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New to me M1008

Finnegan1008

Active member
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Location
Connecticut
Hey all, I’m new to the site and also have a new to me CUCV.

I plan to get this truck completely sorted out and want to do it properly. It has had both some beneficial and some questionable modifications. So far reading through old threads has answered 90% of my questions.

One concern I have about the truck is the prior owner who wasn’t very mechanically inclined drove the truck full time with the hubs locked. The truck isn’t very high mileage and everything seems to work ok.

what damage could this have caused and how should I check for any issues?
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
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Location
Rodeo, Ca
The front axle is rated to run with the hubs locked full time. If there are lots of highway miles, there is a needle bearing that supports the outer end of the axle shaft inside the spindle that gets hammered. This bearing rides directly on the axle shaft and requires replacement of the outer if there is damage.

It spins the chain in the transfer case. You may want to check for wear on the chain.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
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Location
Rodeo, Ca
The old ones work well. They have electrolytic capacitors so NOS might not work after sitting on a shelf for so long. An old one might be more of a gamble.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Charlotte NC
Hey all, I’m new to the site and also have a new to me CUCV.

I plan to get this truck completely sorted out and want to do it properly. It has had both some beneficial and some questionable modifications. So far reading through old threads has answered 90% of my questions.

One concern I have about the truck is the prior owner who wasn’t very mechanically inclined drove the truck full time with the hubs locked. The truck isn’t very high mileage and everything seems to work ok.

what damage could this have caused and how should I check for any issues?
.
Welcome to the Outfit!

And yes, like @Tinstar suggested reading old threads will help you a lot.
There are quite a few guys here who have plenty of knowledge to share.

Glad you are the new owner of a piece of green hardware.

Snap us up some pictures! It doesn't matter what it looks like. It will get better the more you work on it - and YOU will be amazed at how much difference there will be in just a few months...
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
502
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
Hey all, I’m new to the site and also have a new to me CUCV.

I plan to get this truck completely sorted out and want to do it properly. It has had both some beneficial and some questionable modifications. So far reading through old threads has answered 90% of my questions.

One concern I have about the truck is the prior owner who wasn’t very mechanically inclined drove the truck full time with the hubs locked. The truck isn’t very high mileage and everything seems to work ok.

what damage could this have caused and how should I check for any issues?
If you plan on keeping the 6.2 diesel, swap a new harmonic balancer on it ASAP. Your existing unit may look okay, but don't trust a 35yr old balancer with dried out rubber. That is a known weak spot in these engines
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
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1,991
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
There are 3 options on the damper. The cheap aftermarket for $80. There is the Fluidampr for $500. Dayco has a midrange option for $300. I didn't like what I was seeing with the Chinese options. The Dayco premium is made in Australia.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
502
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
There are 3 options on the damper. The cheap aftermarket for $80. There is the Fluidampr for $500. Dayco has a midrange option for $300. I didn't like what I was seeing with the Chinese options. The Dayco premium is made in Australia.
I put the Dorman oem style balancers on both of my 6.2's. They work just fine...
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
502
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
I didn’t think of this but makes sense.

New damper will be incoming. Is it about the same job as swapping one on a Chevy gasser?

Do any of the TMs cover it?
The OEM balancers tend to come apart when the rubber dries out. When that happens, your crankshaft goes with it...

Yes it should be covered in the TM's
 
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