New to me MEP 802a

[csmitty]

Hey guys. So an update to my 802a. Got oil and filter changed out. Got the primary fuel filter off barely. Mangled the **** out of it. Secondary still not sure how to get off. Either way I drained the old fuel and filled up with fresh. Got two new injectors in and primed the fuel system. Took a few cranks but it fired right up! Engine speed was still set perfectly at 60Hz and right on 240V. Oil pressure was good. DC volts looked good. Got up to temperature with no load and it all seemed fine. I hadn't done the quad circuit mod yet, goal was just to get running this weekend. I also checked the convenience outlets and had 120V on both.

Before I started it the CB1 fuse was reset.

So after running for a few mins I hit the panel light switch and it shut down the engine. Then I had no action from the S-1 switch. But the CB1 fuse hadn't pop'd. I haven't gone through the troubleshooting manual just yet but figured I'd give an update and see if anyone had something quick to check. My S10 Dead Crank switch does have power. So I guess my CR1 and HT4 must still be functional.

Video of it running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bygqwjxr8sI

 

[Guyfang]

Look at the back side of the panel lights. Are the wires still hooked up? Not broken off and touching the side of the set? Did you reset the fault indicator? If not, the set will not run. Any idiot lights, (fault indicator) on? Do you have 24 volts at the S-1?

 

[csmitty]

Look at the back side of the panel lights. Are the wires still hooked up? Not broken off and touching the side of the set? Did you reset the fault indicator? If not, the set will not run. Any idiot lights, (fault indicator) on? Do you have 24 volts at the S-1?

I'll double check. But they still appeared hooked up, and worked the first time I hooked the battery up. I never got a fault indication. I'm not entirely sure if the fault module works. Never tried it the first time. However it did start and run after resetting the CB1 on the first time I tried. I do not have any fault indicator lights on at this time. I do have 24V at the S-1 on 2,4,6,8 when in the off position. However when switched to any other I lose 24V all the way back to the CR-1.

 

[csmitty]

Well. Was def. the CR1. Got 20 of them in and clipped one side and then the other just fell off right off so wasn't soldered very well. Put clips on the new one and all was normal. Fault indicator worked fine, panel lights were fine and started right up. Now I gotta fix the fuel coming out of the injector bore. Guess it didn't get inserted all the way.

 

[Guyfang]

You sir, are making progress!

 

[csmitty]

Thanks. Getting there. Will get the A1 fuse in and then hook it up to a load and see what happens.

Heres the crappy soldering job.


Testing.

 

[Guyfang]

Crappy solder job, but unless you are good at it, it is hard to solder in there. I unscrewed the board and pulled it out to get at it easyer.

Also, the standoffs, are very sensitive to heat, so do not hold the soldering iron on the terminals tooooooooooooooo long. They tend to break off easy.

 

[csmitty]

Crappy solder job, but unless you are good at it, it is hard to solder in there. I unscrewed the board and pulled it out to get at it easyer.

Also, the standoffs, are very sensitive to heat, so do not hold the soldering iron on the terminals tooooooooooooooo long. They tend to break off easy.

Thanks. So I guess you just open up the zip ties and undo the terminals to get the board at? Not mind doing it as I'd like to do it right.

Also got the quad winding fuse installed. Cut it so I didn't need any wire. Was close, but worked.


My fuel return lines were also leaking, they had clamps on them previously and I got it where it wouldn't leak. But going to replace it all anyways. That got me going through the parts list and I noticed that there was a washer under the injector, possible heat shield I'm guessing. Not positive mine has that. I pulled the injector that had the leak before I realized it was the return and it seemed like it had a taper at the bottom of the hole. Not 100% positive as it was a quick look but I also don't want to burn up my new injectors either. Is this is a common thing to go missing during repairs? I was hoping to hook it up a load in the next few days to give it a run.

 

[Guyfang]

Whats the engine parts TM show for a picture? And yes, under the injector should be a copper washer, it memory server me right. Often, people lost said washer, when they pulled out the injector, or, even worse, didn't look to see if it was in the hole, and added another washer!

 

[csmitty]

Whats the engine parts TM show for a picture? And yes, under the injector should be a copper washer, it memory server me right. Often, people lost said washer, when they pulled out the injector, or, even worse, didn't look to see if it was in the hole, and added another washer!

Thats what I'm looking at. $25 a piece to. Sheesh. I haven't been able to verify if mine are there or not. Might not be able to until early next week but we'll see.

 

[csmitty]

So its hard to tell if I have a washer in there or not. I ran a pick along the inside edge to see if I could feel seam but I didn't. Also not sure if the washer is supposed to be copper or steel. I got a magnet in there and it appeared that the shoulder pictured was steel. I scrapped some soot off it and it seemed to have a silver color to it. I thought I found a picture of the washer online but I can't find it anymore. Anyone bought one of those washer recently and know what material it is?



Terrible picture but it was the best I could do given the circumstances.

 

[Guyfang]

Should be copper, if I remember right.

 

[Korgoth1]

They make injector bore brushes, or you could use a barrel brush. Just make sure its brass.

 

[Korgoth1]

The washer will be available from your local hose house for a few cents. Be sure and inspect your injector clamp, and where the clamp interfaces with the block. I had one that just wouldnt seal, turned out the clamp had been overtightened, after being loose and vibrating for many hours, it wore the tangs down just slightly. New clamp and it sealed right up.

 

[csmitty]

Well. I surely didn't have the washers in mine. I'll definitely be sure to note the dimensions on these as they were a little more than a few cents. Amazing what they charged for what it is. I was expecting a bit more. But whatever, lesson learned. I'll check the clamps as well next time I fire it up and see if it's leaking.