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new starter hitting flywhell sometimes

tm america

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you have you check clearence on every starter you install take a 1/8inch drill bit it should just fit between the tooth on the flywheel and the shaft on the starter if its loose take the shim out if its does slide in ad shims till it does
 

doghead

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The shimming procedure is in the -20 TM. You do need to check the tooth engagement, anytime you change starters.


4. Remove 6 bolts (25) and access
cover (27) from transmission housing
(26) . Measure clearance between
starter pinion (24) tooth and flywheel
(23). Clearance should be 0.02 in. to
0.06 in. (0.50 mm to 1.50 mm). Add
shims (10) as required. Install access
cover (27) with 6 bolts.




If you look at the TM, there's even a nice picture to make it easier to understand.



 
Last edited:

84cucv1ton

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looked at the tms. so i check the tooth clearance but how do i get the gear out to check? know what i mean?? am i missing something ?
 

84cucv1ton

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cant slid it out. still not sure on this one.. when i started it, sounded like it was tight. trucks starts and the starter goes with the flywheel for a few seconds.
 

doghead

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It will come out, if you rotate it with a screwdriver(against the gear teeth). It "spirals" out.
 

SmokeyDod

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Easley, SC
If you are using one of the orig. 24V starters than came with trucks, take a look at this. I just now went in my shop a looked at 5 starters. All but one says "Do Not Shim" or "No Shim" stamped on them. They other one was not stamped at all. They were stamped either on the flat area between bolts holes on the alum nose pc where it contacts the eng block or also "casted" NO SHIM on back side of the alum part of nose where the solonoid is bolted on to it. I noticed also that all ones with no shim has the letter "A" cast right above the words no shim. On the one that I said that it did not say anything, it has the letter "B" cast on the back where the solonoid bolts. Looks like to me there are two versions of "alum nose pcs" "A" which does not require shim and the "B" type that does need a shim.

Hope this helps someone.
 

OLDCHEV4X4

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Everytime I ever shimmed a starter, I would take the solonoid off and then bolt it up. Then you can move the bendix drive in and out by hand.
 

beanman1

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in the south
on my gear reduction starter i had to have the nose cone milled down to get the correct alinement on it and when i got the new one that warthog sent me i had to change out the new nose cone for the one that i had milled for it to work also i dont know why i gues every manufacturer is diffrent
 

84cucv1ton

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milled down?? that might have been my problem. never thought of it. had the old one rebuilt. put it in. not problems to the 400 went
 
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