newbie got her home!

[jblueep]

Wow. Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm out of town this weekend, but next weekend, I'm going open her up a bit and see what I've got as described above. I"ll keep you updated. Any other suggestions are welcome.

 

[Desert Rat]

Greg and Kenny have hit my thoughts square on! Yes the injectors are under the covers!!!! I advised a hand crank with a cheater or breaker bar. One NEVER tries to pull start an unknown truck because of the damage factor. Save the engine and take your time! I did this with the TD6 I just got. I removed the plugs and hand cranked the shaft with my breaker bar to see (1) if she was loose and (2) if there was hydrostatic lock. (1) she was and (2) there wasn't. That saved me from making a six ton block of steel. Plus with the covers off the Come-a-part and the injectors cracked, if not removed, the ability for the engine to lube itself is greatly diminished, not to mention getting diesel into the oil. Remember, you have plenty of time to do the job right. DON'T RUSH IT!!!! It's never worth rushing into and creating more problems than you already have.

 

[jblueep]

I'm going to take it really slowly for sure. I'm in no rush.

 

[redchief]

We have had excellent results with "KROIL" this stuff really frees up piston rings. Almost as good is "Rust Busterr which comes in a yellow/red/black spray can. Have freed many engines with this stuff. Spray liberally into cylinder chambers. Let sit a day. If u can get access to flywheel use a bar and try wedging in place and rock flywheel both directions. First attempts may barely move. Spray daily with oil and rock daily. This motor will free if not damaged or terribly pitted from water in the bores. Also its helpful to have a buddy turn the crank from the front with a big breaker bar & pipe on the harmonic bolt>BE CAREFUL THEY CAN BREAK so only assist from here Not full pressure!

 

[vtdeucedriver]

When you pull the injectors, to check for fluid in the cylinder. Find a friend in the medical field. Have them get you a 60cc syringe and put a small hose on it and suck it out. Then you can make sure that your fluid free before attempting to spin it over by hand.

 

[jblueep]

I actually have a 60cc syringe. I used it to bleed my clutch master cylinder on my Ford pickup. If you ever bled one of those, you would know why Great idea. Thanks.

 

[doghead]

I suggest that you remove the valve covers and inspect for obvious, stuck valve-train to eliminate valve-train damage,(from corrosion after sitting so long). I have seen a stuck valve stop a motor from turning over before. Force, will result in bent valve-train for sure if a valve is stuck in it's guide or on its face. After that I would remove the injectors and try to turn it over with little force. Next, I would remove the oil pan an inspect each piston to cylinder wall for a stuck piston (just try to wiggle them, you'll feel them move if there free. Then check the rod to crank for the same wiggle. And lastly try the crank for wigglage! With this process you can quite easily get a good overview of your whole engine and find the problem that is holding the engine stuck now. The one thing you won't see or feel is the camshaft, It's my experience that it wont be stuck. AS for soaking the cylinders, CLR house hold cleaner will dissolve rust and Coke will work quite well. Also hot transmission fluid with 1/2 kerosene works ok.(Not quite boiling! the thermal shock helps) Be careful and don't use too much force!

 

[jblueep]

Awesome. My Dad is the real mechanic, so when everybody who wants to has put their input in, I'm going to print this post out as a guide, and he and I will go through step by step. Thanks again.