Newbie. Generator Questions

[jwaitesatl]

Good evening. I am the proud owner of a new to
me 1987 hmmwv.

I am am going through everything and so far I'm thinking glow plugs. And a regulator. The generator is out of alignment (cocked forward) and only one belt of the two is on. It's squeals bad anything above idle. I need to re align (any hints) and install another belt, that looks like a lot of fun. I think he regulator is bad because the voltage meter is pegged in the red when its running but the generator is funny looking. Can y'all help me id the generator I have and the regulator I need if y'all think that is it

thanks in advance. By the way I got it registered and licensed I georgia !!
hoping the pics work. I'm on my phone.

 

[dmetalmiki]

OK..I just posted a welcome to your last post..You could have added "And" then followed with this information. That generator looks somewhat bent out of alignment to me..But yes it is a correct item. Take it off, straighten any 'offending' mountings and you should be good at that point.

 

[Mjvaden]

I am About an hour away from you In madison GA. Drop me a PM and shoot me your number I have plenty of extra generator brackets here.

Mike

 

[gcbennet]

I'd say pull the gen and inspect the rear mount that's cast into the body. They can snap right off leaving the forward bolts taking all of the weight.

 

[NDT]

Yikes if your voltmeter is pegged to the right, the alternator's internal regulator is shot. Disconnect the excite wire before you smoke your start box! These 60 amp alternators are proving to be quite unreliable and typically take the start box out when they fail high unregulated volts. Most of us will recommend upgrading to the 200 amp alternator. You know what HMMWV stands for, right?

 

[dmetalmiki]

"humungus mighty wide vehicle"

 

[jwaitesatl]

Wow. Thanks everyone !! I appreciate the help. So. Internal regulator means not repairable? Mike I'll reach out to you and see what you have.

Thanks a lot guys !

 

[155mm]

It looks like it is sitting forward about the width of the spacer washer. I am wondering if someone put the spacer washer on the front side of the alt. bracket instead of the back. Will go find a TM photo of what is correct. Item 12 is what you are looking for. It should be between the rear bracket on the alt and the alt. mounting bracket, you will new learn cuss words if this is your first time putting the washer in. The washer IS required or you will break the rear ear off the alt.

Also if you are taking the bolts out anyways to get the spacer off the front, I suggest taking off the alt. and taking a good close look at the alt. bracket, specifically the power steering pump adjustment slot, looking for cracks.

The internal regulator is repairable by replacement. EZ fix. Scroll down to post #4 of the thread below, it shows how to replace the voltage reg. You can skip the first step, its not need for just a regulator replace.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...I-got-stupid&p=1783910&highlight=#post1783910




Looks like the hole is stripped on the top front also. That should only be a bolt that mounts from the back thru the bracket into the alt.

 

[155mm]

Ok, I am finished editing my last post.

 

[jwaitesatl]

Ok, I am finished editing my last post.

Thank you!!! Lots of studying to do. I'll keep you posted !


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[gcbennet]

I have a spare 60A bracket in excellent shape available if you need it.

 

[gcbennet]

I would also recommend installing the QD on the fan drive hose. Makes it easier and cleaner to change belts, remove the rad stack, etc.

 

[155mm]

What did you find was the problem?

 

[kc5mzd]

The belt on the drive pulley is on the inside groove (just like on the gen) It looks like you could just add a second belt? You would need to replace both at the same time so they are the same length as belts stretch over time. Be sure to check the voltage with a different meter. If you over charge the batteries they WILL explode!!! Plastic lead and sulfuric acid everywhere and all over everyone in and around the vehicle. If you get lucky enough, the high voltage may cause something else to burn up first and just leave the engine inoperable.

 

[Wahoo777]

when you had it licensed did you us the Montana title or sf97?

 

[NormB]

I would also recommend installing the QD on the fan drive hose. Makes it easier and cleaner to change belts, remove the rad stack, etc.

I've seen references to this mod., but no specifics that I can find, easily, without wading through dozens of pages of threads...

Do you have a parts list for this?

Thanks.

Norm

 

[papakb]

The quick disconnects are made by a company called Aerovantage Controls. Here's the CAGE code information on them. You can Google them or contact them directly for sales locations.

2116 Dunn Rd. [map] Hayward, CA (California) 94545 Alameda County / Region United States

Phone (510) 887-3132

Fax (510) 887-3133

Their part number for the QD is 12342042

Kurt

 

[Wire Fox]

I've seen references to this mod., but no specifics that I can find, easily, without wading through dozens of pages of threads...

Do you have a parts list for this?

Thanks.

Norm

Hey, that's something I can provide. Just did this over the weekend. The main piece is 4730-01-399-0241, PN 12342947-this is the quick disconnect unit. In theory, any hydraulic quick-disconnect should work, as long as it is 1/8 NPT female threads on both ends. You also need a new hose, NSN 4720-01-394-3747, PN 12338591-1. Last piece you need is a brand new fitting on the fan clutch assembly since you've changed thread types. Officially, it says you need NSN 4730-00-278-3721, but ordering this part had me receive the exact same as the old part. While that could have just been an error on the seller, I ended up taking my QD fitting and old fitting to NAPA and just picked up one that fit correctly. It SHOULD have been a 1/8 x 1/8 NPT straight adapter, but for some odd reason, that didn't fit well. I'll pull the part number I purchased when I get home.

Most importantly, make sure you use an appropriate liquid thread sealant with teflon in it. This should be a good substitute for what the military calls for on all fuel, hydraulic, and coolant fittings: https://www.permatex.com/products/t...nts/permatex-high-temperature-thread-sealant/

 

[NormB]

I'm printing this page for reference.

Over the past couple hours - between patients - I've been googling various combinations of "HMMWV + quick disconnect + MWO + fan clutch" and the winning combination was: "HMMWV AND fan clutch AND quick disconnect"

Which led me here: http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/engine/fanremove.html

Which referenced this: TB43-0001-39-3, Dec 94 which is a dead-end, only TM found, not TB, and it's for cartridges.


The details you've provided are of inestimable help.

Thanks.

Norm

 

[Wire Fox]

I'm printing this page for reference.

Over the past couple hours - between patients - I've been googling various combinations of "HMMWV + quick disconnect + MWO + fan clutch" and the winning combination was: "HMMWV AND fan clutch AND quick disconnect"

Which led me here: http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/engine/fanremove.html

Which referenced this: TB43-0001-39-3, Dec 94 which is a dead-end, only TM found, not TB, and it's for cartridges.


The details you've provided are of inestimable help.

Thanks.

Norm

Parts, drawing, and assembly instructions are all in TM 9-2320-280-20-3, page D-74 and D-75.