Mr4btTahoe
Active member
- 121
- 67
- 28
- Location
- Indiana
Tank sealed... Now to wait.
Attachments
-
65 KB Views: 19
-
35.6 KB Views: 18
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
The S7 switch is what is stuck. The button in the center doesn't move and open the contacts as it should (at least that's how I think it works). I had it unhooked to set the running point gap.. which is when I noticed that it wasn't moving at all.If the starter is "stuck", try inspecting/testing/adjusting the S7 switch. That is the switch you have disconnected. That is what Chainbreaker ment by start control I think. The TM's are your best friend.
The load bank I'm putting together is a 220v setup utilizing 3 - 4500w heater elements. I may pick up a couple lower wattage elements just to dial in the load for different units. They will all be connected to a breaker panel and each element can be energized individually.Sounds like you got it running pretty well. BTW, I recall some older threads on adjusting the "start control switch assembly" that might help with troubleshooting your starter switch freezing. Just do a Forum search and you should find them.
Did you remove the bolts holding the air cleaner housing in place or are they missing? Didn't see the cannister vibrating though.
Be careful how much load you pull through the convenience outlets. IIRC, they don't come off both legs and can create an unbalanced gen head load if too much load for too long possibly causing overheating in the gen head windings.
Once you get it all dialed in and ready for battle you need a good 220 V stepped load that you can work up to a full load to put it through its paces.
Good job so far!
Thats the way it should work. Have you read the TM on adjustment? If not, then its kinda hard to get it right. Yep, you can pull it out and clean it up. But reinstall it IAW the TM, then adjust it. Every once in a while they go bad, but TEST before tossing it.The S7 switch is what is stuck. The button in the center doesn't move and open the contacts as it should (at least that's how I think it works). I had it unhooked to set the running point gap.. which is when I noticed that it wasn't moving at all.
I need to pull it off and clean it up on the bench.
Correct. I was attempting to adjust it as per the TM. I set the contact to barely touching with the engine off. Started the generator and the contacts never moved. Disconnected the switch and adjusted to .040" while running as per the TM. Shut down and contacts never closed. I'll pull it apart sometime this week.Thats the way it should work. Have you read the TM on adjustment? If not, then its kinda hard to get it right. Yep, you can pull it out and clean it up. But reinstall it IAW the TM, then adjust it. Every once in a while they go bad, but TEST before tossing it.
MGB. Its a customer of mine. His dad has a Sprite. I rebuilt the Sprite last year and am now going through the MGB front to back. I turn wrenches on the side.Not a bad paint job and looks refreshed and better than the one it came with. Color on my screen looks Shamrock Green! Maybe going to be a lucky genset for you!
By the way, is that an Austin Healey Sprite I see sitting behind it in the last picture?
Of course. The kill a watt meter. Always.Given the MEP-002/-003 transducers that feed that hertz meter are prone to failure I would lean towards trusting the Kill-A-Watt meter.
For about $10 you can replace the Transducer with the new model OEM transducer that Light In The Dark recently posted here.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!