New to M35, getting started, where am I leaking?

[cattlerepairman]

If you need a valve and/or a spring I have both if you need it.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[clob mcstrunk]

No big deal to replace a spring, with the piston at TDC. It's a one-man job and can be done with no special tools.)

You can do the spring without pulling the head. Put the piston at TDC compression and replace the spring.

Apparently I wasn't paying close attention, but it is the exhaust valve on the second cylinder, (4th from the front of engine.) Will the rope-in-the-cylinder trick work in this case?

Big thanks to @cattlerepairman for the quick hook-up with new springs, I should have them tomorrow and plan to tackle it this weekend.

 

[gringeltaube]

Will the rope-in-the-cylinder trick work in this case?

No rope and no trick needed, since when the piston is all the way up it will hold the valve(s) in place, almost closed.

Just spin the crank about one 3rd of a turn past the point where the intake valve of that cylinder has closed. That should be your TC, more or less.
To confirm, use a lever and pry down on the valve stem itself. Travel should be limited to 1/16", at most.

 

[WillWagner]

You can use a compressor like this. I have one if you would like to try it.

16750 Valve Spring Compressor

An "ON THE CAR" Tool.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Well, here's the damage, wanted to update all that helped.

And again, thanks to @cattlerepairman for the parts!



When I get a chance to get back in the garage, Ill snap a pic of the compression assistance tool I made to hold the spring while installing the valve locks. I started with trying to lever the top of the retainer down via a drilled prybar but didnt feel comfortable with the leverage point or the purchase it had on top. So of course I spent an hour making a compression plate.....that worked like a champ, but will likely never get touched again.

 

[WillWagner]

Does it run better?

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Ha! Ill have to update again once Im at that point. I've got a good feeling about it though, so that counts for something, right?!

 

[frank8003]

You guys are smart adept cool

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Here the quick valve spring compressor tool I made. The hole on the left is held in by the rocker arm bolt, the right is lined up with a valve cover bolt. The large center hole is large enough to slip the valve locks through but small enough that the retainer cannot. Tighten both sides evenly, compressing the valve spring until the top of the valve is proud of the retainer to be able to literally drop in the locks, then remove the whole thing.

Ill start the bidding at $250.

 

[cattlerepairman]

clever!

 

[V8srfun]

Wow that spring was wrecked.

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Does it run better?

Id say so! Sounds night and day different, much smoother sounding. Started within 2 seconds, whereas prior I would have to hold for 5-10 seconds and sometimes max out the throttle cable to get it to crank up.

Also, never had it above 50mph before.

As for the leaking, there is still some leaking, but night and day different than before.

 

[M37M35]

Id say so! Sounds night and day different, much smoother sounding. Started within 2 seconds, whereas prior I would have to hold for 5-10 seconds and sometimes max out the throttle cable to get it to crank up.

Also, never had it above 50mph before.

As for the leaking, there is still some leaking, but night and day different than before.

Awesome!!

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Wanted to bring this back to the top with an update.

The leaking that started this hunting expedition has been stopped since last year. Truck has been in various stages of torn-apart since then and I've probably only got about 30-50 miles on it since then. There is still oil on (almost) everything that there was originally, but none on the ground under the truck.

Anyways, as I was spending time on the underside of things, I grabbed ahold of the front driveshaft to pull myself forward and felt about a half-inch (?) of slop.

The MF oil leak that I spent hours upon hours, and hundreds of dollars on diagnosing and trying to fix, turned out to be the front axle, rear-facing pinion seal.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Wanted to bring this back to the top with an update.

The leaking that started this hunting expedition has been stopped since last year. Truck has been in various stages of torn-apart since then and I've probably only got about 30-50 miles on it since then. There is still oil on (almost) everything that there was originally, but none on the ground under the truck.

Anyways, as I was spending time on the underside of things, I grabbed ahold of the front driveshaft to pull myself forward and felt about a half-inch (?) of slop.

The MF oil leak that I spent hours upon hours, and hundreds of dollars on diagnosing and trying to fix, turned out to be the front axle, rear-facing pinion seal.

If there is that much slop, it might be worth checking the pinion bearings, too. Otherwise the new seal will start to leak in short order.

Look at this thread for a few tips: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rockwell-pinion-bearing-help-please.156915/

If you end up needing bearings: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/pinion-bearings-napa.54205/

 

[clob mcstrunk]

Yep, absolutely going to be doing more than just the seal. I don't want to have to tear it all back apart a second time just to do something I should have done right the first time. HA!

 

[rickdavis81]

Pick up some UV dye from the parts store. Let it run for a bit then black light it. They make they dye or about every fluid and ac.