New truck, carburetor symptoms?

[Milbikes]

I put a new set of batteries in my new M37 today. They are brand new, charged, good sized. Cables clean and tight. It turns over, but not as fast as I would expect for a low compression flathead with lots of cranking amps.

I had a gravity feed fuel tank direct to the carburetor. It started right up, and I got it to idle nice. As soon as I put any demand on the engine, it would stall out as if starving for fuel. Then it would not start UNLESS I let it sit for a few minutes. Then, it would start right up again.

When it was warmed up and running better, I drove it from where I dropped it off, to my driveway.

The fuel line from the fuel pump was placed in a glass jar to catch/inspect the output. It only put out about two tablespoons of rusty looking fluid. I had just put three gallons of fresh fuel in the tank.

The old in-line plastic fuel filter showed signs of rust colored dust. The outside om my tank looks really good. Looking down the neck looks really good.

I found this carburetor in the trunk of my command car when I bought it. It still has lead 'flaming ball' seals on safety wire on the screws. Is this a WC carburetor, or M37?

Looks like I am going to drop my tank, clean it, seal it, replace all the (probably) rusty fuel lines, Are the fuel pumps easy to rebuild?

Ah, the joys of a new old vehicle. H.

 

[Baron3-6]

Yes, that carb you've got is an ETW1 for an M37. You can get a rebuild kit, or do a core trade for a refurbished one for around $200. It may sound pricey, but having one that's almost factory new makes a big difference.

As for the fuel pump, see here for all info on rebuilding:
Matt Gieselman | M37 Fuel pump rebuild

I put my old GI one on the shelf and replaced it with a Carter M847 ($62). It has worked very well, has the glass sediment bowl, which combined with the plastic in-line fuel filter gets the crap before it gets to the carb.

If I remember correctly, the fuel line is the standard 5/16" steel line you can get at Napa or AZ.

One thing I discovered from members here was that the fuel fill cap when locked all the way down (fording position) can cause a tank vacuum that won't let the fuel flow. Make sure the cap is a backed off one notch to let the air vent in.

Don't forget the lead substitute! (sure you know this as you own a command car)

 

[foxtrk2]

have to add something i ran into with my 37 every trip i took with it i had to replace fuel filter to get et home surprise to em finnaly took out fuel pick up tube and low and behold there is a filter on the end of it in the tank inside the filter the pickup tube had rusted so bad ti would block the end fo th etube with rust fron inside the filter the scale from the tube itself i replaced the pick up tube [65.00 ] hasnt missed a beat since just a possibility foxtrk2

 

[WarrenD]

You'll want to replace anything rubber all along the fuel supply route as the ethanol will reduce it to mush. Fuel tank filler hose and vent hose, fuel tank gaskets (up top, one each fuel pick-up and gauge sender), anything in the carb and the diaphrams in the fuel pump. From what I hear, the best pump rebuild kits are from Then and Now Automotive in MA, be sure to specify that it is an M37 dual action fuel pump (uses a smaller plate than the civie stuff). If doing the pump yourself, just be extra careful with the rod that goes thru the vacuum diaphram, it's easy to nick the rubber which will cause oil to leak past.

 

[Milbikes]

carburetor updates, gravity feed

I took my carburetor off today, and found a layer of fine sediment on the bottom. The accelerator pump leather was shrunken and the pump is frozen. But, the truck was running on a gravity feed tank......just.

I went through my original sealed spare carburetor. There is a little spring on the needle and seat needle that helps hold a little pressure against the seat. It is strong enough that the gravity feed tank would not overcome it! However, a fuel pump with sufficient pressure should. I guess I could remove that little spring. It appears that the float tab will still push the needle all the way closed when the bowl fills.

I would like to put a civilian fuel pump on the truck temporarily so I can move it around, while I rebuild the original pump. I have found conflicting numbers for the civilian pump to use. I have seen that the civy part number M847 is the one to use, but it shows up as a pump for a 251 engine. What should I ask for at Advance Auto? Thanks for any tips. H.

 

[Baron3-6]

The carter M847 will work, I have an original 230 in my truck and it fit in just fine. You will have to take the pump somewhere with a good selection of brass fitting adapters to patch it into your system. If I remember right, it has 3/16" fine female-female in and out hook-ups. I ordered mine here:

Carter GM847 - Carter Mechanical Fuel Pumps - Application - SummitRacing.com

 

[Milbikes]

Joy of "having too much stuff" as my wife sometimes puts it... I remembered that my Korean War vintage generator is 24V, and that it has an electric fuel pump on it, along with a regulator. So I took it off the generator, and put it on the M37. The truck fired right up. I took a bunch of laps around the property. Man, this truck is bouncy! But not harsh like my M1008 was. I ran through all the gears, 4WD high, 4WD low, everything works.

This truck may be a little too rugged for my use.... I think I might be better off with an M1008 or M1009. I liked the M1008 that I had, but foolishly I sold it.

I will have to give the M37 a try on the road to really get a feel for it though. I am sure that having old shocks, old (really old) tires, no brakes, and not enough sleep last night impact the ride and feel of the truck. It sure is fun/easy to work on so far. And the more I look at it, the better the style looks to me. Ah..decisions, decisions.

Video of truck here: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKElW2fqy84&context=C3ee7689ADOEgsToPDskI4L_f0Z4aoyWYkt6ysaT2e[/media]

 

[1958 M274]

If you still want to get a mechanical fuel pump for your truck, NAPA M2090 will work. I just used one last week on a Chrysler 230 in another application. It was $47.48, and has a sediment bowl fuel filter made on the pump. Inlet and outlet are 1/8" NPT, so you should be able to use the fittings out of your old pump.

It's an Airtex pump, and the Airtex part number is 587, should you want to see if another parts store can get one for you...

M37s are great trucks, good luck with yours!