New Wolverine Tech Centrifuge

[harleyrkc]

I just got my Wolverine Tech centrifuge from Tim. The centrifuge is awesome but the inline electric heater that I had planned on using failed on the first go around. I ordered an M-67 drum heater that I'll try this week sometime. But I'm wondering what everyone else is using to heat WMO.

 

[amaverick88]

i dont have one yet but i have noticed most people use some sort of heater for the barrel. whether it is a barrel band heater or modifying the barrel to accept a water heater element. you could also use a convection method and let the power of the sun heat it up but that would be more in the summer since you are in michigan.

 

[Ferroequinologist]

It probably failed because you don't get enough flow through it when going into a cecentrifuge.

 

[harleyrkc]

Success!

Last night I unpacked the M-67 immersion heater I ordered from Old Grouch's and put it in a barrel that I recently took the top off. I was a little leary of putting a gasoline fired heater into 45-50 gallons of WMO, but it worked out perfectly. I started out a little slow while I got used to operating the heater but I eventually was able to run about 40 gallons through the new centrifuge.

I brought the barrel up to 215*f for about 30 minutes before I started the fuge. The average temp measured on the outside of the fuge was 165*, though it cooled to around 120* by the end of the run. I cleaned it out after I was done and removed roughly two or three measuring cups of sludge like material. I'm so glad I didn't go with a miniature fuge. The 10" bowl is awesome and if I find a way to more efficiently heat the oil without having to monitor it, I'll consider upgrading to the 13" bowl.

The oil is still somewhat black to look at but if I pour it into a cup and then pour it back out there's no visible solids left int he container. I this stuff clean enough to pour in the duece now?

 

[TexAndy]

I don't know. Not knowing just HOW clean oil gets after centrifuging is the primary obstacle to me shelling out the cash for one.

 

[kipman]

It is cleaner than What I have been running for 3 + years.

 

[cbvet]

I've never heated the oil (or diluted it) before filtering. Of course I do my filtering in the summer.
No problems using "bag" filters.

 

[harleyrkc]

I'm quite sure after seeing what I removed that even though the oil is black to look at, its considerably cleaner then it was before. And I'm quite sure I don't want any of the crap I removed being run through my engine.

The one thing I noted that has me convinced this works is that when I take sample, pour it into a clear cup, and pour it back out, there's no residue left. It just looks like I poured any new oil only darker. The oil is not cloudy, the water has been boiled out, and the color is consistent all the way through.

 

[wreckerman893]

I'm working on a wood fired one using an old gas water heater. (see pics)

Having been singed several times by the old immersion heaters in my young enlisted Army days I have to give you the "Oversized Testicles" award for using it.

Post pics if you have them.

 

[harleyrkc]

I'm working on a wood fired one using an old gas water heater. (see pics)

Having been singed several times by the old immersion heaters in my young enlisted Army days I have to give you the "Oversized Testicles" award for using it.

Post pics if you have them.

Let's leave my testicles out of this. I actually have found it quite safe so far. Though it scared the **** out of me the first time.

 

[G-Force]

Harley,
If you really want to know how clean the oil is, run it through your centrifuge again. I'm really curious as to how much more solids you'll remove.
And if you could, post pictures of your centrifuge and any solids that do get spun out.

 

[harleyrkc]

G-Force just picture a very grease like material caked about 1/2" thick on the side of the bowl. And its stays suspended there, so its fairly thick. I'll try to put up picks this week if I can get some more oil to run. Im finishing about 75 gallon right now but its dark out.

 

[tennmogger]

Does the 'fuge take water out of 'milky' oil?

thanks

Bob

 

[harleyrkc]

Does the 'fuge take water out of 'milky' oil?

thanks

Bob

It did remove some water while I was running it cold the first night. But what really removes the water in the process is heating the oil over 212*f. The water starts to form dirty white bubbles around 208* - 210*, and by about 215* the water is pretty much boiled out. By the time its been cooked and ran through the fuge its very constitent with no clouds or debris. I was quite surprised to look in the bottom of barrel I boiled it in and find as much debris as I did too.

 

[stampy]

Having done this for years now I can tell you you don't have to heat it above 160 deg for the water to fall out. My setup has an upside down barrel with a drain in the 3/4 top bung hole and the run valve welded in about 2" from the"bottom" drain. Then I cut the bottom of the barrel out and found a lid that covers it well. Once it has been uniformly heated the water falls to the bottom and can be drained off, along with some of the heavies. The centrifuge catches the rest. YOU CANNOT REMOVE LARGE QUANTITIES OF WATER WITH A CENTRIFUGE ALONE, Unless your bowl is freakin huge. Heating above 212 deg will work but can burn the oil and the water actually boils off which can be dangerous (ie spatter). The black is Ok I run a blended WVO with a little WMO and diesel so it runs nice in my Benz and m1009 and deuce. I use an electric barrel heater for mine so it's a little safer (no exposed flames) as mine is semi close to the house.

 

[harleyrkc]

Stampy whats the water look like when you draining it off the bottom? Is it discolored or does it come out somewhat clear? And how long do you keep your oil at 160* to seperate the water? I'm still learning and experimenting cause this is all new to me.

 

[stampy]

It actually comes out somewhat clear, tinted somewhat...but you can tell it's water. As soon as the oil hits 160 deg because from 120-160 water is falling out of the oil. When draining you will see the difference between the water and the oil. I always drain into a plastic container so I can drain off a little oil and later separate it. The 2" separation between drain and run shut offs allows more water (and sludge) to fall to the bottom of the barrel and eventually be drained out. I have run a lot of this successfully.

 

[stampy]

Oh from what I have noticed this blend runs better than tank diesel as my Benz runs better (quieter and smoother) than on pump diesel.

 

[Chief_919]

Last night I unpacked the M-67 immersion heater I ordered from Old Grouch's and put it in a barrel that I recently took the top off. I was a little leary of putting a gasoline fired heater into 45-50 gallons of WMO, but it worked out perfectly. I started out a little slow while I got used to operating the heater but I eventually was able to run about 40 gallons through the new centrifuge.

I brought the barrel up to 215*f for about 30 minutes before I started the fuge. The average temp measured on the outside of the fuge was 165*, though it cooled to around 120* by the end of the run. I cleaned it out after I was done and removed roughly two or three measuring cups of sludge like material. I'm so glad I didn't go with a miniature fuge. The 10" bowl is awesome and if I find a way to more efficiently heat the oil without having to monitor it, I'll consider upgrading to the 13" bowl.

The oil is still somewhat black to look at but if I pour it into a cup and then pour it back out there's no visible solids left int he container. I this stuff clean enough to pour in the duece now?

Glad that M-67 heater worked for you. We are selling more and more of them to guys using them for WMO and WVO.

You can run it on diesel as well, or a diesel/gas blend. I find using diesel gives me a little more piece of mind running them. One of my customers is running them on whatever mix of old fuels they drain from cars at the junkyard.

Using diesel makes it a tad harder to start, some guys running straight diesel "prime" them with charcoal lighter.

 

[harleyrkc]

The M-67 was extremely spooky to light the first time. But after having ran it a couple times I'm comfortable with it. I use the primer cup to get the draft started but I use a small hand held torch to light a very slow drip to light the actual heater. I've had flashbacks or scary lightings, and the draft keeps the flame moving in the right direction very nicely. It controls quite well and I just monitor stack temp for safety reasons.