing it in you will have the clearance to pull the C clip out if you dont do this you will be fighting with it all day.
 

mr.travo

Member
422
0
16
Location
Comfort, TX
Ok, I will have to get back on it after church tomorrow. The pin fell out while I was messing with it and now it's a little snug when it goes in all the way. I didn't screw anything up did I? I know the -34 says to MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T FALL OUT OR THE TERRORISTS WILL COME AND GET YOU (or something like that). Are they just trying to keep the locker from imploding or is it a one shot thing? I can't afford to be paying someone to fix my mess.

Thanks!
 

mr.travo

Member
422
0
16
Location
Comfort, TX
Ok- I have looked and looked again at the **** manual. I CANNOT FOR THE FRIGGIN LIFE OF ME find these **** clips that hold the axle shaft in. I do EVERYTHING the manual says and tried turning the axle to expose the clips and nothing. I am stumped and pissed. I need this up and running for work tomorrow and I am dead in the **** water.

Please let me know what I am doing wrong.
 

mr.travo

Member
422
0
16
Location
Comfort, TX
Ok, so I called in my helper and she pushed the axles in and I FINALLY saw the clips I was looking for! For some reason, I wasn't seeing them when I pushed it in myself. ANYWAY- got both the seals changed out and was taking a break. When I went to stand up, my back caught the bottom edge of one of the contact truck bin doors and I sliced my back open. So needless to say I am done for the day. I got everything buttoned up except for the diff cover. I just love Murphy.

Thanks for the help and tips. Once I saw the clips, everything started making sense and the tips helped A LOT!

I appreciate it!

Travo
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Yes they are a pain doing the first one but after doing one they are a breeze to do the biggest problem usually the hardened bolt holding the pinion bolt breaks and extracting the broken piece is a bear. If anyone has a problem with this you can take a piece of 3/16 brake line tape the flared end to a shop vac hose and stick the brake line into the hole and the vacuum will hold the broken piece to the brake line end for extraction.
 

mr.travo

Member
422
0
16
Location
Comfort, TX
Well- got ants in the pants and toughed it out and finished bolting everything back together. No fluid leaking or problems. I am sorry for the frustrating posts, but I need it to go to work tomorrow and I get nervous when I am learning something new on my own.

All in all, everything went pretty easy once I figured out the clips. Now I know how to do it and I am pretty happy about that. I think next month I will do the front so at least I know it's done.

Thanks for all the help!

Travo
 

richter1978

Member
30
0
6
Location
jax fl
How do you physically remove the clips. I've pushed the shaft in and can see and spin the c- clip but can't grab it to remove. Aarrgh, please help!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks